Zumber Posted December 30, 2010 Posted December 30, 2010 H all,it would be appreciated if anyone have proper prime for this blue star.kno3-50cuco3-25pvc-20dextrin-5to increase colour depth I have just balanced the kno3,pvc,cuco3 ratio in composition...found in this forum....I use nano3 prime...i heard that PVC produces hydrogen chloride gas. It also works well in combination with magnesium, where the HCl gas reacts with the metal oxides in the colored flame to improve the color. Addition of 5% coated mg will washes out the colour..??
dagabu Posted December 30, 2010 Posted December 30, 2010 While this prime is widely used for some hard to light stars, it too should have a BP prime over the top of it to maximize the fire potential though I use this alone on all of my non-AP stars. Fence-post primeEugene Yurek Potassium Nitrate 65 Charcoal Airfloat 12 Sulfur 10 Diatomaceous Earth 5 Silicon, 325 mesh 5 Charcoal, spruce, ball milled 3 Tare: Total: 100%
Zumber Posted January 2, 2011 Author Posted January 2, 2011 While this prime is widely used for some hard to light stars, it too should have a BP prime over the top of it to maximize the fire potential though I use this alone on all of my non-AP stars. Fence-post primeEugene Yurek Potassium Nitrate 65 Charcoal Airfloat 12 Sulfur 10 Diatomaceous Earth 5 Silicon, 325 mesh 5 Charcoal, spruce, ball milled 3 Tare: Total: 100%Thanks dagabu......what about my question on magnesium.??
dagabu Posted January 2, 2011 Posted January 2, 2011 Sorry man, I have not used just Mg yet as I dont want to play with pot ditch and dont trust Parlon.
Algenco Posted January 2, 2011 Posted January 2, 2011 Sorry man, I have not used just Mg yet as I dont want to play with pot ditch and dont trust Parlon. use linseed oil then
Mumbles Posted January 3, 2011 Posted January 3, 2011 castor oil will also works..... Afraid not. You need something that will dry or solidify around the metal granules to prevent corrosion or attack. Linseed oil polymerizes, and paraffin wax is a solid. Dichromate and other chemical treatments work by strengthening the surface oxide layer. Castor oil will remain liquid. While it may help, it will not provide a very durable or extended protection. I guess if you saponified it, it would become solid. Sodium Ricinoleate is known to be an extremely hard soap.
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