pyrochris732 Posted December 11, 2010 Posted December 11, 2010 I got a used tumbler and im doing some retrofitting on it. One thing I would like to do is clean the 2 pillow blocks that hold the idler bar, because the idler bar is very reluctant to turn easily. a few questions.. in the attached picture, is that protrusion at the top with the tiny lid for oil or grease? if so, what would i use in there? Also, its an old tumbler, so would buying 2 brand new pillow blocks (which arent cheap) be the better thing to do? do ball bearnigs wear out that easily so they have to be replaced? or do you think they just need a nice cleaning and re-greaseing?
hillbillyreefer Posted December 11, 2010 Posted December 11, 2010 I got a used tumbler and im doing some retrofitting on it. One thing I would like to do is clean the 2 pillow blocks that hold the idler bar, because the idler bar is very reluctant to turn easily. a few questions.. in the attached picture, is that protrusion at the top with the tiny lid for oil or grease? if so, what would i use in there? Also, its an old tumbler, so would buying 2 brand new pillow blocks (which arent cheap) be the better thing to do? do ball bearnigs wear out that easily so they have to be replaced? or do you think they just need a nice cleaning and re-greaseing? That picture makes it pretty tough to tell what we are looking at, but here is my guess. The nipple on top is for oil or grease. If underneath the cap there is a tiny cup you use oil. If under the cap is a ball shaped thing with a flat top and a tiny ball bearing in the middle it's a grease nipple. For lubricant any light grease would work well in a grease nipple, if the cup is an oiler I'd use ATF or any really light oil you have lying around. That pillow block looks like a brass bushing, not a roller bearing to me. If it were mine I'd try and loosen it up with some light penetrating oil, and then lube it up with some ATF, and let it run for a few hours empty or with a light load. While it's running keep lubricating it, those bushings will fill up with dust and possibly a bit of corrosion, making them a bit stiff, running them with lots of lube will help to loosen them up. If it is really stiff you could remove them and soak them in penetrating oil over night to loosen them up. A mix of 50:50 acetone:ATF in a sealed vessel, is my favorite. A better picture would help determine what you have. Anymore questions just ask. HTH
dagabu Posted December 11, 2010 Posted December 11, 2010 (edited) HTH has got it nailed but I like to use 3-in-1 oil on bushings since the ATF can "wash" the surface. I would consider grabbing a new set of pillowblocks since those are the cheapest ones made and can be prone to overheat under load. DODGE makes great L50 bearings that will last longer then you will live. What you have:http://americanhvacparts.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/PillowBlockSleeve.jpg What I suggest:http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/UCP.jpg Edited December 11, 2010 by dagabu
pyrochris732 Posted December 11, 2010 Author Posted December 11, 2010 HTH has got it nailed but I like to use 3-in-1 oil on bushings since the ATF can "wash" the surface. I would consider grabbing a new set of pillowblocks since those are the cheapest ones made and can be prone to overheat under load. DODGE makes great L50 bearings that will last longer then you will live. What you have:http://americanhvacparts.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/PillowBlockSleeve.jpg What I suggest:http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/UCP.jpg Thanks for the replies! Yup, that first picture is exactly what i have. But what is ATF? Id rather not spend another 20 bucks or so per set so i may just try to clean them. I guess ill try the 3 in 1 oil in the holes. Hillbilly, thanks for the reply. I will try to clean these things.
Algenco Posted December 11, 2010 Posted December 11, 2010 (edited) clean any buildup/crud from the bearing surface and use a thin oil, 3 in1 would be great Edited December 11, 2010 by Algenco
hillbillyreefer Posted December 12, 2010 Posted December 12, 2010 ATF is automatic transmission fluid. Like the others said 3in1 or any other good penetrating oil will work just as well.
mike_au Posted December 13, 2010 Posted December 13, 2010 If you know anyone that can order on a corporate account from a machinery supplier you might be able to get the bearings much cheaper. I walked in off the street and BSC quoted me about $40 or $50 / bearing+housing. My mate called up and got them for about $7 each.
dagabu Posted December 13, 2010 Posted December 13, 2010 Just eBay them to you. International rates are OK for small items like this.
marks265 Posted December 13, 2010 Posted December 13, 2010 I see there is a dent in the metal bearing shield this will cause a slightly rough bearing performance should you get them to work. That bearing has an oil cup, so a light machine oils would work and not a grease. I would use a motor oil if had had some. Clean the bearing first with any kind of a solvent, parts cleaner or even acetone or alcohol. Then by hand work in new oil when solvent has been removed or evaporated. I have recovered a few bearings doing this when I absolutely needed for it to work and some ran fine after that while others ran rough and eventually were replace. You might even want to try to soak them in a metal coffee can with a thin oil heated with a torch outside. An alternative would be a store such as Fleet Farm or hardware store carries shafting and/or bearings. Mark
pyrogeorge Posted December 13, 2010 Posted December 13, 2010 If you know anyone that can order on a corporate account from a machinery supplier you might be able to get the bearings much cheaper. I walked in off the street and BSC quoted me about $40 or $50 / bearing+housing. My mate called up and got them for about $7 each.It's too much..try to find from ebay you will find cheaper.Here in Greece i bought this for 5euro each.
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