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Good second star -- any suggestions?


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Posted

Hey APCers,

I recently graduated from fountains and cremoras to stars and mines. Mumbles gave me this comp as a good beginner star

 

Degn Spider Star

KNO3 - 15

C - 9

S - 2

Dex - 2

 

These stars are great! They don't need prime, they stream nice. What would be a good second star formula to try out? I'm looking for something to contrast the effect of these streamers so I can mix stars. I'm hoping to avoid poisonous chems. Any advice?

Posted
I like RG 2rolleyes.gif (formula and discussion is in the link) they work with out prime also and the only additional chem you need is spherical/atomised Al which is cheap. the barium containing versions would be poisonous but not supper bad here is a
Posted
Go with the same star, except now add 10% titanium, or sperical aluminum for a silver effect
Posted

Thanks guys. Up until this point I've kept my BP chems and my metals separate so this is an important step for me, I want to do it right. If I'm adding Ti, for example, would I screen the BP chems by themselves then combine the Ti and BP in a plastic container and shake to mix? Also, I've read that wet aluminum powder releases a flammable gas? i think? Is this irrelevant when mixed as a small percentage? In other words, now that I'm bringing metal into picture, what new safety precautions should I think about? I've got a +/- 350 mesh Al that is an industrial byproduct, so I imagine its been superheated and would cool to be spherical? Might this work?

 

 

Posted

Yes, screen and mix the comp as usual then add the titanium and mix it in.

 

As for the aluminum, usually a nitrate and aluminum would require boric acid in the comp. A prefered method is to have the dissolved acid in the water you use in the comp. In this case with relatively coarse spherical aluminum, there isn't much need. Any -100 flake aluminum or any aluminum under 50 micron you need to add the boric acid.

 

You NEED to be sure about what chemicals you are working with! If you don't know, just add the boric acid.

 

 

New safety precautions? Here you go: Imagine that at any time, and completely spontaneously your comp can ignite. Now take precuations on those assumptions.

Posted

As for the aluminum, usually a nitrate and aluminum would require boric acid in the comp. A prefered method is to have the dissolved acid in the water you use in the comp. You NEED to be sure about what chemicals you are working with! If you don't know, just add the boric acid.

New safety precautions? Here you go: Imagine that at any time, and completely spontaneously your comp can ignite. Now take precuations on those assumptions.

 

OK, that was my next question. I thought that KNO3 + Al + H2O + Minutes = unstable. So I could add a small amount of boric acid to a 2 parts water, 1 part sta-flow mixture and spray to dampen? Sounds like good safety guidelines ;)

Posted

OK, that was my next question. I thought that KNO3 + Al + H2O + Minutes = unstable. So I could add a small amount of boric acid to a 2 parts water, 1 part sta-flow mixture and spray to dampen? Sounds like good safety guidelines ;)

 

it really depends on your aluminium most normal glitter aluminium (spherical/atomised) is fine (unless your doing like a 10kg batch) and in some formulations (like those with sodium hydrogen carbonate) boric acid will do nothing. why use sta flow and not the traditional binders mentioned in formulas ?

Posted

why use sta flow and not the traditional binders mentioned in formulas ?

 

Well, I've never used dextrin. Not because I have a problem with it, its just that I learned to make bp with water and sta-flow and it has worked great, is equally compatable, cheap, and its a starch. Simple carbs are simple carbs.

Posted
try dextrin I think you will be pleasantly surprised at the hardness of the stars didnt you use it in the spider stars ?
Posted

didnt you use it in the spider stars ?

 

No. I added a zero to everything and omitted the dextrin. This left me with 260g that I wet with a little water, a tablespoon of sta-flow, more water, and a tablespoon and teaspoon of sta-flow. I'm happy to try some dextrin though.

Posted
I'm sorry I never got to your PM. Glitters are a nice next step from BP formulas. If you want something to pair with the charcoal streamer, I'm quite fond of purple. Both Yankie Purple, and Majdali purple are very nice.
Posted
No problem. I ask so many questions - I don't expect anyone to keep up with them. Hmm, Yankie Purple isn't yielding a quick search result, I'll keep looking and get back to you if I can't find them. Can I add 10% titanium to any black powder star formula? Like tiger tails? Also, most of the Ti I'm finding for sale is mixed with either Al, Fe or is large, like 10-30 mesh. Whats the deal with that?
Posted
OK, I found the Majdali, still haven't found the Yankie...
Posted

Phil is a great guy. Titanium isn't cheap in general, just so you're aware before the sticker shock.

 

http://www.ihaveadot...products_id=335

 

Yankie Purple:

 

http://www.amateurpy...kies-kp-purple/

 

Alright, I just purchase some Ti, redgum, and dextrin (just for you Ralph ;)) Phil's prices seem fair and I don't mind spending a few extra bucks for quality and customer service. I watched the vid of Yankie's purple and its, well, purple! I know camera's tend to make blues look purple, but it looks like exactly what I'm looking for.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Phil is a great guy... etc etc

 

Could I suggest you add ihaveadot to the supplier reviews page? (I found this thread while searching for reviews - he's one of the few who will put up with the ORM-D fuss to ship oxidizers to Alaska.)

Posted
i made some silvery white stars with 50% potassium perchlorate and 50% atomized aluminum. I pumped them with a 1/2 " star pump and they are amazing.
Posted
If you add 5-8 parts red gum or shellac for the aluminum the tail will get much longer.
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