dagabu Posted June 21, 2010 Posted June 21, 2010 Gunz, You can get almost perfect timing with visco wrapped with Al foil tape. Just make sure you cut the tape exactly the same length and wrap it square. I used visco until I found this time fuse and it worked very well. You will get a DAMN! shell some day but I cannot dunk a basketball, get a hole in one or shoot an arrow through and arrow, that all takes a lot of practice as does fireworks. One day my friend, one day
TrueBluePyro Posted June 21, 2010 Posted June 21, 2010 Will, Do you want my anvil shears? I made a plate style one and I no longer need the shears. Your plate looks very nice. Thats a nice offer, thanks It would be good to get some decent timing into all my hard work. I'll pm you.
Mumbles Posted June 21, 2010 Posted June 21, 2010 It is possible to roll microspolettes. Perhaps only 1/8 to 3/16" ID, and maybe 5/16" to 3/8" OD. With very small tubes, 1/16" is quite a stout wall. You should definitely be able to recreate the ring shells without a lot of trouble, but the spirals may require some practice. You'll have to drill them back of course to get accurate timing.
Cookieman Posted June 21, 2010 Author Posted June 21, 2010 If you want to have a look at mine, I use a different priming method and it lights everytime for me. http://truebluepyro.blogspot.com/I use a bambo squewer and apply a very thin coat of NC on the time fuse.Then I will dip the time fuse into some very fine mixture of small BP granuls, titanium and silicon. This takes fire very easily. I think this technique will offend the master! Trueblue, I just want to appologize for my criticism. After all, we are all here for the same thing ,and that is to learn. Again, my appologies and God bless.
dagabu Posted June 21, 2010 Posted June 21, 2010 (edited) It is possible to roll microspolettes. Perhaps only 1/8 to 3/16" ID, and maybe 5/16" to 3/8" OD. With very small tubes, 1/16" is quite a stout wall. You should definitely be able to recreate the ring shells without a lot of trouble, but the spirals may require some practice. You'll have to drill them back of course to get accurate timing. I cant see why that would not work. It may be difficult to ram them correctly due to the small surface area and get the same burn from spolette to spolette and the increments would have to be no more then 1/8" while pounding so that you get even consolidation but I think it it is feasible. I am a sucker for easy though so I will stick with time fuse and leave the spolette making to you guys. Edited June 22, 2010 by dagabu
dagabu Posted June 22, 2010 Posted June 22, 2010 ADENDUM: I made a 1/8" spolette tool (really its just a piece of 1/8" SST wire) and made one last night between sneezes and coughing fits, I did not bother timing it but the spolette burned just fine and I will be rolling rome tonight. One word of caution, when rolling the tubes from 2" kraft tape, start with a slightly larger rolling mandrel (9/64" drill bit works great) and make sure you coat it with something so the glue will release. I used a 4" long piece of kraft and it held up well to pounding the BP but I did not measure the wall thickness. Its too muggy to have them dry tonight.
Mumbles Posted June 22, 2010 Posted June 22, 2010 How thick of paper did you use? I have a tube rolling program I made to calculate all that fun stuff.
dagabu Posted June 22, 2010 Posted June 22, 2010 It's U-Line kraft 2" tape, no idea what the paper thickness is, no mic here at work Feels like 50# I stopped at 4" because it "felt" good. I think I would go with more tape for an actual shell but for testing purposes, I like 4". Oh, one more thing, I use a board to press and roll the finished tube. I start by rolling the tube in the direction it was rolled up and then roll back and forth just s short distance to bind the paper together. They are very tight and hard when dry.
Mumbles Posted June 22, 2010 Posted June 22, 2010 It calculates out to .045" wall thickness, a bit thinner than 1/16" (.0625"). ~1/22"
dagabu Posted June 22, 2010 Posted June 22, 2010 Could you do me a favor? What would a total of 1/4" (walls and center) across take in paper length? That way I could use my arch cutter, cap plugs to cover them and such Thank you!
Mumbles Posted June 22, 2010 Posted June 22, 2010 Going from 1/8" it would take 6.13". Going from 9/64 it calculates 5.6". It's rather odd there is such a big difference, but I suppose it is only the difference between a turn or two. Normally I add a little bit to these numbers. The calculation makes a few assumptions that are not perfect. On tubes this small, I may go 6.25" and 5.75"
Ventsi Posted June 23, 2010 Posted June 23, 2010 Talking about different types of timing I've been meaning of giving beraq inserts a shot, I just need to get the slurry right. And I have a salami with the last break being two rings of reports like th ones you guys have been talking about, only I use paper spollete tubes. I'm afraid the second will not light however.
Ventsi Posted June 23, 2010 Posted June 23, 2010 I did but I'm afraid it might have been too thin, I had some left over from the shell and was lighting them(yes, safely) and on some the prime just burned right off. We'll see how they turn out. Also the first ring used a better quality time fuse do that might have contributed to the lower quality stuff looking bad and me expecting it would light.
karlfoxman Posted July 8, 2010 Posted July 8, 2010 The beraq slurry as a starting point for first noise is around 200g Black Powder 10g Gum Arabic. This is 5% and what I use. Be aware that this will give short delay of around 0.4 seconds, use 1.4mm hole and two turns of card for the liner :-)
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