Ground Salutes

[Piccaso]

I heard somewhere you could get a relatively quite 70/30 and an intense flash by diluting the comp 25% 70/30 and 75% sawdust. Tempted to try maybe on rocket header.

This was not meant to be used as a header. The thread you are referring to was for producing large amounts of light for photography purposes while making as little noise as possible. This comp was not meant to be confined at all. It was also suggested to back way off on the oxidizer to make it extremely fuel rich with as little as 20% oxidizer. That was the only purpose of the discussion. While you can try it I doubt you will get what you expect.

[ronmoper76]

i agree with the story about not using glue around the fuse hole. My grandfather was nuts about fireworks till one year he lit a m80 and it went off in his hand instantly because of flash being all over the fuse. He was lucky and didnt lose any fingers,but he was hurt pretty bad... dangerous shit

[mx5kevin]

Videos, tests, descriptions, my regularly updated blog for high quality firecrackers and ground salutes. Results after 15 year research to make the best firecrackers and ground salutes:

 

Testing flash powders for homemade firecrackers

 

Testing flash powders for homemade firecrackers and ground salutes: KNO3, Ba(NO3)2, NaNO3, Sr(NO3)2, KClO4 and others. Much more powerful catalyzed flash powders with sulfur.

 

The 2 best flash powder for ground salutes:

 

The KClO4 based flash powders for ground salutes: Used a 50:50 mixture 3-7 micron dark aluminum+ 30 micron blue aluminum to get big flash effects. With KClO4/Al/S 50 40 10% (Does not need to use boric acid) and Ba(NO3)2 KClO4 Al S 30 30 30 10% (Need to coat the aluminum with 2% H3BO3) .

 

With effective 400 mesh magnalium alloy 50:50 can be replaceable the aluminum but need to coat it with 4% boiled linseed oil the Mg/Al and dry it.

 

About sodium silicate paper tubes from copy paper what are ideal for ground salutes.

 

Meter-sized bigger flash effects, and extreme loud sound with product specific flash powders specially for ground salutes and firecrackers.

Edited May 9, 2022 by mx5kevin

[Richtee]

Honestly, nothing you tested, vaunted, or vouched for matters much. A classic Vitamin F mix is all that’s required in the “dark art” of booming. WHY do people fixate on this? It’s child’s play. Not literally of course.

 

I’d rather have an authentic Kolbász recipe

Edited May 10, 2022 by Richtee

[Carbon796]

Fixated . . . They only spent, 15 years trying to make a firecracker . . . Edited May 10, 2022 by Carbon796

[mx5kevin]

Honestly, nothing you tested, vaunted, or vouched for matters much. A classic Vitamin F mix is all that’s required in the “dark art” of booming. WHY do people fixate on this? It’s child’s play. Not literally of course.

 

I’d rather have an authentic Kolbász recipe

 

 

Fixated . . . They only spent, 15 years trying to make a firecracker . . .

 

I'm tested the existing most all known flash powders what used for firecrackers. It takes a lot of chemicals. And they are product specific flash powders. And I learned to prepare it in the most efficient way flash powders. Where I come from in Europe of high quality firecrackers the most popular pyrotechnic devices. For firecrackers here the extreme 60 KClO4 30 Dark Al 10 Sb2S3 are basic. The KClO4 Al 70/30 where I come from are weak for firecrackers. Here it is extremely loud and extremely bright firecrackers has a history. Without firecrackers and ground salutes here have no homemade pyrotechnic. From KClO4/Al 70 30 and poor quality paper tubes with weak end plugs are only weak imitations compared to a product specific catalized composition (with metal powder, ratio). Who does not have pro chemicals KClO3, KClO4, Blue, Dark, firefy, homemade Al, Sb2S3, Na2S2O8, KmNO4, Sr(NO3)2, Ba(NO3)2, BaSO4, KNO3, homemade Mg, 400mesh professional Mg, Mg Al (homemade and 400mesh buyght), Etc. And not working for years large amount of flash powders. And have a product in this hobby which is his specialty. It is not provided with similar knowledge in the current theme who not make several years some products. What most people do put a paper tube standart mixtures like a 70/30 KClO4 Dark Al. And she has no idea what the difference when used catalyst, how much catalyst, how to change a ratio, the difference in metal powder particle size (how to mix it correctly), what is a product specific composition, exact effect of additives like Ti, H3BO3, Linseed oil Etc. Low quality standards i will not public in flash powder, and firecracker, ground salute theme. I have a reference that is not an unknown somebody write in to this theme. Since 1997 I'm a big fun of high quality firecrackers, and the key is high quality firecracker on which my generation has grown at 1980-1990s years. In video blogs, blogs my work is transparent. I would like to see a similar transparent publication from colleagues. It is a requirement for me to see who is commenting on the topic what level of practice he have in making the specific pyro product.

Edited May 11, 2022 by mx5kevin

[SharkWhisperer]

 

 

 

I'm tested the existing most all known flash powders what used for firecrackers. It takes a lot of chemicals. And they are product specific flash powders. And I learned to prepare it in the most efficient way flash powders. Where I come from in Europe of high quality firecrackers the most popular pyrotechnic devices. For firecrackers here the extreme 60 KClO4 30 Dark Al 10 Sb2S3 are basic. The KClO4 Al 70/30 where I come from are weak for firecrackers. Here it is extremely loud and extremely bright firecrackers has a history. Without firecrackers and ground salutes here have no homemade pyrotechnic. From KClO4/Al 70 30 and poor quality paper tubes with weak end plugs are only weak imitations compared to a product specific catalized composition (with metal powder, ratio). Who does not have pro chemicals KClO3, KClO4, Blue, Dark, firefy, homemade Al, Sb2S3, Na2S2O8, KmNO4, Sr(NO3)2, Ba(NO3)2, BaSO4, KNO3, homemade Mg, 400mesh professional Mg, Mg Al (homemade and 400mesh buyght), Etc. And not working for years large amount of flash powders. And have a product in this hobby which is his specialty. It is not provided with similar knowledge in the current theme who not make several years some products. What most people do put a paper tube standart mixtures like a 70/30 KClO4 Dark Al. And she has no idea what the difference when used catalyst, how much catalyst, how to change a ratio, the difference in metal powder particle size (how to mix it correctly), what is a product specific composition, exact effect of additives like Ti, H3BO3, Linseed oil Etc. Low quality standards i will not public in flash powder, and firecracker, ground salute theme. I have a reference that is not an unknown somebody write in to this theme. Since 1997 I'm a big fun of high quality firecrackers, and the key is high quality firecracker on which my generation has grown at 1980-1990s years. In video blogs, blogs my work is transparent. I would like to see a similar transparent publication from colleagues. It is a requirement for me to see who is commenting on the topic what level of practice he have in making the specific pyro product.

Your extensive experimentation would benefit from quantitative comparisons of sound and light output. Without that it is difficult to compare the outputs of different flash comps. Consider a decibel meter, a device to measure light output, controlled conditions, and a high-speed camera to discern detonation/deflagration differences. Then you could turn your blog into a book that would have a lot more value. Appreciate your wide experimentation, but also appreciate that salutes are only a small part of the total pyrotechnic arts in many/most parts of the world.

[chuckufarley]

More flash=bigger boom. Need we say more? Edited May 12, 2022 by chuckufarley

[mx5kevin]

Making a quality black powder, and quality flash powder from KClO4, and fine powders, and high quality firecrackers and ground salutes the homemade setup hardest part. Learn at these making at high level at years at learning, and required costly special tools. Making smoke bombs, rockets, shells, fountains, stars crackling colored etc, roman candles, small devices are much more easy and can be learned in a few months. That here on the forum or on Youtube, or another forums in high quality firecrackers can make most of the people this is a huge mistake. From KClO4 get extreme sound, huge flash effect only the most experienced can. The others make weak firecrackers, from KClO4 small effects, and most of them using the standard multi purpose and not product specific mixtures. Meters more longer lasting flash effects possible the same products. There are drastic differences in sound. And a very narrow elite can do that, can make high quality products with real extras. It is not mandatory for anyone to deal with all aspects. Or making pro shells rockets etc, to suit others in the community. The work of the members must be transparent for others. Who gives advice there to be seen how much a particular person deals with a particular thing. He has to know that particular thing highly. How much everything other else he put together it does not matter. Truly professionals don’t go to anyone to answer their questions. They make blog, videos, documents, who are very good at what he does they are talking. No one cares about a non-professional, personal opinion. Who can do professionally add to the theme. It doesn't work anywhere on forums. Certain interests shatter the topics. Anyone who wants to learn has an interest in being shown who can do it a professional way how to make it. Those who pursue this hobby at an exceptionally high level are a very narrow layer. And that makes it even harder if someone make the metal powders, KClO4, charcoal etc at home.

Edited May 12, 2022 by mx5kevin

[mx5kevin]

An important thing a lot of people don’t think about when looking at factory used basic flash powder compositions. The maximal sound are limited in the factory setup. In mini firecrackers under 0,3g are using the most powerful flash powders. And as the size increases, weaker flash powders are used. The same is true in shells, rockets, bombettes, comets. To the most strongest flash powder their all used sulfur or Sb2S3 catalyst. In the European mini and normal green mach crackers when the flash are burned can smell the characteristic sulfur dioxide. KClO4 Al Sb2S3 60/30/10 in high quality factory setups are frequent. There is no such limit at home. For boosters too worth to use sulfur or Sb2S3. Cheap and increases performance a lot and minimal the sensitivity. Witch the users can find in public compositions the are not the most powerful ratios. And the first important question is what it is used for. The are multi purpose use flash powder in a factory setup what used in shells, rockets, bombettes, comets like the KClO4/Al 70/30. It is better to use stronger base flash mixtures at home. There are ratios in other compositions that are not worth deviating from like BP, WM, Stars, but flash powders an exception where product specific using are the best. In factory setups, and public books they not described as the most powerful flash powder compositions for this products. Which is really powerful are restricted or banned to use. Which is very good quality but time consuming, or costly not worth to make the factory setup. Pyro shops like Skylighter publications the compositions they are over complicated and use unnecessarily expensive and complicated chemicals in many case.

Edited May 12, 2022 by mx5kevin

[Crazy Swede]

mx5kevin, why do you call sulfur and other sulfur containing species for catalysts?

 

Is there any evidence that they are true catalysts in a classical sense?

[mx5kevin]

mx5kevin, why do you call sulfur and other sulfur containing species for catalysts?

 

Is there any evidence that they are true catalysts in a classical sense?

 

It is acting like a catalyst, but unlike a real one, is used up, burning into sulfur oxides. Sulfur increasing the rate of the chemical reaction the flash will be faster, the FP will be more brisant. Highly recommended to use all flash powders sulfur or Sb2S3 where power is the point like firecrackers, ground salutes, boosters. Where too many of them are used for salutes or firecrackers, those recipes are not good. If too much are used, or too high the ratio compared to the metal powder will slow down the mixture, and and significantly degrades the bright metallic effect. Example patent CN 200510057003 50 30 20 KClO4 S Al are crap. Just make a 400 mesh Mg S 4:1 ratio without any oxidizer and burn it. Burns fast and have a deep sound (without any oxidizer). It increases the performance of almost all flash powders. Sulfur powder is cheap and very effective. For the small very strong, loud, extreme bright firecrackers 0,3g and under, always using the factory setup sulfur based component. None of them was a standard KClO4 Al 70/30, or KClO4 MgAl 50/50. When the flash powder was burned always can smelled the characteristic sulfur dioxide. One of my visitor once said my 1,5g KClO4/Al/S 5/4/1 (with 6-7 µm dark Al) triangle (polumna) firecracker are louder than the original M80. This combinations with KClO4 are much more louder, stronger, than a KClO4 Mg 50:50. For the strongest most brutal factory combinations for flash powders are using KClO4 Metal Powder (Al, Mg/Al most common) and Sulfur or Sb2S3 used. The KClO4 are the king of flash powders, K, Sr, Ba, nitrates and most of flash powders only weak imitations for ground salutes, firecrackers. In my county we called this flash powders catalyzed flash powders. And sulfur,Sb2S3 components catalysts for flash powders.

Edited May 18, 2022 by mx5kevin

[Richtee]

 

It is acting like a catalyst, but unlike a real one, is used up, burning into sulfur oxides. Sulfur increasing the rate of the chemical reaction the flash will be faster, the FP will be more brisant.

I read somewhere that the “loudest” powder was Shimizu Thunder #3. It contains S, Al, and KClO4. Also works for small caliber rifle targets.

 

But technically this should not really even BE DISCUSSED here. It is taken to be an HE topic as far as I thought.

[mx5kevin]

I read somewhere that the “loudest” powder was Shimizu Thunder #3. It contains S, Al, and KClO4. Also works for small caliber rifle targets.

 

But technically this should not really even BE DISCUSSED here. It is taken to be an HE topic as far as I thought.

 

Shimizu Thunder #3. cools and slow down the composition with too much sulfur. It uses too little metal powder and too much sulfur or Sb2S3. Significantly impairs the flash effect the low metal powder and too close sulfur or Sb2S3 ratio. Shimizu Thunder #3 with sulfur used for reduce costs in that factory setup. With Sb2S3 the composition are much more better, but for this mixture are too much. For booster to rockets headings, and ball shells, and bombette are important to burn at hot temperature the flash powder. A KClO4 Al Sb2S3 60/30/10 or KClO4/Al/S 5/4/1 are much way better than the Shimizu Thunder #3. Shimizu Thunder #3 not a good flash powder. In salutes and firecrackers, that's not the point to use the possible fastest flash with the possible finest metal powder. For booster important to burn at hot the flash to ignite the stars and other comps. For salutes the metal powder cannot burn too fast in the air or the flash effect will be poor. There is a limit at which you use magnesium, aluminum, magnalium with sulfur or Sb2S3 they will all be equally strong. Aluminum is the safest, compared to magnesium and magnalium have no advantage at this point. And making a blue Al:Dark 50:50 similar to a 400mesh magnalium effect for salutes but much more safer. In the case of KClO4 it reduces the flash effect time because it is too strong. Above that (deflagration speed) limit the flash ball effect, titanium sparking effect and other effects are unenjoyable. There is a flash group KClO4 with Mg, MgAl, Al, with Sulfur or Sb2S3 when the fastest ratio used there is no point in comparing them witch was the most powerful. Magnesium and magnalium will be worse than aluminum in terms of safety with KClO4 are not worth it. Sb2S3 will be unnecessarily costly. If the (deflagration speed) is reduced by a mixing of KClO4 and, Ba(NO3)2 the ball flash effect burning time a little more time sustainable in salutes but its size decreases. For booster KClO4/Al/S 5/4/1 (with dark Al) are burn hot.

Edited May 18, 2022 by mx5kevin

[Uarbor]

You can build pyro items and use them on your own premises the same day. If you build pyro

items and store them you need to have a licensed and approved storage magazine. If you own

a black powder rifle or black powder cannon you are allowed to have 50 pounds of BP on hand

for hobby purposes.

Transporting pyro items on public roads requires proper license and permits for this activity.

Most of my Pyro building is done during licensed club shoots on remote sites.

I know this is an old post but the law specifically says 50 lb of "commercial" black powder not home made.

[Carbon796]

That is true, and only reloading, and/or historical reenactment purposes. Once it's used for fireworking, that loophole is null and void.

 

The building and shooting in one day is only for federal regulations. Local regs superced them. And, are often far more restrictive.

[Richtee]

That is true, and only reloading, and/or historical reenactment purposes. Once it's used for fireworking, that loophole is null and void.

 

The building and shooting in one day is only for federal regulations. Local regs superced them. And, are often far more restrictive.

I really oughta get me a black powder rifle. Least I’d have that going for me

[LoveKnowledge]

Hello everyone! I havent been on in a while so I thought Id come back with a bang ( no pun intended ). Ground salutes interest me and before anyone goes crazy, yes Ive worked with BP before and made fountains, rockets, and stuff. I wanted to try and slowly try FP, and I have researched it extensively. So heres what Im thinking of doing- I want to make a small ground salute (no more then 3g of fp). Im going to buy anti static spray and de-static every thing in my work area. To mix I will use the diaper method. My questions are as follows- Is hot glue a bad idea when glueing paper end caps? Once the salute is made, does it still pose a hazard of igniting spontaneous? What kind of humidity should I attempt this in?

 

Anyway Im going to use the 7:3 ratio Patassium Perc. and Indian aluminum. Only 3 grams though so the correct amount would be 2.1g of potassium perc. and 0.9g of indian aluminum. Im not crazy scared of FP, I respect it. Im not a kewl trying to make some FP bombz. Thanks to everyone who helps in advance!

First of all allow me to start like this I do not recommend you do this, it is against the law most places and can get you in a lot of trouble if you have any more then 50mcg in a single device and no license you can be federally charged for making explosives (here in the USA) also if you are not careful my ladies co worker's brother just died in Hawaii from making some a few days ago, thats actually what got me on these forums, and social media groups etc i normally shy away from stuff like this.But after that I feel I need to share my experiences to help people stay safe, I have been making ground salutes for years since I was a Kid taking apart piccolo petes trying to make "m80's" that being said please stay legal and above all safe, this is my experience.

 

I personally never use hot glue, have seen the tip set off powder more then once, on any closed end or compressed projects (salutes) i Use wood glue for the ends and make them the day or night before holds better then HG (the better the hold and the thicker the walls the more "pop" never use super glue even for the fuses it heats up I use wood glue there aswell)and its a lot less dangerous you just cant use them for at least an hour for the wood glue to dry and if i were you id switch up the indian head for some german super dark 5413h much more umph(German Dark Pyro Aluminum Powder 5413H Super - Fireworks Cookbook) a little of that stuff goes a LONG way compared to others I have tried and yes that would be the correct ratio 2.1g pot perc .9g alum. Just a heads up too if your making 1 3g salute its gonna be LOUD! straight like a grenade went off, if you use pot perc german super dark 1g is about the loudness of a "m80" and i never even hand press fp 1g is more then enough for full combustion in a closed tube. FP is relatively safe as long as you take precautions, BE sober, make sure your clothes are 100% cotton just in case, never make in wet weather/conditions, if you can, mix outdoors, wear proper ppe respirator safety glasses, wear welding or firesuit gloves while mixing(ngl i wear mine though out the whole process except i use nitrile for weighing mats) , precap one end so all you need to do is measure/mix fill and cap, PREDRILL all your fuse holes and drop in the fuses, NEVER leave premix around only make what your going to turn around and use etc its when people slack on safety, or become lazy and complacent when making them when accidents happen, not saying theres NOT those times you do everything right and it still goes wrong just saying most fp accidents are avoidable to a certain degree

 

Heres a example

Flash powder using two different Aluminums - YouTube

 

I normally dont do this but wanted to show you 1g is more then enough

1g 70 30 pot perc 5413h

https://youtube.com/shorts/JXZl6JNsLIo?feature=share

3g 70 30 pot perc 5413h

https://youtube.com/shorts/xZRf2z7Kqbc?feature=share

 

Wow I just realized the start date of this

Edited June 12, 2022 by LoveKnowledge

[Uarbor]

First of all allow me to start like this I do not recommend you do this, it is against the law most places and can get you in a lot of trouble if you have any more then 50mcg in a single device and no license you can be federally charged for making explosives (here in the USA) also if you are not careful my ladies co worker's brother just died in Hawaii from making some a few days ago, thats actually what got me on these forums, and social media groups etc i normally shy away from stuff like this.But after that I feel I need to share my experiences to help people stay safe, I have been making ground salutes for years since I was a Kid taking apart piccolo petes trying to make "m80's" that being said please stay legal and above all safe, this is my experience.

 

I personally never use hot glue, have seen the tip set off powder more then once, on any closed end or compressed projects (salutes) i Use wood glue for the ends and make them the day or night before holds better then HG (the better the hold and the thicker the walls the more "pop" never use super glue even for the fuses it heats up I use wood glue there aswell)and its a lot less dangerous you just cant use them for at least an hour for the wood glue to dry and if i were you id switch up the indian head for some german super dark 5413h much more umph(German Dark Pyro Aluminum Powder 5413H Super - Fireworks Cookbook) a little of that stuff goes a LONG way compared to others I have tried and yes that would be the correct ratio 2.1g pot perc .9g alum. Just a heads up too if your making 1 3g salute its gonna be LOUD! straight like a grenade went off, if you use pot perc german super dark 1g is about the loudness of a "m80" and i never even hand press fp 1g is more then enough for full combustion in a closed tube. FP is relatively safe as long as you take precautions, BE sober, make sure your clothes are 100% cotton just in case, never make in wet weather/conditions, if you can, mix outdoors, wear proper ppe respirator safety glasses, wear welding or firesuit gloves while mixing(ngl i wear mine though out the whole process except i use nitrile for weighing mats) , precap one end so all you need to do is measure/mix fill and cap, PREDRILL all your fuse holes and drop in the fuses, NEVER leave premix around only make what your going to turn around and use etc its when people slack on safety, or become lazy and complacent when making them when accidents happen, not saying theres NOT those times you do everything right and it still goes wrong just saying most fp accidents are avoidable to a certain degree

 

Heres a example

Flash powder using two different Aluminums - YouTube

 

I normally dont do this but wanted to show you 1g is more then enough

1g 70 30 pot perc 5413h

https://youtube.com/shorts/JXZl6JNsLIo?feature=share

3g 70 30 pot perc 5413h

https://youtube.com/shorts/xZRf2z7Kqbc?feature=share

 

Wow I just realized the start date of this

I think three grams was the original standard. I don't know how much was in the ones I used to get when I was a teenager but they would leave a bare patch of no grass for at least 10 in around where they went off.

[Richtee]

 

 

 

Wow I just realized the start date of this

The “start date” of this is when the old time amateur pyros wanted to enjoy their hobby without persecution. I’d venture 1968, with the gun controls enacted, there was also a fireworks provision. “ M-80’s” became a federal offense. You were probably not born at the “start date” of the issue. Hell, I was 5. And remember the old school M. We only got the “Black Cats”. Blood blisters if ya messed up, fingers intact.

Edited June 19, 2022 by Richtee

[mx5kevin]

Fort the real high quality and high powered extreme bright and safe ground salutes, firecrackers the flash powders are limited to KClO4 based flash powders. Everything else will be either dangerous or weak. Which is similar in strength are the KClO3 what are not safe. There is no other alternative. It is also a waste of money, and time to look for a similar alternative. KNO3, KMnO4, Ba(NO3)2, Sr(NO3)2, K2S2O8, Na2S2O8, NaNO3, NH4ClO4, BaSO4, tested with Mg and Aluminum to with/without sulfur Sb2S3. All of them week imitations of a KClO4 based flash powder. And the winner was KClO4 Al S in power, effect, safety stability, cheapness, etc all in one category. With KClO4 the Mg/Al and Mg not worth it. In the course of more than ten years of research, I examined the possibilities where in forums, videos etc they said claimed to know something similar. All these claims have failed. They are all childish weak imitations compared with KClO4. In miniature 0.1g firecrackers they are just crap and weak, but with KClO4 are excellent. Anyone who wants and a real fun from high-quality firecrackers, ground salutes, boosters need KClO4. A true fan has no other alternative in long term. More flash powder=bigger bang are not true. On lower-quality compositions, the difference can be strongly felt in all sizes. In Europe, the Germans, Poles, Czechs, in Balkan countries people are used to real, blindingly bright, brutally loud sharp sound firecrackers. The homemade firecrackers they are made differently than another countries where they did not meet these firecrackers. The Chinese, Indian, firecrackers are very poor quality boring imitations for these firecrackers. Everyone promised everything on forums and videos, but they all failed because the basis for long-term comparison was missing from all of them. And an important thing the method of producing, ratios, the mesh size of metal powders, the tube parameters, the paper, used glue. Who wants high quality firecrackers, and he is serious about the hobby don't search alternative for KClO4. To whom it is not worth it use KNO3 Mg S, If it is weak KMnO4 and other above written oxidizers are not to offer a real solution in the case of power. Which has an outstanding white bright light are Ba(NO3)2 based flash powders, but in power there is no real intermediate solution.

[mabuse00]

mx5kevin,

I just skimmed through your text...

SharkWhisperer is right.

At some point many of us did such kind of comparisons.
IMHO it's very difficult to judge the results as there often is a critical area of size and confinement at which mixtures go "high order". I dont mean high order in the sense of HEs, but in the sense of quick acceleration and runaway.
And if it works, doing measurements is really scientific work.

Magnesium should not be used at all. It's attacked by air contact alone and especially when very fine contains much oxide.
Not worth the trouble. I found that particle size is not very critical here, even not to small drilling swarf worked.

One very big issue for us few remaining Europeans in the future might be the chloride content in homemade (per)chlorate.
I wonder if it's even possible to get this clean enough so that metals are not quickly massacred when in contact.

KNO3 Al S I find them very weak for firecrackers

 

50-25-25 works very nice. 10g in a rather mushy spiral wound tube gives a powerful concussion that is hardly to distinguish from Perc based stuff.
Minus the shattering power, if your stars are hard, you can literally fill shells up with that stuff. If you want maximum noise that is. Beware of moisture, this stuff can heat up!

 

[mx5kevin]

mx5kevin,

 

I just skimmed through your text...

 

SharkWhisperer is right.

 

At some point many of us did such kind of comparisons.

IMHO it's very difficult to judge the results as there often is a critical area of size and confinement at which mixtures go "high order". I dont mean high order in the sense of HEs, but in the sense of quick acceleration and runaway.

And if it works, doing measurements is really scientific work.

 

Magnesium should not be used at all. It's attacked by air contact alone and especially when very fine contains much oxide.

Not worth the trouble. I found that particle size is not very critical here, even not to small drilling swarf worked.

 

One very big issue for us few remaining Europeans in the future might be the chloride content in homemade (per)chlorate.

I wonder if it's even possible to get this clean enough so that metals are not quickly massacred when in contact.

 

 

50-25-25 works very nice. 10g in a rather mushy spiral wound tube gives a powerful concussion that is hardly to distinguish from Perc based stuff.

Minus the shattering power, if your stars are hard, you can literally fill shells up with that stuff. If you want maximum noise that is. Beware of moisture, this stuff can heat up!

 

 

Magnesium powder must be coated with 5% linseed oil (and completely dried to get a hard strength coating) and not will damaged at long term storage when mixed with other chemicals. This will not slow down the flash powder or reduce the power. And i does not find any negative effect in colored composition. This coating not working with NH4ClO4, there must be used K2Cr2O7 coating. See this in the Shimizu book. Uncoated magnesium powder must be stored in an airtight plastic bag. I using 2 Self Adhesive plastic bag pulled against each other from which the air can be completely expelled. Uncoated magnesium can not mixed with other chemicals, if mixed the degradation will be fast and the composition will be unstable. For fast and strong nitrate based flash powders need to use the possible finest magnesium powder. The difference in power in nitrate based flash powders with magnesium and aluminum are drastic. Most of nitrates with aluminum and sulfur are extremely slow and weak. They are the least suitable for firecrackers, ground salutes. Nitrates with aluminum are wasting of money and time for firecrackers. Aluminum powder must protect with 2% boric acid solution and dried if mixed with nitrates to protect it from unwanted heating up by moisture! Nitrates must be used with the possible finest magnesium to work it correctly. And all oxidizers with magnesium are much react more faster and reactive than with aluminum powder.

 

If performance is comparable in a KNO3 Mg, KNO3 Al S, flash powder and KClO4 Al and Mg al based flash powders and if someone says that they are almost same in power, there is something very wrong. A KNO3 Mg S are much more stronger than KNO3 Al S. And the difference by a KNO3 Mg S and KClO4 Al or Mg/Al flash powders by power are extreme. Buying chemicals for a KNO3 Al S combination for use it in firecrackers, ground salutes are wasting of money and time. It only works in large quantities and with terrible efficiency. A minimum of magnesium is required for this purpose. And it's not worth trying worser oxidizers what are weaker than potassium nitrate. This is a base under which the explosion performance will be undemanding.

 

The homemade KClO3 and KClO4 can be made completely 99,5% clean. What's in it is dirt can not made negative effects in compositions. This chemicals are purer than the buyght KClO3 and KClO4 and the quality closer to analytical pure than technical grade. If someone product is contaminated and see any effect in the compositions or can detect lot of contaminations with sensitive tests than he just doesn't know what he's doing. Chlorides, chlorates, sodium, sulfates the finished product cannot contain that much contamination to make effect in the compositions. I have never experienced anything like this.

 

KClO4 with Al (3-7 micron) will be the most stable. With Mg/Al 50:50 alloy (400 mesh) are much more risky but worth it too and a alternative. The magnalium like the magnesium must be coated with linseed oil. Magnalium with nitrates are weak for firecrackers. And magnesium with KClO4 are too sensitive and have absolute poor unenjoyable zero visual effect in ground salutes. Aluminum will be weak with nitrates, and the KClO4 with Mg will be dangerous and the visual effect will be poor in ground salutes. In longer term storage i not find any degradation in the compositions. For two years of storage there must be no visible quality deterioration in these compositions.

 

Currently, if anyone have problem purchasing KClO4 in the EU. One option is to buy NH4ClO4 (from the UK) and boil it with KOH. NH4ClO4 are not in the EU explosive precursors list.

Edited August 4, 2022 by mx5kevin

[mabuse00]

 

If performance is comparable in a KNO3 Mg, KNO3 Al S, flash powder and KClO4 Al and Mg al based flash powders and if someone says that they are almost same in power, there is something very wrong

Not necessarily. As I wrote, size and confinement...

Even if the energy output is a little lower - you wont feel the difference.

 

I did a test setup last year to use nitrate 50/25/25 with "preburning" bengal fire popular in European crackers.

The problem with the typical setup is that when you press the bengal composition in the tube without a bulkhead, once the composition burns through, there's not much confinement left, in the worst case you have almost an open tube in that moment.

 

With (Per)chlorate - no problem of course. With nitrate - hmm..

 

So I only glued a short piece of a fitting smaller tube behind the bengal composition, forming a diaphragm, reducing the id of the tube from 25mm to some 17 or so.

That was enough. The tube was of very low quality, spiral wound, maybe 2,5mm walls...

 

20g gave about the same report as perchlorate, hard to tell a difference.

 

I you where there, I bet you could not tell the difference.

 

 

 

 

The homemade KClO3 and KClO4 can be made completely 99,5% clean.

Did you or someone else ever do measurements to prove that?

I'm not questioning your statement, I'm just unsure.

 

 

What's in it is dirt can not made negative effects in compositions. This chemicals are purer than the buyght KClO3 and KClO4 and the quality closer to analytical pure than technical grade

My concern is (after KClO3 in KClO4 of course) KCl. Do you know how much KCl typical industrially produced stuff contains?

I agree that this "dirt" and KCl probably will have little to no effect in performance, but how about storage and attacking metal?

 

 

NH4ClO4 are not in the EU explosive precursors list.

That's because it's considered an explosive by itself

Even if it works out for you, it's not worth the attention it creates by the authorities. I would never recommend that to anyone.

[mx5kevin]

Not necessarily. As I wrote, size and confinement...

Even if the energy output is a little lower - you wont feel the difference.

 

I did a test setup last year to use nitrate 50/25/25 with "preburning" bengal fire popular in European crackers.

The problem with the typical setup is that when you press the bengal composition in the tube without a bulkhead, once the composition burns through, there's not much confinement left, in the worst case you have almost an open tube in that moment.

 

With (Per)chlorate - no problem of course. With nitrate - hmm..

 

So I only glued a short piece of a fitting smaller tube behind the bengal composition, forming a diaphragm, reducing the id of the tube from 25mm to some 17 or so.

That was enough. The tube was of very low quality, spiral wound, maybe 2,5mm walls...

 

20g gave about the same report as perchlorate, hard to tell a difference.

 

I you where there, I bet you could not tell the difference.

 

 

 

Did you or someone else ever do measurements to prove that?

I'm not questioning your statement, I'm just unsure.

 

My concern is (after KClO3 in KClO4 of course) KCl. Do you know how much KCl typical industrially produced stuff contains?

I agree that this "dirt" and KCl probably will have little to no effect in performance, but how about storage and attacking metal?

 

That's because it's considered an explosive by itself

Even if it works out for you, it's not worth the attention it creates by the authorities. I would never recommend that to anyone.

 

This is around ≈ 0.15g KClO4/Al/S 50/40/10. From 10g flash powder made 60 pcs firecrackers. Look at what did with the beer can and see the other tests. If you do the same without KClO4 or KClO3, then congratulations to you! With KNO3/Al/S it won't even work, no matter what ratio. See the sparks, how far they flew. And what was left of the paper tube. To make it work minimum a KNO3/Mg (400 mesh) required, but it won't even come close to that power. If hard to tell the difference from any KNO3 based flash powder the KClO4 based flash powder by power and sound there have a big problem in the product. Choosing a weak composition for the purpose, using unstable, friction sensitive, compositions with storage problems are all cause problems. What give similar power and sound to KClO4 are KClO3 what have friction, impact sensitivity and stability problems. I have not found an alternative to this in more than 10 years. Through KMnO4, Naps, NaNO3, NH4ClO4, etc everyone promised everything in the amateur groups, but these did not even come close that quality. For whom it is not good a KNO3/Mg/S by power, sound under KClO3 not worth to deal with anything, it will all be a dead end and wasted money+time. If there were an alternative, I wouldn't invest so much energy in KClO4. If the biggest favorite are extreme ground salutes, firecrackers, extreme flash powder the KClO4 are necessary and there is no alternative in the long term. For WM, and lot of other devices are indispensable component.

 

 

or

 

https://odysee.com/@mx5kevin:a/dorzsfejespetarda:c

 

or (Making mini match crackers tutorial video)

 

https://www.bitchute.com/channel/X6adxEKbK8Ky/

 

There is no difference between homemade and factory made KClO3 or KClO4, homemade are more purer. And does not have another effect in the storage. How do I know it's ≈99.5% pure? With lot of sensitive, and insensitive tests. With NH4ClO4 I measured it all NH4ClO4 are evaporated, what left behind all other contamination are under 0,5%. Used pharmacopeia pure KClO4 as control. HCl test, Silver Nitrate, storage, and lot of another tests. If it is prepared properly, the contamination is insignificant to make any effect in the compositions, like attacking the metal powder, or effects in the storage. It is pointless to assume that homemade KClO3 or KClO4 is worse. However, this is difficult to say because many people do unprofessional work!

 

Any incompetence during the processes will bring different negative results. Fireworks: The Art, Science, and Technique Takeo Shimizu 1996 a good book about metal powder protection. Above all, the professional literature, and transparent tests and videos, everyone claims everything in forums such a way that we don't see how much he dealt with the given thing.

Edited August 5, 2022 by mx5kevin