Ventsi Posted April 15, 2010 Posted April 15, 2010 Just a tip that I discovered by accident. If you roll out your patty and let it air dry for a bit it is MUCH easier to cut, the cut pieces dont stick to gether when being primed ,you can get nice perfect cubes etc. . Of course you shouldn't let it dry too long. That method was referenced back to one of Weingart's books too in one of the BAFN books.
jwitt Posted April 15, 2010 Author Posted April 15, 2010 (edited) Thanks for the tip Ventsi! That ought to really help...probably have to stay around and check it every few minutes since humidity, temp, etc are going to effect the wait time. One of these days I'm going to need some real reading material...after the 4th releases my wallet from its clutches. (Someone else better buy the 12ga shells for the clay bird contest this time around!!!) I was going to make a batch of Spider, but since it has similar ox/fuel proportions to chrys 6, in the name of variety, I decided to cut a batch of TT -1% charcoal +1% lampblack last night. (Wetted the small bit of LB with a spot of alcohol before screening it in) The second 1/2lb patty cut REALLY nicely. Got both roommates 1 night each of helper experience now! I let him wet the second batch- reserved some dry, he overwetted the mix, put in the reserve, and man the stuff worked great. Had that nice resistance when the slicer went in. I moved my hand under the patty/wax paper, he dusted the exposed insides of the cuts with prime. Then we just broke off tetris pieces and dropped the cubes in a bowl of prime then screened out the excess. I was worried that the higher charcoal content star would be crumbly, and it was, a bit, but it turned out easier to separate the cubes. Can't wait to test this one and see if my lampblack addition does anything good or bad. Also can't wait to properly dispose of the 12 pack box stuffed with gloves, wax paper, etc, all covered with (compatible) flammable material. It's in a safe place, but making me nervous. Gotta burn it soon and figure a way to improve my hazmat disposal procedure before the next batch. Edited April 15, 2010 by jwitt
Bonny Posted April 15, 2010 Posted April 15, 2010 . Also can't wait to properly dispose of the 12 pack box stuffed with gloves, wax paper, etc, all covered with (compatible) flammable material. It's in a safe place, but making me nervous. Gotta burn it soon and figure a way to improve my hazmat disposal procedure before the next batch. To keep it "safer" in storage before burning (or throwing away) wet it down and store it in a closed plastic bag, that will keep it wet and much less flammable.
jwitt Posted April 16, 2010 Author Posted April 16, 2010 (edited) Ah, good idea- plastic bag keeping things damp. I guess this wouldn't apply to stuff that contains metal powders that might react with water and heat things up Seriously though, this is a problem I didn't foresee. My town is getting serious about any sort of burning. We burned the sticks and branches from winter a couple weeks ago in the brick fire pit. 15 minutes into the fire, when it was almost totally out, up rolls a fire truck. We had to drag the garden hose out to squirt the ash pile. That threw a wrench into my overall plan that involved taking the beer box with gloves/paper/etc plus the beer box cardboard I use for screening etc. to the burn pit at the end of a day's work. I'm not too comfortable with throwing the stuff in the trash. I think what I'll do is spread out the pyro trash, hit it real good with the hose, and bag that. By then, most of the BP type stuff should be washed off. Maybe I can just cart it over to a buddy's who is free to burn in his yard. Being a beginner, I favor being overly cautious. Once I start dealing with barium compounds, antimony, and other more toxic stuff, well, maybe I'll only make those comps in the country at the main work site. Edited April 16, 2010 by jwitt
Recommended Posts