Mumbles Posted December 31, 2008 Posted December 31, 2008 Are you going to dryhop that bad boy? It probably just depends on how much hop is in there if you have an Imperial IPA or an american barley wine. Either way it sounds mighty tasty.
tentacles Posted December 31, 2008 Posted December 31, 2008 I'm probably going to use a hop tea to dry hop. I'll make up a quart of something frighteningly hoppy and pour it in there. I got a coffee press for x-mas so it'll be easy.
tentacles Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 Here's a thread that hasn't been bumped in far too long! I'm going to be brewing again soon, maybe next weekend, there's some guys that want to come over and help/learn too. But I just have to say, Bell's Hopslam is amazing! The aroma and flavor are magnificent, and the 10% ABV (or nearly so) isn't even noticeable. The flavor and aroma profiles reminded me strongly of the broken halo IPA, but with more ABV and IBU to back it up. FrankRizzo let me tag along down to the twin cities with him and we went to a fantastic bar called the Muddy Pig. TWENTY IPA's on tap - we'd arrived shortly after their Hop Fest, so there were a ton of pale ales and IPAs on tap. No complaints here! Also had a fantastic lambic on tap, and some other Belgians. Last time FrankRizzo was there, they mostly had belgian beers on tap. Like 40! And you know, I don't think they even had BMC on tap.
Mumbles Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 I agree. Hopslam pretty much dominates me in a good way. I've had a few 6 packs(kinda pricy), and a few bar bottles. They blow me away every time. Let me know when you guys go to MN. I might join you. It's sort of a drive, but I can always crash with TheSidewinder' cats again. It also should be noted that TheSidewinders' cats are some of the coolest I've met. They didn't even try to scratch my eyes out. That is a plus in my book.
lostfido Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 I agree. Hopslam pretty much dominates me in a good way. I've had a few 6 packs(kinda pricy), and a few bar bottles. They blow me away every time. Let me know when you guys go to MN. I might join you. It's sort of a drive, but I can always crash with TheSidewinder' cats again. It also should be noted that TheSidewinders' cats are some of the coolest I've met. They didn't even try to scratch my eyes out. That is a plus in my book. That or you could come over Nordeast and crash in my garage with my 130 lb Leonbereger!!!
TheSidewinder Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 Sure, come on over. I can get the couch ready for ya in no time. The cats would no doubt love another warm body to curl up with on these cold Winter nights. (I'll be sure tell them how much you worship them. That'll score ya some purr-points.) And since the kittens are now gone to new homes, you'd actually get some sleep. I seem to recall that, last time, Maggie gave you a cat-lick hairdo while you were sleeping?
crazyboy25 Posted February 11, 2009 Posted February 11, 2009 Just bottled 15 bottles of homemade plum wine. Probably not that great but no question it is wine. So now I have and empty 3 gallon carboy and a brewery store nearby and I was thinking about making another alcoholic beverage. Like I said I just made wine so I'm looking for something else. Parents don't like cider and my 500ml distillation setup means distilled spirits/liquors are out of the question. That pretty much leaves beer. So I have never made beer and I'm looking for a easy recipe that is not too bitter. I know beginners usually use malt extract but I would prefer to use actual malt as a store near me sells it. I was thinking about ale because it is apparently a little "fruitier" and sweeter. So I need a recipe preferably with step by step instructions (I think the brewery store might have some recipes for clones though...). I understand the basic process of brewing but I have no idea of the individual steps. Any help is appreciated.
Mumbles Posted February 11, 2009 Posted February 11, 2009 Are there any commercial beers you like, or styles you want to try? I could suggest quite a few. There is an Irish red ale I've been looking at trying. It's very simple, and I've heard good things. It wont be ready for St. Patrick's day unless you like really "green" beer. Basically just unmellowed. If you can wait until the middle of April to drink it, then you're good to go. FrankRizzo posted a really good Blue Moon clone not long ago. It's extract, but could easily be converted to grain. Also very simple. If you want to get into the German spirit, a Maibock or Octoberfest wouldn't be bad choices at this point in the year. If you want to stay on the lighter side of things there is the Munich Helles. It's no Miller or bud in terms of lightness, but it really hits the spot in the summer. The last three I mentioned are all (traditionally) lagers, but you can make lager type beers at ale temperatures, even with ale yeast. If you're looking for a bit fruitier or sweeter, a Hefeweizen might be up your alley. Quick fermenter, and it's best when fresh. Usually you will get some banana, and other fruit flavors, and some clove type of taste. The recipies can't be simpler either, plus they're delicious. The blue moon clone I mentioned (a belgian wit beer), would also fit the bill. You actually put orange peel and coriander into it. We can give you ideas all day. Just bring some to share the PGI. Make sure to do some reading about it. If you're going all grain, you'll need to do some reading about the various devices (mash and lauter tuns) that are required. You'll also have to have the ability to do full batch boils if going all grain in general. I think it's important to get the right yeast too, so do some reading about that.
tentacles Posted February 11, 2009 Posted February 11, 2009 I keep forgetting to post, brewed a new IPA on saturday, this one should be more along the lines of what I'm looking for.. Used like 6oz of hops in there, 1.5oz of Chinook for bittering, something like 68 IBU I think it was? OG was 1.060, a bit low from my expected 1.065, but that's okay. Put in plenty of aroma and flavor hops, and pitched SafAle S-05 at 68F, it's in the lagering box bubbling away happily. I can post the recipe if anyone is interested - it's pretty much 9lbs of 2 row and 1lb each of crystal 120L and 77L.. The 77L just because I had it on hand. Oh, and 4oz of chocolate malt.. It's kind of modeled after that imperial bock-thing I brewed not too long ago.
FrankRizzo Posted February 11, 2009 Posted February 11, 2009 (edited) Here's a good recipe if you're not looking for something with a real strong character, but instead want something that's easy drinking and not too bitter. It's a beer you can drink easily while mowing the lawn, or having a few (session beer). 5gal(US) Batch: 3.3 lbs. Gold liquid malt extract (Briess)1.25 lb. Alexander’s Pale Malt8 oz. Carapils8 oz. Crystal 10°L 1.5oz Goldings Hops (4.5%AA) (30mins)0.5oz Goldings Hops (4.5% AA) (5min) Wyeast 1098 (British Ale) or Safale-04 dry yeast If you've got a large enough pot, boil all 5 gallons of water. Bring the water to a boil. Turn the heat off, and add only the 1.25lb can of Alexander's malt extract. Bring the mix back to boiling, and add the 1.50oz of Goldings hops as soon as you see the first boiling bubble. Maintain boiling for 30mins, then add the 3.3lb of Gold malt extract and boil for an additional 5mins. Add the remainder of the Goldings hops (0.5oz) 2 mins before the end of the 5min session. This is called the late extract addition method. It decreases the boil time necessary and helps to avoid caramelizing your extract. If you can't boil the full 5 gallons of water, try to boil at least 3 and top-off with extra water at the end for proper hops utilization. Edited February 11, 2009 by FrankRizzo
crazyboy25 Posted February 11, 2009 Posted February 11, 2009 Thanks guys. Don't want a lager which is a plus since I read ales are easier to brew. What I'm looking for is a dark wheaty ale. Sorry I can't be more descriptive. I think I will ask around at the brew shop they are really friendly and always have plenty of advice.
Mumbles Posted February 11, 2009 Posted February 11, 2009 Sounds like a dunkel weizen to me. By definition it is a dark wheat ale.
Mumbles Posted February 13, 2009 Posted February 13, 2009 Do any of you guys know now the US variety of the traditional german/czech hops compare to their European counterparts? I was specifically looking into US Saaz, and US Tettnanger. I also saw Santiam recently around. I hear it's supposed to be very close to German tettnanger. I might pick some up, and give it a try.
FrankRizzo Posted February 14, 2009 Posted February 14, 2009 The US varieties of those two are typically higher in AA than their imported counterpart. The guys over on Homebrewtalk seem to think they are just as good if not better, and you can use slightly less for a given bittering addition.
tentacles Posted February 14, 2009 Posted February 14, 2009 (edited) Frank: I'm going to bring down a couple of those brews tonight, they're pretty tasty and they definitely pack a punch. In other non-news, I think that most recent brew has finished (Already) - the airlock activity is minimal to say the least, but there is still some krausen on top.. I figued I'd give it a few more days, maybe stick a hydrometer in there. What's a good amount of time to dry hop? I see lots of folks do it for 3 days, but is that optimal? Edited February 14, 2009 by tentacles
Mumbles Posted February 14, 2009 Posted February 14, 2009 Usually I see people dry hopping for around a week. I might pick up some US Saaz and give it a shot. At least the 2008 crop, both US and Czech actually have decent AA. 1.3% just doesn't fly with me. Might try to make a few pilsers. I've thought about an imperial pilsner too, but might go with Sterling on that.
crazyboy25 Posted February 22, 2009 Posted February 22, 2009 Well my all grain dunkel weizen is going along fine but I just finished transferring it from the primary fermenter (6 gallon bucket) to the secondary fermenter (5 gallon carboy) but there is still a significant amount of space left. I plan to boil water then cool it and add it to top off my carboy but I worry this will water down my beer. Is this the right thing to do? Are there any alternatives?
tentacles Posted February 22, 2009 Posted February 22, 2009 crazy: There's no need to add water, so what if it doesn't come to the top? I don't even bother with secondary these days. When I switched, I couldn't taste any difference, that's sure. This reminds me, though, it's surely time to dry hop that ale. 2oz of cascade, and maybe 1oz of Chinook...
crazyboy25 Posted February 22, 2009 Posted February 22, 2009 Thanks! Yeah I opted not to add the water. Some quick digging revealed a general agreement that it is better to have 4.5 gallons of good beer than 5 gallons of watery beer. I just thought I had to fill it up to prevent oxidation but I figure this will be all right.
tentacles Posted February 22, 2009 Posted February 22, 2009 Crazy: FrankRizzo recently made (two or three?) batches of that "EdWort's Apfelwein" that's so insanely popular on HBT.. except it smells like rhino farts while it's brewing and it tastes like *nothing* when it's done. We figure there's no accounting for taste, and the guys that freak out if their beer gets into contact with atmosphere while/after brewing are just crazy OCD bastards. Mine tastes fine, certainly.. and I have the lid off the WHOLE TIME(GASP!) while I'm racking it into the keg that I don't purge with CO2(LORD NO!). There's precious little need to make brewing any more complicated (or messy) than it already is, that's what I believe.
FrankRizzo Posted February 23, 2009 Posted February 23, 2009 There's a thread over on Homebrewtalk.com dealing with mash thickness that you guys might find interesting. Guys who are usually getting the standard 70-75% extraction efficiency are reporting upwards of 10-15% improvement by switching from 1.25qt/lb to a 2.0qt/lb grist ratio. I can confirm that it does make a beneficial difference. I brewed a partial-mash version of one of my favorite Midwest Homebrewing kits, Octane IPA, last Thursday and got 88% efficiency. My usual efficiency is around 77%, so this was quite nice. The thread: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/2qt-lb-mash-97302/
Mumbles Posted March 24, 2009 Posted March 24, 2009 If anyone is looking to get started with full wort boils, now would be your chance to pick up a nice stock pot. They had 60qt on there which I was going to buy today, but they ran out. I was hoping to get a head start on 10g batches. I got a 40qt anyway. The 28qt that came with my turkey fryer cuts it a little close at the start of the boil with batches that push the 1.050 or 1.060 mark. 10g should give me some breathing room. http://royalpalmeventsupply.com/index.php?cPath=23_57
crazyboy25 Posted March 25, 2009 Posted March 25, 2009 Nice find. Unfortunately my stove has an oven above the burners and I don't have an outside propane burner. I have head of people having boil overs in a matter of seconds but I boiled my wort in a five gallon pot with an inch or two of head space on full head and I didn't even get foam!
Mumbles Posted March 25, 2009 Posted March 25, 2009 The only time I've ever had a boil over was within about 5 minutes of adding the hops. It tries to boil over just once, and then I can effectively leave it to boil off on it's own until the next hop addition comes.
superman1451 Posted March 25, 2009 Posted March 25, 2009 Has anyone ever been concerned about using aluminum pots due to the reports of it causing alzheimer's? I've been told by multiple people, including the guy at the local brewery store, that if I can avoid using aluminum. So should I be concerned at all?
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