Ventsi Posted January 2, 2010 Posted January 2, 2010 This is a 2.5" two-break canister shell. First break was Glitter and Charcoal streamers.Second was granite and a ring of reports. Here is a picture before the two breaks got joined together: Here's the video: If you guys want all the specs and more construction pictures, just say so and I'll put them up tomorrow.
firetech Posted January 2, 2010 Posted January 2, 2010 Nice timing on the reports. How'd you make them?
dagabu Posted January 2, 2010 Posted January 2, 2010 Please! I would to get the skinny on those. I loved the reports too! D
Ventsi Posted January 2, 2010 Author Posted January 2, 2010 1 sec lengths of time fuse. The Chinese copy of the Jap. stuff. Glued into 1" long 1/4" ID tubes from pyro direct. 1/4 teaspoon 70/30 bright Al flash in each salute. I still have a bag full of these little fellas for another shoot. Man they are LOUD!
dagabu Posted January 2, 2010 Posted January 2, 2010 1 sec lengths of time fuse. The Chinese copy of the Jap. stuff. Glued into 1" long 1/4" ID tubes from pyro direct. 1/4 teaspoon 70/30 bright Al flash in each salute. I still have a bag full of these little fellas for another shoot. Man they are LOUD! Good for you! Is the time fuse working well for then? I gotta make some too. How did you prime the ends? D
Ventsi Posted January 2, 2010 Author Posted January 2, 2010 (edited) I prime them by dipping the time fuse in good BP/CMC/H2O slurry right after the fuse being cut at a straight angle. Prime should be a bit more runny than paint. I feel the water based prime works better by really adherng to the powder trail inside the time fuse. I only prime the end thats going on the inside. Then just slip them inside the tube using some PVA glue for a good seal. I'll throw up a small tutorial later today? Edited January 2, 2010 by Ventsi
dagabu Posted January 3, 2010 Posted January 3, 2010 I prime them by dipping the time fuse in good BP/CMC/H2O slurry right after the fuse being cut at a straight angle. Prime should be a bit more runny than paint. I feel the water based prime works better by really adherng to the powder trail inside the time fuse. I only prime the end thats going on the inside. Then just slip them inside the tube using some PVA glue for a good seal. I'll throw up a small tutorial later today? Please!
Ventsi Posted January 6, 2010 Author Posted January 6, 2010 Here it is. First I take on of these little tubes from PyroDirect , there are the red ones too, but I feel these are harder and better quality. I like using them since I can fit many of them in shells, and time fuse just slips right into them.http://www.pyrodirect.com/index.php?app=cc...amp;portrelay=1http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m100/asota_2006/P1080604.jpg Next cut it in half using your method of choice, there are many, pick whatever suits you best.http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m100/asota_2006/P1080629.jpg Next, I take my hot glue gun and seal up one end, don't put in too much, nor too little.http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m100/asota_2006/P1080638.jpg Make sure the "plug" is air tight and there are no holes or odd extrusions.http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m100/asota_2006/P1080639.jpg Next, secure your tube to a firm surface where it won't move around, when making a lot of these[50+] I bundle them up using a zip-tie. Here a simple clamp will do. You will also need a tiny funnel that will enable you to funnel in the flash powder inside the tube. I'm using a modified "Sharpie" piece attached to a funnel. Again, whatever works for you. http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m100/asota_2006/P1080640.jpg Next funnel in your flash/burst charge into the tube, gently tap the funnel to make sure everything falls into the tube. The amount you put into the tube is critical, too little and you might have a empty space , too much and you might have to compress the powder while putting in the fuse, casing a low quality report.http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m100/asota_2006/P1080641.jpghttp://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m100/asota_2006/P1080643.jpg Next cut a piece of time fuse, when doing a lot of these and if you're looking for accurate timing you need some sort of gadget to allow that. Next right after cutting dip one end in something like NC/BP or Water/CMC/BP, make sure you don't make a big ole' glob on there , just a coating,let dry fully.http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m100/asota_2006/P1080637.jpg Next put a bead of PVA/Wood glue around the side of the fuse , now make sure you don't get ANY glue on the ends of the fuse, you might ruin the chances of the insert working at all. Just pit it in the tube next and you're done! Just let it dry for a full 24 hours to make sure the glue sets properly.http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m100/asota_2006/P1080648.jpg Questions? Tips?
scarbelly Posted January 6, 2010 Posted January 6, 2010 Priming time fuse like that works well? I always thought you needed to cross-match... Well that will make life easier when i finally get time fuse
NightHawkInLight Posted January 6, 2010 Posted January 6, 2010 (edited) Very nice job! Good job on the salutes as well. Mumbles and I were just going over some time fuse tips n tricks, as well as discussing small salutes and inserts earlier tonight. Looks like you took the best parts of the techniques we were discussing and put them to use. Might I suggest ramming a wad of paper into the bottom of each tube with a dowel, then pressing it back slightly and filling the resulting cavity with hot glue for the plug. It will be much more consistent than attempting to plug the tube with nothing to stop the glue from running down the interior. Then the tubes can be let sit on end till the glue dries rather than burning your fingers trying to cool it as it looks like you have done. Edit: Or simply ram a clay plug for that matter. Edited January 6, 2010 by NightHawkInLight
Ventsi Posted January 6, 2010 Author Posted January 6, 2010 Might I suggest ramming a wad of paper into the bottom of each tube with a dowel, then pressing it back slightly and filling the resulting cavity with hot glue for the plug. It will be much more consistent than attempting to plug the tube with nothing to stop the glue from running down the interior. Then the tubes can be let sit on end till the glue dries rather than burning your fingers trying to cool it as it looks like you have done. Edit: Or simply ram a clay plug for that matter. Thats not a bad idea Hawk, but I'd rather not use clay, too heave, too much work. Those little paper plugs they sells for these tubes would be perfect, then you can just add some hot glue to seal the bond. I'll look into making some today...
TheEskimo Posted January 7, 2010 Posted January 7, 2010 I like the priming the end of the timefuse idea. As scarbelly said, how well does this work? I would like to do it this way. There would be less wastage of time fuse, and crossmatching is always a pain when you have a ton of fuses to do.
NightHawkInLight Posted January 7, 2010 Posted January 7, 2010 I like the priming the end of the timefuse idea. As scarbelly said, how well does this work? I would like to do it this way. There would be less wastage of time fuse, and crossmatching is always a pain when you have a ton of fuses to do.I've never had it fail. I make sure that the BP prime passes a bit of moisture to the tip of the fuse and mixes with a bit of the comp so it dries as part of it.
Ventsi Posted January 7, 2010 Author Posted January 7, 2010 Thats why I use water Hawk, I feel it really makes a good bond to the actual fusecore. You guys might want to add a bit more extra binder to make sure the priming doesn't get damaged at all.
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