Karlos Posted December 2, 2009 Posted December 2, 2009 I make a small amount for lift with grinding mortar. I mill wet charcoal, it si better. I pestle Wet powder with 10% vater.(professional amount) and I press this powder to round cakes. This cake I crush in the mortar and cooking sieves help to making grains. Two fractions. This is perfect BP, with maximal burning rate.
dagabu Posted December 5, 2009 Posted December 5, 2009 -"This is wrong , you suck! @#$%##" Damn, I love it!! My buddy Val owns some of the penny and quarter squishers that imprint a name or attraction on them and he showed me the Secret Service bulletin from 1974 outlining coin destruction that says that as long as coins are destroyed and not remade into fraudulent currency, it's ok with them. "Nothing in the law forbids anyone from destroying coins, in spite of a belief to the contrary. Defacing or mutilating a coin and then passing it as currency is another matter. The intent to commit fraud is what is being penalized in this case." D
Swede Posted December 6, 2009 Posted December 6, 2009 The coin thing may vary from Nation to Nation. All I know is that pre-1964 dimes and quarters are a good source of 90% Ag, modern pennies have zinc underneath the copper, and older pennies are almost all copper. Nickels have... Ni. All useful on occasion for chemistry!
usatrapper Posted December 6, 2009 Author Posted December 6, 2009 I read the comments on cannonfuse, and skylighter, about using nickles/quarters, and gave it a try. Then I bought some .50 cal lead shot and tried it as well. I made a green mix and divided it in half for this test. Half for the coin media, and half for the lead media. I ran the coin media trial for 14hours, and the lead media trial for 9 hours. The difference, IMO, was night and day. Using coins as media sucks. It is slower and left some tiny white residue (beads) behind. The lead media milled BP was noticably faster and didn't leave any residue. Yea I agreeCould marbles be used?.
Arthur Posted December 6, 2009 Posted December 6, 2009 NO you may NOT use marbles. Marbles lose small glass shards which sensitise the product dangerously. Mill medis is LeadHardened leadbrasssome ceramics READ the rest of the threads on BP inc the official BP thread right from theai beginings.
mike_au Posted December 7, 2009 Posted December 7, 2009 If you cast your own, cut pieces of copper tubing and fill them with wheel weight lead, the copper is very resistant to wear and the lead provides the weight. D I've seen a few people talk about making media this way. I was thinking of giving it a go, but I was going to do it in the other order, fill with lead, then cut. Is there a reason people prefer cutting first? The only issue I can think of is that the copper might cool the lead, causing it to stick to the sides of the tube and creating voids. The obvious solution is to heat the tube (or possibly even melt the copper in the tube itself).
dagabu Posted December 7, 2009 Posted December 7, 2009 I've seen a few people talk about making media this way. I was thinking of giving it a go, but I was going to do it in the other order, fill with lead, then cut. Is there a reason people prefer cutting first? The only issue I can think of is that the copper might cool the lead, causing it to stick to the sides of the tube and creating voids. The obvious solution is to heat the tube (or possibly even melt the copper in the tube itself). Glad you asked! :-) Lead shrinks when it cools and it will just fall out of the tube if there isn't some mechanism to keep it inside. I use a powered tube cutter to cut it into sections and the cutter makes a natural burr that traps the lead. If you were to pour the lead into the tube, you will soon find that you have huge air pockets when you cut it up. The lead needs to maintain it's temperature all the way to the tube bottom where it needs to flow as a liquid so that there are no gaps in the pour. Good luck with that! After I pour my lead, I wait until it's cool and run them through the arbor press (see how they have a small hump of lead sticking out?) and swedge them into the tube where they are now under pressure against the tube wall and will never fall out. Its easy to experiment with, just cut a 1" section, put it on a 2x4 (not steel, it sucks the heat out of the lead) and heat up the tube, drop small pieces of lead into it till it's full, let cool and give it a good smack with a 3# sledge hammer. D
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