Ventsi Posted October 25, 2009 Posted October 25, 2009 I need to know how to make microstars for fountains. I'm looking for compositions, primes, technuiqes etc.The fountains will be 1" ID.
Mumbles Posted October 25, 2009 Posted October 25, 2009 My favorite formulas for microstars are lance formulas. They're pretty slow burning, and usually quite saturated. Generally a hot prime with BP over the top is more than enough to light them. Even BP plus 5% metal should do the trick. There is a lot of heat, and not a lot of speed going on. I just granulate them through a screen, 6 mesh. Screen out the fines and you're good to go.
firetech Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 Doesn't work for colors, but those little dragon eggs work in a fountain comp. I'd press it if i were you, because I'm not sure if it is sensitive. They crackle loud, and at the perfect time (in my opinion).
TheEskimo Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 I once asked about pressing/ramming dragoneggs in fountains. I decided to make my own test, and took some crackling FF, and some plain dragon eggs. Took 'em out to the back stoop, and whacked as hard as I could with a steel hammer. On steel hammer vs concrete, I could get ignition for both fuse, and plain eggs 5/8 times. So I would suggest pressing anything containing dragon eggs.
Twotails Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 i recently used sparkler star comp, and just cut them Tiny(kinda almost minced them) no prime is needed. the comp is: Sparkler star 60% Potassium perchlorate30% Aluminum, course( I used 325 mesh Spherical Atomized Aluminum)10% Redgum(solvent is alcohol)It is simmiler to a bound flash, But the use of corse aluminum, gives this comp a slow, sparkling effect. If finer aluminum is used these stars will flash insted of sparkle. I used them in my Ferrotitanium gerb I posted in compitions. its not colored(besides silver) but it does look cool.
Ventsi Posted October 26, 2009 Author Posted October 26, 2009 I think I might try granulated Granite Stars ,Red Gum bound. Is there some slow dark burning prime I can use on them? I remember something like Glusats being used on dragon eggs, though I can't remember/find the formula for it. I remember someone mentioning a slight wax coating would work too. I want to get an effect of them lighting after exiting the nozzle, if possible.
Mumbles Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 Paraphrased from Lloyd Sponenburgh 75.5 - Barium Nitrate10 - Charcoal10 - Sulfur3 - Meal1 - Cab-o-sil.5 - CMC Dissolve the CMC in 6 parts water, add to the rest, let it sit for 1 hour, and granulate to 14 mesh. That is for the delay charge. I'd say just replace the CMC with dex and increase to a few percent, and it should roll on. I'd suggest a light layer of green meal to ensure it takes fire.
Ventsi Posted October 26, 2009 Author Posted October 26, 2009 Nuts, it uses a barium salt ,I don't have any of those, nor I'm willing to use them. Whats the delay comp. the Maltese use on their beraq's? That might be worth a shot, its supposed to burn fairly slow. And what about the wax thing? Is that myth?
Mumbles Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 The wax is to waterproof the cores to prevent nitrates from creeping in and destroying the crackle I do believe. Some others use deck water seal. The maltese use BP with gum arabic or barium carbonate. I've heard red gum can be used too. Up to 20 or 30% I have read of the above ingredients. Again, one must prevent the cores from absorbing nitrate.
Ventsi Posted October 26, 2009 Author Posted October 26, 2009 When you say *cores* are you thinking of crackling microstars? Or colored? I see, I'll go with 25% RG. You misunderstood me, I'm using Granite micro stars [nitrate based], not dragon eggs. Also, should I be worried about the stars getting crushed during loading? Zinc stars make a lot of slag and if they start burning inside the fountain it will be drowned out instantly.
Mumbles Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 I was specifically talking about crackling cores. Unless your stars are AP, nitrate would be fine in most cases. It's a shame because a lot of lances and slow stars are based on AP. I don't understand why you need such a slow prime though. Glusatz burn at 30 seconds per inch. Even a 1/32" coating would burn for a second and not light until it was well out of the fountain, possibly raining to the ground. I wouldn't be worried about the stars being crushed during loading. I've rammed many fountains, and they always survive. The stars are WAY harder than fountain comp. Some are probably crushed, but enough survive.
Ventsi Posted October 26, 2009 Author Posted October 26, 2009 I decided to make the stars 12 mesh at the biggest so I can get a denser effect, without the slow prime they would burn up right away rather than igniting half way through their ascend and IMO creating a better effect. Thanks, I'll check back when I get around to testing a fountain.
Recommended Posts