Ralph's Glitter

[Ralph]

Ralph's Glitter

 

Version 1

28 - KNO₃

6 - Sulfur

6 - Charcoal

4 - Aluminum (spherical, 200-400mesh)

2 to 6 Binder - (I usually use 6 Dextrinor2 Dextrin and 2 Gum Arabic)

 

Version 2

28 - KNO₃

6 - Sulfur

6 - Charcoal

4 - Aluminum (spherical, 200-400mesh)

2 to 6 Binder - (I usually use 6 Dextrin or2 Dextrin and 2 Gum Arabic)

2 - Copper Oxide

 

Version 3

28 - KNO₃

6 - Sulfur

6 - Charcoal

4 - Aluminum (spherical, 200-400mesh)

2 to 6 - Binder (I usually use 6 Dextrin or 2 Dextrin and 2 Gum Arabic)

2 - Barium Carbonate

 

Version 4

28 - KNO₃

6 - Sulfur

6 - Charcoal

4 - Aluminum (spherical, 200-400mesh)

2 to 6 Binder - (I usually use 6 Dextrin/2 Dextrin and 2 Gum Arabic)

2 - Barium Carbonate

2 - Copper Carbonate

 

Don't mill the first composition as my original formula has no delay agent and the sulfide/aluminum reaction may occur instantly if it is over milled.

I personally get the best results when the KNO₃ is around the consistency of caster sugar and I find a better glitter effect is achieved this way.

This composition does not require a prime though a quick dusting of meal will ensure absolutely no stars are blown blind.

 

 

Additional Notes:

Beautiful streaming glitter.

Works great in fountains too.

Does not require a prime though if you're boosting a shell hard would still be a good idea.

Edited October 23, 2009 by Ralph

[pogue1000]

Got a newbie question here but what exactly do you mean by?

2 to 6 Binder - (I usually use 6 Dextrin/2 Dextrin and 2 Gum Arabic)

[Ralph]

well I have left the amount of binder as optional as as low as 2 parts dextrin will hold it together quite well but going up to 6 gives a nice rock hard star that is virtually indestructible and great as a micro star or to be granulated and added to lift (gives a kinda cool effect) or if you like to boost the crap out of your shells there is no way it will shatter. to be honest for anything smaller than 3/4" just use 4 parts dextrin as you go bigger or for other applications might be worth going upto 6 parts or adding gum Arabic

 

or if your scared of making a composition that dosnt add up to 100 (or 50) than in version 1 add 6 parts in version 2 and 3 add 4 parts and in version 4 add 2

Edited October 23, 2009 by Ralph

[pogue1000]

Thanks Ralph. Your right that is a pretty simple formula. I have everything but the aluminum, looks like I need to make an order.

[Pretty green flame]

Ralph, is there any significant difference in performance between different formulas?

[TrueBluePyro]

Here is an example of version 1

 

[Ralph]

Ralph, is there any significant difference in performance between different formulas?

 

yeah RG1 when milled is more of a white streamer a little milling gives a slightly brighter glitter and not milling gives what you saw in TBP's video

 

RG2 has a more golden appearance and brighter "pops" the delay isnt significantly affected

 

RG3 has a longer delay is fairly white and due to the longer delay has slightly larger "pops"

 

RG4 has quite a nice long delay and big bright infrequent "pops" (somewhat like winokur 20)

[Goofy]

Ralph,

 

I love TB's post of your version 1! So much so that I ran out and made some. I would like to ask you a few questions...

 

1. What type of charcoal are you using? Commercial AF? Pine?, mesh size, etc.

2. What % water do you normally use it bind the comp.? At 8% H20 it seems really dense and sticky. (I used 12% dextrine) In your experience is that normal or do you use less H2O when your binder % is that high?

3. Do you find that the stars take longer to dry than other stars with a lower % of dextrine?

 

Thanks and keep up the good work!

 

Goofy

[Ralph]

back when developing this formula (before we even had internet at home) I used the charcoal I used for everything which was a mixture of apricot and pistachio (didn't have access to the internet so didn't know it wouldn't make good bp)

I have made it with pine but these days I use malle (its cheap and available and already made (I make all the rest of my own charcoal)) this would be pretty much the same as the commercial stuff you have available in the US. what does really seem to affect the glitter much more than the type of charcoal is the Al used I have found 200mesh is my favourite but any in the range will do.

 

I dont measure my percentage of water by the sounds of it yours may be a little over wet it works best when wet to the point that it can clump and be easily manipulated, dont worry over wetting makes it burn faster and still looks nice

 

I have a habit of using 4parts of dextrin these days because they still come out rock hard they seem to dry quite fast actually after 1-2 days they feal hard and dry on the outside and burn though I have never used them in a device in under 1 week

 

 

thanks hope you enjoy it as much as I do

[Goofy]

Ralph,

 

Thanks for the input.

 

The commercial AF here in the US is made from Oak and sometimes other mixed hardwoods as well. Although not great for really fast BP it is quite good for Glitters and charcoal streamer effects.

 

Myself and others who obsess about endlessly tweaking formula have found that the charcoal used can actually have a pronounced effect on the glitter, all else being kept the same. We have also observed, like you, just how important the particular type of Aluminum you use really is.

 

What I found striking about your formula is that traditionally good glitters include a delay agent (Sb2S3, Fe2O3, NaHCO3, BaCO3, SrCO3, CuO...) [i know you know this] to enhance or create the glitter but your Ver. 1 has no delay agent added. I know glitters can be made without this especially when heavy in Sulfur. But your ver. 1 is not that heavy in Sulfur. I also have learned that particular woods/charcoals have minerals that can do the same thing as is evidenced in Take Shimizu's article in Pyrotechnica XII on the Firefly effect. This is why I asked about the charcoal you use. I am now wondering if the combination of malle (?)charcoal and your particular Al is giving you the effect you have. I also have not seen glitter formula as high in Dextrin as 6 parts, even 4 parts is high (I work around the 2.5 to 3 parts range) and wondered if this was also playing a role.

 

Do you know if TrueBlue uses the same materials as you do?

 

When my comets are dry (1.125" dia.) I'll test them this 4th of July and let you know how mine looked in comparison to TB'S vid.

 

Again thanks for sharing and your comments are appreciated!

 

Goofy

Edited June 23, 2010 by Goofy

[Mumbles]

Goofy, the very first predecessors of glitters were lacking in all delay agents as well. If you look around at the various "pearl" formulas, you'll find them pretty similar to Ralph's when a normal amount of dextrin is used. Normally about 10-15 parts of nitrate is replaced by barium nitrate, which enhances the effect a bit.

 

I do agree it is a nice formula. I was impressed at how long of tail it gave, perhaps due to the size of the stars. The limited experience I have with pearl had a relatively short shimmering tail. It looked there was a little bit of fall out in the tails, but it all seemed to burn out before the end. A little less KNO3 might help that, but it could have just been that particular batch had a little granular charcoal or KNO3 or something, or perhaps a small amount of water.

[Goofy]

Mumbles,

 

Ahh yes,...the fog clears... I do most definitely recall the BaNO3 additions, didn't come to mind at the time of my post.

 

I was never really partial to the pearl type glitters as I always felt they are sort of "wanting". I guess I should have emphasized that the reason I was so impressed with Ralph's formula is the long hang time, spritzel delay and streamer length given that there was no added delay agent. On it's face I would have expected the formula to produce exactly what you bring up - a pearl effect.

 

The granulation size of any of the constituents of a given formula can produce marked effect changes also. It's kind of fun to play around with. A range of mesh sizes or a blend of different charcoals could be interesting too. On a side note, IIRC, Lloyd S. reported that a change of as little as .5% of the delay agent can produce noticeable changes in tail length, spritzel size, and density.

 

Goofy

 

 

Edited June 24, 2010 by Goofy

[TrueBluePyro]

...

Do you know if TrueBlue uses the same materials as you do?

...

 

Goofy,

 

I buy my aluminium from that same place ralph does. I used 200 mesh Atomised aluminium.

 

With my batch you saw in the video. I made 1000g and didn't ball mill any of it. I thought I should o0f but alread had some BP in the mill and wanted to go ahead and make the stars anyway. I put everything through a kitchen seive (aroud 20 mesh) and not all of the charcoal was airfloat. There were also some small bits of visable sulfur. With the 1000g of comp I mixed it with 100g of water and alchole (unknown ratio) and pumped 3/4" x 3/4" stars.

 

I really liked this formula for how easy it is and how really cheap it is to make.

 

Also if you want the version 1 in percentage, here it is:

 

58.33% - kno3

12.50% - sulfur

12.50% - charcoal

8.33% - aluminium

8.33% - dextrin

 

That is the formula I used. Hope that helps a little bit.

[Goofy]

Goofy,

 

I buy my aluminium from that same place ralph does. I used 200 mesh Atomised aluminium.

 

With my batch you saw in the video. I made 1000g and didn't ball mill any of it. I thought I should o0f but alread had some BP in the mill and wanted to go ahead and make the stars anyway. I put everything through a kitchen seive (aroud 20 mesh) and not all of the charcoal was airfloat. There were also some small bits of visable sulfur. With the 1000g of comp I mixed it with 100g of water and alchole (unknown ratio) and pumped 3/4" x 3/4" stars.

 

I really liked this formula for how easy it is and how really cheap it is to make.

 

Also if you want the version 1 in percentage, here it is:

 

58.33% - kno3

12.50% - sulfur

12.50% - charcoal

8.33% - aluminium

8.33% - dextrin

 

That is the formula I used. Hope that helps a little bit.

 

TB,

 

The formula is spectacular just the way you made it! Thanks for the detail on particle sizes of the charcoal and sulfur and the description too. Small formula %'s changes in a glitter actually matter. The batch I made a few days ago is slightly different than what you just wrote so I'm glad you did! I'll make a batch with 3/4" pumped stars at your mix %'s and compare. Hopefully I can duplicate your results with my available chems .

 

Thanks Ralph, Mumbles and TB!

[Cookieman]

Here is an example of version 1

 

 

 

That is one hell of a glitter!! does anyone have a vid. on version 2, 3, and 4?

[Ralph]

TB,

 

The formula is spectacular just the way you made it! Thanks for the detail on particle sizes of the charcoal and sulfur and the description too. Small formula %'s changes in a glitter actually matter. The batch I made a few days ago is slightly different than what you just wrote so I'm glad you did! I'll make a batch with 3/4" pumped stars at your mix %'s and compare. Hopefully I can duplicate your results with my available chems .

 

Thanks Ralph, Mumbles and TB!

 

 

he just converted it to percentages with his chosen amount of dextrin (4parts)

 

That is one hell of a glitter!! does anyone have a vid. on version 2, 3, and 4?

 

 

here is RG2 milled considerably for once had someone elce lighting the device and so i got to film it

[Cookieman]

he just converted it to percentages with his chosen amount of dextrin (4parts)

 

 

 

 

here is RG2 milled considerably for once had someone elce lighting the device and so i got to film it

 

 

Thanks Ralph, they are both beautifull. I love the golden glitter on the RG2.

[dagabu]

ARRRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!

 

OK, now I have to put my rockets aside and make glitter? I gotta say Ralph, it sure is pretty!!

[Goofy]

Ralph, TB & Mumbles,

 

I have made Ralph's formula Ver. 1 and just had a chance to test it. With my chems and an atom. alum. that is about 200mesh I get a really short tailed "pearl" glitter. I will make another batch changing only the Al but I will use a much larger Al (like for the "Breaking Glass" glitter) and when I get a chance to test it I will let you know what happens. I think it will produce what Ralph and TB have. At least that is my "current" hunch!

 

Goofy

 

Have a great weekend!

[Ralph]

Ralph, TB & Mumbles,

 

I have made Ralph's formula Ver. 1 and just had a chance to test it. With my chems and an atom. alum. that is about 200mesh I get a really short tailed "pearl" glitter. I will make another batch changing only the Al but I will use a much larger Al (like for the "Breaking Glass" glitter) and when I get a chance to test it I will let you know what happens. I think it will produce what Ralph and TB have. At least that is my "current" hunch!

 

Goofy

 

Have a great weekend!

 

It sounds like you may have overmilled or over wet the composition (did it go white?). TB uses 200mesh and do I and Gunzaway (and some others not on this forum). how wet was it when you consolidated it ?

 

thanks Dagabu and Cookieman glad you like it

[Mumbles]

I actually wonder if it's the charcoal. Granular components can really extend the tail. Maybe half a part 80 mesh subsituted in for the charcoal may help to replicate the effect. TBB mentioned that his charcoal was not all airfloat. I've never tried to screen the commercial airfloat we have in the US, but it all very easily passes 100 mesh. I really don't know the bottom cut off for the 80 mesh charcoal, but presumably everything that passes is billed as airfloat.

[Ralph]

I actually wonder if it's the charcoal. Granular components can really extend the tail. Maybe half a part 80 mesh subsituted in for the charcoal may help to replicate the effect. TBB mentioned that his charcoal was not all airfloat. I've never tried to screen the commercial airfloat we have in the US, but it all very easily passes 100 mesh. I really don't know the bottom cut off for the 80 mesh charcoal, but presumably everything that passes is billed as airfloat.

 

In the video I posted the charcoal and sulfur had been milled for many hours in a high efficiency mill (to the point were they were clumping together as meal does) though its not how I usually make it and as you can see it still worked quite nicely

[TrueBluePyro]

All of my chemicals went through a 20 mesh screen. Most of the charcoal was airfloat but there was some bits that did sit on the mesh and I put them aside.

[Goofy]

It sounds like you may have overmilled or over wet the composition (did it go white?). TB uses 200mesh and do I and Gunzaway (and some others not on this forum). how wet was it when you consolidated it ?

 

 

 

 

Ralph,

 

I did not mill any of the individual components together. 8% H2O. I didn't pay strict attention to the color of the glitter so I will have to shoot another to tell. I will have another batch made today but I am going to use a different Al and I will also use a blend of mesh charcoals and Al in a third batch. (I am going to use the formula TB posted with 8% binder.)

 

I do find it curious that you guys are getting the tail length you do with intimately ball milled C/S. I would lean toward "shortened" tail knowing that. If I still can't seem to re-produce the effect I will make a 4th batch with some ball milled C/S that I have on hand.

 

Does your Malle charcoal work well for making Hot/Fast lift quality BP or is it better for spark production?

 

Noye

 

Again, thanks for your comments!

[Ralph]

the milled charcoal sulfur is more of a convince the sulfur I have is predominantly in 1-2mm chunks and the charcoal as it comes from the meat mincer has lots of chunks of similar size (and also alot of air float martial) the reason it was that fine was with a relatively inert load such as charcoal and sulfur you dont pay to much attention I was using a really nice efficient mill getting distracted cooking or having a nap resulted in me coming back a couple/few hours later with the fine product. what I nearly always do do is add my KNO₃ As it comes though (similar consistency to caster sugar(I assume you have this in the US if you dont its finer than normal sugar probably exactly like the KNO₃ you would be getting) though the reason I use the coarse KNO₃ is really out of convenience I have used milled stuff before with out any really notable adverse affects

 

if your having troubles try one of the other versions they are not as sensitive to overwetting

 

malle charcoal is horrible for lift only thing I have used that was worse that comes to mind is olive. though that being said I find a small percentage in my lift seems to give good results in comparison to straight willow/balsa. malle makes quite good sparks their colour isnt my personal favourite but there is lots of them and cheap so I use it anyway

 

hope all your issues are sorted and it works well for you