jrin0630 Posted October 20, 2009 Posted October 20, 2009 I live in the north east and have been drying my stars in a shed for most of the season. As it gets closer to winter, the temperature in the shed will go down to about 40-45 degrees (its insulated a bit). Humidity is relatively low....probably 70%. Will the colder temps damage the drying stars in any way? I know they may take longer to dry but I'm ok with that. Thanks.
Twotails Posted October 20, 2009 Posted October 20, 2009 It depends i guess, Im in the North east as well (Ma) I've never tried to dry water containing stars at that temp. I have a food dehydrator, and it stays pretty warm, I made a Star Box, but Was unhappy with the limited space, and well, it just seemed boring. I got my Dehydrator from walmart, Runs about $30, it has i think 4 trays. So your in the NE as well?, its good to know theres others (atleast Semi) close to me.
jrin0630 Posted October 20, 2009 Author Posted October 20, 2009 It depends i guess, Im in the North east as well (Ma) I've never tried to dry water containing stars at that temp. I have a food dehydrator, and it stays pretty warm, I made a Star Box, but Was unhappy with the limited space, and well, it just seemed boring. I got my Dehydrator from walmart, Runs about $30, it has i think 4 trays. So your in the NE as well?, its good to know theres others (atleast Semi) close to me.[/quo Thanks. I'll just try a small test batch in the meantime and see what happens. I'm thinking it isn't cold enough to freeze anything and it's relatively dry, so well see!
Mumbles Posted October 20, 2009 Posted October 20, 2009 I think as long as they're dry you'll be alright. If they were wet, I wouldn't try it. Most magazines are outdoors exposed to the elements, so I think you have a long history working in your favor.
Arthur Posted October 20, 2009 Posted October 20, 2009 Above freezing, things should just dry very slowly, with the attendant risk of mould growing where you were not expecting it. Below freezing or cycling through zero think of lots of problems with moisture expanding and contracting and things breaking up. A few sensitive comps may not be good inc several with magnesium that like being dried quickly.
Twotails Posted October 20, 2009 Posted October 20, 2009 Thanks. I'll just try a small test batch in the meantime and see what happens. I'm thinking it isn't cold enough to freeze anything and it's relatively dry, so well see! I've already had a 1/2 inch of show on my car twice. I'd just watch the weather forcast. I know when its summer, I set up a shed out on my land, and string up screens for drying, Being on screens seems to speed up drying, even a little bit. Also, If you have acess to a shed, why not set it up like above, and pipe dry air in from a plumance heater(set on low.)
Ventsi Posted October 21, 2009 Posted October 21, 2009 Sortof on topic here:Is rice effective as a desiccant? Like laying a whole bunch under your star screen in order to keep the humidity down?
Twotails Posted October 21, 2009 Posted October 21, 2009 I dont see why not, thats how I keep my meat grinder stored, the rice wicks away moisture. Although i think it would be poorly suited for our needs, you would possably need a few pounds of rice, and you would them have to seal the rice and stars in some sort of container. I honestly would by Wetceller/closet dessacent, it found near the mothballs in walmart, and will run you rougly $5 for a contaner. although i thick it can be used many times, by baking the moisture out.
NightHawkInLight Posted October 21, 2009 Posted October 21, 2009 55lbs of calcium chloride goes for $15 where I am. I've been using it in a 5 gallon bucket to dry out the pasting on my shells. It would also work for stars.
homebrewed77 Posted October 21, 2009 Posted October 21, 2009 Would it be a problem to just bring them inside to dry? Because winter is comming on fast..Now I dont know how far north you are..But when it's like -20 outside..you wont catch me in a shed lol..Last month, It was hitting 90...this month..it's been down to 14 that I know of..I know I'm not doing to good of a job ansewering you..But..You know..Adult ADHD! lol j/k..do you have a little out of the way spot you can put em to dry in you're house? Like in a basement? Or spare bed room ect.?
wtflol Posted October 21, 2009 Posted October 21, 2009 It depends on what kind of stars they are. I wouldn't dry sensitive stars indoors @ home, but I guess non-sensitive kinds like BP-based stars would be fine as long as you can find a decent spot where generally no-one comes and has no ignition sources. I've never made sensitive stars where some reaction could occur, and never had any problems drying them indoor. What i've also done before is drying stars outdoor in a tent with a ventilator with heating function on low, it works like a charm!
Ventsi Posted July 12, 2010 Posted July 12, 2010 Okay, this is annoying the heck out of me. I cut half a pound of TT with 15% -325 spherical Aluminum into 1/2 cubes and they just don't want to dry!!!!I made these three weeks ago and can still crush them in my fingers, I tried sticking them in the oven after 12 days and heated them at 225*F for 4 hours and that helped a little but still, nada. Most of my stars (TT, brocade, glitter, spider, color w/e) take a week at the most to dry. What the heck am I going to do with these? I'll stick them in the oven for a few hours tomorrow but if that fails, they are a junk mine... Its a shame too, I found out they were still damp after pasting one shell with them and starting a second (red kaleidoscope with two rings of the stars, 3")
dagabu Posted July 12, 2010 Posted July 12, 2010 I have posted this a few times but I have a batch of willow cut stars that I made last September that still have 2% water weight to loose before I can use them. Charcoal comps like this can go driven in pretty easy and a batch I made last month (with 20% alcohol this time) dried in a week.
Ventsi Posted July 12, 2010 Posted July 12, 2010 You know Dave, I was thinking about it and the only difference in my method this time was that I was out of alcohol and used straight water to wet the composition, never again...
dagabu Posted July 12, 2010 Posted July 12, 2010 I hope mine dry but there has been NO movement for the past few months
KruseMissile Posted July 13, 2010 Posted July 13, 2010 Dave, have you tried a fan blowing right on top of them? If you have some sunlight, that also helps. Drying rack(if you have one). I'm lucky because I get sun for nearly 16 hours a day XD
dagabu Posted July 13, 2010 Posted July 13, 2010 LOL! I have tried EVERYTHING on the planet! Trust me on this, once driven in, you have to break them open to dry the core. They are just a source of entertainment for me know since I use some alcohol in the mix now and makes the difference.
Arthur Posted July 14, 2010 Posted July 14, 2010 Davis in COPAE discusses the moisture content of commercial BP and concludes that 1.7% moisture is normal, and that powder dried past this will regain moisture in normal storage from the atmosphere.Urbanski discusses charcoal and comments that powder made from lightly charred wood will be more sensitive but more hygroscopic than if the charcoal was cooked to higher temperatures.
dagabu Posted July 14, 2010 Posted July 14, 2010 Good points, my TT have 5.3% of moisture in them, I am OK with 2.5% so I still want to loose the final 2-3% so that I can take a close look at how they burn.
FrankRizzo Posted July 15, 2010 Posted July 15, 2010 Dave, It might seem counter-intuitive, but if you lightly re-wet the stars and put them in a sealed container (gallon ziploc works well) for a day, the moisture will even-out between the layers. Then, dry the stars gently.
dagabu Posted July 15, 2010 Posted July 15, 2010 Dave, It might seem counter-intuitive, but if you lightly re-wet the stars and put them in a sealed container (gallon ziploc works well) for a day, the moisture will even-out between the layers. Then, dry the stars gently. Hmmmm, that sounds like a novel way to address them. How much do you suggest?
FrankRizzo Posted July 16, 2010 Posted July 16, 2010 Hmmmm, that sounds like a novel way to address them. How much do you suggest? I've just sprayed them and lightly tumbled until they get a "damp" look (they get that dark matte look). If I were to guess, I'd say ~1-2% by weight of moisture. Keeping them sealed afterward in that high humidity environment lets the moisture soak in and re-opens small channels into the star that allow the moisture to leave later.
Arthur Posted July 16, 2010 Posted July 16, 2010 I've had stars that took months to dry, but if they really are at a moisture equilibrium then that's what you may have to fire as they will soon get to equilibrium again even if you store them in a dessicator. Urbanski puts the hygroscopicity of the powder down to the temperature of the charcoaling process when making BP.
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