skysparkler Posted August 20, 2014 Posted August 20, 2014 (edited) I Have no strontium at this time , barium and sodium nitrates have difficult properties but work well for strobes, particularly with sodium nitrate.My magnalium homemade separated througt 150 mesh i try to add smaller size nex time as testing. This the best and fastest nitrate strobe 've ever seenAwait dinamic test from stibium Edited August 20, 2014 by skysparkler
rogeryermaw Posted August 20, 2014 Posted August 20, 2014 (edited) sky i think your dynamic test looked pretty good! i'd like to give that formula a try. i have a couple of other ideas that are in line first but i'll post my experiments with tghis formula. Edited August 20, 2014 by rogeryermaw
dagabu Posted August 20, 2014 Posted August 20, 2014 I Have no strontium at this time , barium and sodium nitrates have difficult properties but work well for strobes, particularly with sodium nitrate.My magnalium homemade separated througt 150 mesh i try to add smaller size nex time as testing. This the best and fastest nitrate strobe 've ever seenAwait dinamic test from stibium Whats the formula for that one Sky? I like that a lot.
Adrenaline Posted August 20, 2014 Posted August 20, 2014 That´s Stibium's formula. Here you go: Strontium Nitrate 65 gPotassium Chlorate 10 gPVC powder 3 gMagnalium 200 mesh 21 gNC 10% MEK 25 gCuO 2g
dagabu Posted August 20, 2014 Posted August 20, 2014 Dag-Nabbitt! It has Chlorate in it... I like AP way more than I do chlorate so I keep it away from my building area. Maybe next summer then at PGI.
abbykarim Posted August 21, 2014 Posted August 21, 2014 hi...newbie here, can any one point me to some info on the chemistry of a stobe and how it works....i know that it has to do with the fluctiation of burn rates of the magnalium and kno3 in blesser white strobes, but i am trying to learn more on it chemistry
Mumbles Posted August 21, 2014 Author Posted August 21, 2014 I'd suggest checking out Pyrotechnica V, XI, and XIV, as well as Shimizu's Fireworks: Art, Science, and Technique for more detailed scientific discussion.
abbykarim Posted August 21, 2014 Posted August 21, 2014 I'd suggest checking out Pyrotechnica V, XI, and XIV, as well as Shimizu's Fireworks: Art, Science, and Technique for more detailed scientific discussion.is this a forum or a book?
Mumbles Posted August 21, 2014 Author Posted August 21, 2014 Pyrotechnica is a journal of sorts, and "FAST" is a book. You know, you can just google these things. 1
abbykarim Posted August 21, 2014 Posted August 21, 2014 Pyrotechnica is a journal of sorts, and "FAST" is a book. You know, you can just google these things. hey thanks mumbles, all the bits and pieces i have been reading onlinevfor the past year i have seen the shimizu compositions....only now as you told me about that book FAST, i now realise who shimizu was....i got to get me that book....but its plenty expensive though 1
Adrenaline Posted August 21, 2014 Posted August 21, 2014 Dag-Nabbitt! It has Chlorate in it... I like AP way more than I do chlorate so I keep it away from my building area. Maybe next summer then at PGI. Yeah I totally agree. Mixing chlorates and MgAl doesn't seem very safe to me. Although I have to admit I've never tried it.Does anyone have any reference as to how sensitive compositions like this are?
dagabu Posted August 22, 2014 Posted August 22, 2014 No concerns about the MgAl, just with AP in the shop at the same time.
FlaMtnBkr Posted September 28, 2014 Posted September 28, 2014 I do all my work on a picnic table out in the yard. I don't like chemicals around my shop with a bunch of other stuff that others use. A spill isn't a big deal and gets cleaned up by nature. I have both AP and chlorate. I have some tools that I use with the chlorate that I mark with a paint pen or colored tape and I store them all in a plastic container so they don't get mixed up. If I work with something that isn't compatible I move my 'shop' to a different part of the property, work with it, then clean up, put everything in the container and put it away. I don't have a pyro only shop and i don't have tons of tools. So working with something, cutting stars, and priming them can be done and put away. Once dry they can be put in shells wherever I make them. It's probably not perfect but it works well for me.
enanthate Posted September 28, 2014 Posted September 28, 2014 Hi! All. I tested mix that stibium are published. it best in static test but in air test strobe frequency go down.Static 2% CuO https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rl6UMKqfX4s&list=UUUF0TVsqujOLhSPzJrv21FgDynamic 2% CuO https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QM5RwqG7bNo&list=UUUF0TVsqujOLhSPzJrv21Fg&index=1Someone have ideas to make it faster or stabilize him in airflowMagnalium used after 150 mesh Sky, I loved your dynamic test. Beautiful indeed! I don't think the strobe frequency was bad. It was slower, but perfect IMO. What's the comp? You say you used Stibium's comp, did you just replace Strontium nitrate with CuO?
FlaMtnBkr Posted September 28, 2014 Posted September 28, 2014 He replaced the strontium nitrate with barium nitrate and added 2% CuO. At least that's how it sounds.
enanthate Posted September 28, 2014 Posted September 28, 2014 (edited) Why the different colors? It looks like they're rolled in layers. Blue-ish, green-ish and white-ish. Am I wrong? edit: You are right, he did say he just replaced with barium nitrate. I don't understand why the colors look like they do though, maybe it's the camera. Will give it a shot here anyway.Size around 5mm is OK for 3-4"? I assume they should be small, as it looks like they're falling quite slowly. Edited September 28, 2014 by enanthate
FlaMtnBkr Posted September 29, 2014 Posted September 29, 2014 (edited) It looks to me like there are a couple different colors. But the video is acting weird for me and cycling to the next so I'm not sure I'm looking at the same thing. Edit: they look bluish, then a green/yellow, then white. No way to know what the formula is since they are color changing? He also mentioned use of sodium nitrate. I wonder if iron oxide could replace the copper. I know the barium nitrate white strobe should be cut about a max of eighth inch (about 3mm) cubes. Or else you will have fire raining down on the ground. I would imagine the colors will be similar if not even slower than the white. I have made the white many times and they work well for me. Edited September 29, 2014 by FlaMtnBkr
enanthate Posted September 29, 2014 Posted September 29, 2014 (edited) Awesome, been wanting to roll smaller stars for my shells. Thanks for the info, will up a vid when my beauties are fired I would think iron oxide would replace the copper, assuming the oxygen is giving the effect. Don't have iron oxide atm, so won't be able to test that for you. edit: Would BP + 5% Si be a decent prime for these? My prime usually works for me, but so far I've only tried it on relatively easily ignited stars. Edited September 29, 2014 by enanthate
FlaMtnBkr Posted September 29, 2014 Posted September 29, 2014 The white ones light easy for me. I think I just use grean meal screened together to prime but can check notes and verify.
enanthate Posted September 29, 2014 Posted September 29, 2014 (edited) Sorry, I realized after posting that there is chlorate in it. Sulfur-based prime isnt a good idea, is it?I'm doing pinball with BP on outter layer. edit: Just tested my red strobes, they strobe nicely. 4-5hz while still a bit wet. #250 MgAl works fine, just added 1g copper instead of 2.I love Parlonstars, but find it tricky to work with NC, it sticks to everything so much more than rubberstars. I'm sure I'll get the hang of it soon enough.Thanks for info guys, will be making more of these. If anybody finds a parlonbound strobecomp, please shout! Edited September 29, 2014 by enanthate
Carbon796 Posted September 30, 2014 Posted September 30, 2014 If your a member of fireworking.com there is one in the formula section. 1
skysparkler Posted October 4, 2014 Posted October 4, 2014 (edited) Hi !With iron oxide don`t work properly and replace chlorate to perchlorate works bad to, without chlorates-perchlorates work nice but slow.CuO best to perform frequency, and possibly add more than 2-3%. With parlon never take good efect because it`s very fine powder and it`s fuel witch supports combustion, without vibration in strobe mix.Pvc possibly add 8-9% to beter green for green 3% enougt ,therefore we see blurred green color I noticed that denser star strobe a bit faster . Edited October 4, 2014 by skysparkler
nt8 Posted October 21, 2014 Posted October 21, 2014 I like this strobe with barium-nitrat, and 3% PVC, the color is nearly aqua. But i dont have chlorate, with perchlorate isnt regulary strobe rate, and ignition hardly
Mumbles Posted October 21, 2014 Author Posted October 21, 2014 Nitrate based strobes don't have regular strobe rates the same way that ammonium perchlorate/sulfate ones do. They'll always have some level of randomness to them. If you're looking for a replacement for strobe rockets, you're still out of luck. These really work best in shells where the randomness of individual stars isn't noticeable.
skysparkler Posted October 28, 2014 Posted October 28, 2014 I like this strobe with barium-nitrat, and 3% PVC, the color is nearly aqua. But i dont have chlorate, with perchlorate isnt regulary strobe rate, and ignition hardlyTry add KnO3
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