The-T Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 If im going to add some flash booster to my shells, what composition is best/safest?
Mumbles Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 Well, what size of shell are you making, and what is the burst you are boosting? A lot of people have been using 2:1:1 Potassium Nitrate:Sulfur:Bright Al for shells. They coat BP coated hulls until no more will stick, and use this as is for the shells. This might be a good place to start. Trying to boost KP or H3 might be tricky. A little bit goes a long way.
NightHawkInLight Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 (edited) I have and likely always will use: Potassium Nitrate - 5Sulfur - 3Dark (8 micron) Al - 2 It works spectacularly well in shells up to 5 inch. I have not considered it necessary for anything larger, but I imagine it would to just fine if your usual break is still somehow to weak for that size of shell. EDIT: I forgot to mention, to boost the shells with this flash I'll usually just dust the break with the flash after it has been dumped in the shell. I then tap the casing lightly a few times to settle it. I also like this composition because it goes light on the valuable dark Al. Edited September 8, 2009 by NightHawkInLight
Arthur Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 Paper shells above 2.5ins usually do not need boosting if the BP is up to standard. Plastic shells are a whole different burst game.
FREAKYDUTCHMEN Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 Depends on pasting and taste Arthur, I use flash up to 12".
Sambo Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 (edited) I use a different comp again, I follow this table though.KNO3 – 50Al (dark flake) – 30S – 20 2” - 5g 3” - 7.5g 4” - 10g 5” - 15g 6” - 20g 7” - 30g 8” - 40g I use the continuous gummed tape method of pasting, equal to 6 layers. I cut down on the flash for some shells (with a tail effect), the stars seem to spread out too much and loose the dense tails, I use the amount required for a shell 1" smaller. i.e a 4" would use 7.5g and an 8" would use 30g. Add bp on hulls burst like normal then dump half of the flash into each hemi and close. Edited September 8, 2009 by Sambo
pyrogeorge Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 Hi,i haven't experiense in fp but why nitrate flash is safer than klo4/al?nitrates are more reactive in al,rigth?so why is safe?
50AE Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 (edited) It's much less sensitive to shock and friction, I don't know about static though. It makes the work with it more comfortable. This doesn't mean that you can treat it like a barbarian though, it's still a flash mix. As for me, I think boosters aren't necessary from shells bigger than 2" if you paste the correct number of layers. BP on hulls can be enough. Then also, it can be a difference of taste. Some people make a 3" shell to break like with a radius of 200 meters, others are satisfied with 50 meters. Personally, I use H3 for streamer star shells and BP on hulls for colored shells. I don't put a booster. Edited September 8, 2009 by 50AE
Mumbles Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 I'm not going to venture into which is safer, although nitrate flashes seem less sensitive because it's less powerful. Nitrate flashes seem to burn slower which provides more of a burst than a shattering force which I feel is the main reason they are used more frequently.
jrin0630 Posted September 8, 2009 Posted September 8, 2009 I've tired a few different burst/booster combinations, and I agree with some of the previous replies.....for 3 to 5" shells, I use BP on hulls and then 1-1.5G of slow flash (50/30/20 - Nitrate/S/Al) as a booster. Assuming the correct pasting is done based on shell size, this combination gives the best all around break IMO.
Skycastlefish Posted September 13, 2009 Posted September 13, 2009 I have and likely always will use: Potassium Nitrate - 5Sulfur - 3Dark (8 micron) Al - 2 It works spectacularly well in shells up to 5 inch. I have not considered it necessary for anything larger, but I imagine it would to just fine if your usual break is still somehow to weak for that size of shell. EDIT: I forgot to mention, to boost the shells with this flash I'll usually just dust the break with the flash after it has been dumped in the shell. I then tap the casing lightly a few times to settle it. I also like this composition because it goes light on the valuable dark Al. Would using 3 micron Al affect the performance? I've been told the smaller the particle size the better. Does this mean the smaller the particle the more sensitive?
Mumbles Posted September 13, 2009 Posted September 13, 2009 It'd be about equal assuming the same particle shape. When you get this fine, it makes little difference. Indian Blackhead is listed as 8 micron, while German blackhead is usually listed around 3-5 micron. They both preform about the same. Depending on who you ask, you'll get different answers as to which is more powerful or loud. I honestly wouldn't bother with hot Al for a slow flash. I use -325 mesh dark flake (Eckhart 10890) for my slow flash. I think it lights stuff a bit better.
Skycastlefish Posted September 15, 2009 Posted September 15, 2009 I honestly wouldn't bother with hot Al for a slow flash. I use -325 mesh dark flake (Eckhart 10890) for my slow flash. I think it lights stuff a bit better. I purchased, on a common auction site, Al that is less than technical grade, but is pure and roughly -350 mesh It works great for thermite!, but it doesn’t work (at all) for small amounts of KCLO4 flash powder. For slow flash, this might be a resource? Skycastlfish
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