Mumbles Posted May 24, 2007 Posted May 24, 2007 So you want to dump an aqueous soln onto anhydrous crystals and keep it anhydrous huh? No, I don't think that would work. Your best bet might be to tumble the crystals in a star roller type device and lightly mist the soln on, then dry back to it's anhydrous state imediatly. I still don't think it will work, but you can always try. I think that to be adequately protected, the grains would have to be prohibitively large to function in a composition.
_Po_ Posted May 26, 2007 Posted May 26, 2007 I found a bottle of picric acid in my room during a final pyro clean up. How do I dispose of it properly?
Mardec Posted May 26, 2007 Posted May 26, 2007 I found a bottle of picric acid in my room during a final pyro clean up. How do I dispose of it properly? Nr 8 cap. Just kidding. I would say burning it in the open. I think chemical destruction is kind of hard on picric.
qwezxc12 Posted May 26, 2007 Posted May 26, 2007 Some awesome videos...link wasp posted over at rec.pyro: video Sort of a "sequential" peony shell like I've never seen before, where the pistil lights immediately, then the outer petal lights up by rings in sequence using varying thicknesses of dark relay ...truly a masters work, not just for formulations, but exacting star rolling and sizing and shell construction. Wow.
The_Duke Posted May 26, 2007 Posted May 26, 2007 Wet the TNP down with 25% water (give or take) and burn in a fire, no detonation will happen but be carfull nonetheless... Other than that, the safest way to fully dispose of your TNP would be to detonate it.
asilentbob Posted May 27, 2007 Posted May 27, 2007 Yeah I'd say burn bit by bit of the TNP in a fire outside. Don't stand in the path of the smoke.
optimus Posted May 27, 2007 Posted May 27, 2007 Some awesome videos...link wasp posted over at rec.pyro: video Sort of a "sequential" peony shell like I've never seen before, where the pistil lights immediately, then the outer petal lights up by rings in sequence using varying thicknesses of dark relay ...truly a masters work, not just for formulations, but exacting star rolling and sizing and shell construction. Wow. VERY NICE! I've seen one similar shell before, with a colour change going in sequence from left to right. Never seen this done with dark relays though - it's a great effect. A masters work indeed! thanks for the link
Swany Posted May 28, 2007 Posted May 28, 2007 You could reduce the hell out of it: HCl/Al would probably do the trick. Burning it would probably be the best, though. I would make the potassium salt and burn it, at that. In small bits, of course.
XinE895 Posted May 28, 2007 Posted May 28, 2007 Thats Amazing.... http://36arts.com/2007shinsakuhanabi/10.php Where ever that house is I would like to buy it and live there... can you imagine having that stuff go on pretty close to your house like that?
RUUUUUN Posted May 29, 2007 Posted May 29, 2007 Pretty close? Look how far out in the water the barge doing the launching is, it is like 1/4 inch across. shoot! Those are some nice shells. I am back from my 3 day sabbatical and am ready to commence with my July 4 arsenal. w00t!
Swany Posted May 29, 2007 Posted May 29, 2007 Well, fellows, it has been a while. I thought summer would be less busy, but not so. In less than a week I head off to a summer university program thingy, and I will be gone for a month or so. Anyways, I am looking into getting some Na metal and was wondering if anyone would like amounts of it, less than an ounce. Price for an ounce would probably be 30 dollars, shipped. PM me if you would be interested.
Mumbles Posted May 29, 2007 Posted May 29, 2007 I got a kick out of this. I'd like to introduce you to my arch-nemesis. The only person to ever legitimatly beat me at chemistry. http://www.ssc.wisc.edu/~oliver/aboutme_fi...muchsmaller.jpg
fight fire with fire Posted May 29, 2007 Posted May 29, 2007 Damm you must be annoyed beat by a woman
CrazyIsraeli Posted May 29, 2007 Posted May 29, 2007 I got a kick out of this. I'd like to introduce you to my arch-nemesis. The only person to ever legitimatly beat me at chemistry. http://www.ssc.wisc.edu/~oliver/aboutme_fi...muchsmaller.jpg You can be sure that she does not make rockets, But you do ; She loses, You win!
Pretty green flame Posted May 29, 2007 Posted May 29, 2007 5mm walls on 100mm ID HDPE. Safe or Not safe for mortar use?
optimus Posted May 29, 2007 Posted May 29, 2007 Damm you must be annoyed beat by a woman Thought that was a guy till I saw your post!
_DB_ Posted May 29, 2007 Posted May 29, 2007 I haven't been here in a while, but IIRC you're into photography aren't you Optimus? I'm wanting to get a nice camera soon so I can get more into photography and am currently looking at a few cams. They are: -Canon Rebel XT -Canon Rebel XTi -Nikon D40 Which one do you recommend? What camera do you have? Thanks.
Mumbles Posted May 29, 2007 Posted May 29, 2007 Yeah, she is one fugly girl. PGF, I would think that the pipe would be alright for firing, epecially if burried. My mortars of that size are of a similar wall thickness. Roughtly 6mm, but 5 should be fine.
dragonman586 Posted May 30, 2007 Posted May 30, 2007 Hello again. It's been a while. Wow I took a break for college and other reasons. When I finally decide to even think about a comeback into what little pyrotechnics I knew, and to increase my knowledge quite a bit, I see that quite a lot has gone downhill. Wow.
XinE895 Posted May 30, 2007 Posted May 30, 2007 Pretty close? Look how far out in the water the barge doing the launching is, it is like 1/4 inch across. Ya well thats a lot closer then I am right now isnt it? Anyways, I'm making a large saxon and I'm wondering if anyone has had expereance making about 1.25in by 7in drivers using Iron powder. Any ideas for a comp? For smaller drivers I just use meal powder with about 15g to every 100g (meal/Iron) I'm thinking that will work fine in a larger driver, but I thought I would put it out there before I use up a good about of meal.
Mumbles Posted May 30, 2007 Posted May 30, 2007 I've never made a driver of that size, but I have made a few fountains using the passfire tutorial. Here is the comp:Meal Powder 60 Microstars, 1/8" to 3/16" 15 Charcoal Airfloat 10 Charcoal, Pine, 20-30m 10 Titanium, flakes, 10-20 mesh 5 Here is something like a driver I would try: Meal Powder 75 Iron granules 10 Charcoal Airfloat 5 Charcoal, Coarse 10 If they cato, step off the meal, and counter with airfloat. Say a 2.5 part switch each time (72.5 meal and 7.5 C airfloat). I kept the coarse C as it really makes a beautiful spray. I used -16+36 I do believe. It may help to counter-act if the Iron powder is too fine, and give a longer spray. Microstars may also work. it want a larger spray. It's going to take about 150g or so of comp per driver.
optimus Posted May 30, 2007 Posted May 30, 2007 I haven't been here in a while, but IIRC you're into photography aren't you Optimus? I'm wanting to get a nice camera soon so I can get more into photography and am currently looking at a few cams. They are: -Canon Rebel XT -Canon Rebel XTi -Nikon D40 Which one do you recommend? What camera do you have? Thanks. I have both the 30D and 300D - both excelent cameras for fireworks. There isn't an awful lot of difference between the two Canons you're looking at, but I would definitely recommend them over the Nikon. The most relavant advantage of the Canons is that they go down to ISO100, wheras the Nikon only goes down to ISO200. Lower ISO and MUCH better noise handling/reduction makes MUCH better firework pictures! In my (biased) opinion, Canon kick Nikon's arse on many fronts!
fight fire with fire Posted May 30, 2007 Posted May 30, 2007 I just printed out 14 pages of star compositions, if any one asks my brother finished of the ink catridge
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