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I've done it with pressed stars. It's pretty easy with a deep fill star plate. Fill and press a layer of granulated streamer/glitter/etc, then fill and press a layer of color. It actually doesn't work too bad, as the colors (which will be a thinner layer), burn slower than the streamer. Sometimes there are splitting problems from differing dry rates.

 

I've been wanting to try color changing crossettes.

 

Most of the time it's done with disks of pressed star comp. They are then dried separately, and "glued" together with NC lacquer or pasted together with a band around the sides.

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Hu, I havent heard of this or thought of it to be truthful, this sounds like an alright idea, I might give it a try, I hope urs work out mate.

 

Should I use 2 comps that use acertone as the solvent? or would it be ok if one was water and the other acertone? would they stick together?

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I can't speak from experience (yet), but I'd think it would work better if both stars used the same solvent/binder system, or at least the same solvent (whether it be water/dextrin, Acetone/NC or something else). Due to the varying adhesion properties and drastically different drying times. Again I'm not sure, but I would guess that Mumbles was using the same solvent for his hybrid stars, showing that even more subtle differences in dry times can cause cracking.

 

I only used NC laquer because I wanted to test these by thursday...and the water-bound stars would never be dry by then (plus I am a bit hesitant to dump large amounts of water on a MgAl comp and then walk away from it for several days). But I'd guess that any solvent/binder system would work so long as they were compatible between the two layers.

Edited by flying fish
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yeah fair enough, tho I think it would be a waste of time if they where both colour stars. it just wouldnt look right, if you know what I mean, I think a glitter and a colour look good and I will try it with the NC to weld them both together
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Color-color probably wouldn't look right... but it still might be an interesting experiment. For instance, if you were to attach red to blue, would you see purple, or would you see red and blue very closely spaced? Or some combination of those two possibilities? And if purple, would the quality of the purple differ from a "normal" purple?
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We've had several threads recently about pressing BP, then corning, vs. simply moistening and then screening, for lift, burst, other typical BP duties.

 

I've been into the habit of taking and preserving small samples of each batch, for fun and for eventual tests on speed and such. Here's an interesting photo... the BP on the left is riced, not pressed. Another sample of the exact same BP was pressed to 1.6 g/cc, then corned. I selected grain sizes that were as close to identical as possible, and each jar holds exactly 5 grams.

 

The pressed BP tinkles like ceramic when poured in the jar, and the grains are terrifically strong. With handling, the riced BP on the left will flake and break up, and you'll end up with dust on the bottom, big grains at the top. Despite the work, I do like pressed BP for a number of reasons.

 

http://www.5bears.com/firew/press100.jpg

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The pressed BP tinkles like ceramic when poured in the jar, and the grains are terrifically strong. With handling, the riced BP on the left will flake and break up, and you'll end up with dust on the bottom, big grains at the top. Despite the work, I do like pressed BP for a number of reasons.

 

I always found pressed to be far superior...to the point of being almost too powerful for lift in some cases. What I mean by that is I'd get used to the "riced" and use a similar amount of corned and overlift. Just from your photo, you can discern an approx. 25% increase in "power" per volume.

 

It IS worth the effort of corning your BP.

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Just got in a wicked car wreck... right into a tree me and my 3 friends were all fine, thank god, but the car is totaled and to look at the wreck you would think no one would have lived... I'm in allot of pain and thank god for codine...
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Just got in a wicked car wreck... right into a tree me and my 3 friends were all fine, thank god, but the car is totaled and to look at the wreck you would think no one would have lived... I'm in allot of pain and thank god for codine...

 

 

DUI?

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Hell no, thank God... That's the last thing I need. The kid just decelerated into a sharp curve (40 in a 35) instead of accelerating to hug the road, and he lost control...
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This question may sound strange, but could someone please go to the effort of answering it, with accurate scales, it would help alot.

 

How much does each of the following weigh.

 

4" Hemi (2 halves)

5" Hemi (2 halves)

6" Hemi (2 halves)

 

NOTE: All of the Hemis are paper.

Edited by nick2354
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It can vary due to amount of paste, paper density. etc..

 

Do you have a scale to measure chems?

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It can vary due to amount of paste, paper density. etc..

 

Do you have a scale to measure chems?

 

Yea, but I dont have a 4", 5" or 6" hemi to weigh, and yes I know it will vary.

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Stainless media alert:

 

It's STILL a bit pricey, and a bit small, but someone might jump on it. The cost new would be astronomical. I read about these guys on Passfire. 10mm (3/8") 304 stainless balls for $41 per 1,000. Unfortunately, the minimum order is 4,000 balls. According to the guy on Passfire, 3,000 of them properly filled a gallon jar, so 4,000 should work very well on a big jar, and will last forever, no maintenance required beyond hosing it off.

 

https://www.hooverprecision.com/html/Stock_Liquidation.html

 

Ball mill media is such a common question... if anyone else has some sources they'd like to share, sing out.

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Ahh.. then that does pose a problem for you nick. I dont have hemis to weigh, so unfortunately I cant help much more on this :/
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I'm sorry swede, but your saying its only 41 dollars for 4000 balls, or 164 dollars for a minimum of 4000?
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"It's STILL a bit pricey, and a bit small, but someone might jump on it. The cost new would be astronomical. I read about these guys on Passfire. 10mm (3/8") 304 stainless balls for $41 per 1,000. Unfortunately, the minimum order is 4,000 balls. According to the guy on Passfire, 3,000 of them properly filled a gallon jar, so 4,000 should work very well on a big jar, and will last forever, no maintenance required beyond hosing it off."

 

 

 

Can anyone say Grape shot???

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Remember I was talking about trying to get a hybrid effect using double-decker cut stars?

 

Actually, it seems to be working quite well:

 

 

They burn a bit fast though (both the red & the glitter). We'll see how they look in a shell soon enough.

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Looked really nice mate, did u put NC as a glue between them? to kinda glue them together?
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Both of the stars were bound with NC laquer; I wet them enough with the laquer that I didn't need to put any more in between; I just slapped them together while they were still wet and then cut them.

 

Edit: Just tried "corning" BP for the first time (rather than ricing it) by ramming BP pucks in a makeshift contraption I got from a fellow pyro. Using this method, I could only get the density up to about 1.0 - 1.1 g/cm^3 (though I don't know how much the volume will change upon drying). I guess this illustrates the need for a hydraulic press. However, as long as the 1g/cm^3 stuff works better than ricing for lift, I'll be happy.

 

Gosh, years went by and I never experimented too much with my BP. "OK, it'll lift a shell I'm done."

Edited by flying fish
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I made married stars like this a while ago (red and glitter also), I used a star plate and pressed the glitter then pressed red on top of that, they worked pretty well.
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