frogy Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 I don't think you have either of your products right. The first with the hypochlorite and isopropanol should in no way produce any Cl2, H2, or HCl. I'd say acetone if anything. Actually, it might go all the way to chloroform if an excess of hypochlorite is present. The second, with the HCl and hypochlorite should form chlorine gas and some HCl I beliveve. It's an equilibrium between HOCl + HCl <-> H2O + Cl2 Is there any reason you can't just buy muriatic acid? It's already 31.45%. Or were you looking to generate Cl2?Oh wow, I feel soo stupid... Of course it produces Chloroform... It is a haloform reaction. The formula for it is still quite hard to figure out though...There's quite a few things happening at once...It doesn't really matter to me of not though. Ca(ClO)2 + C3H8O + H2O -> xCH3COCH3 - x - x3Ca(ClO)2 + 2CH3COCH3 -> 2CHCl3 + 2Ca(OH)2 + Ca(COOCH3)22Ca(ClO)2 + 2CO2 -> 2CaCO3 + 2Cl2 + O2 Sorry, this is quite random, but may be a good deal.$7.05 for 1 troy ounce 99.9% silver on eBay.http://cgi.ebay.com/2001-School-1-Troy-Oun...1QQcmdZViewItem Even more wrong is that the reaction I was using was TCCS\TCCA (C3Cl3N3O3) and isopropyl alcohol, not Ca(ClO)2 and alcohol... C3CL3N3O3 definitely produced chlorine when mixed with isopropyl (C3H8O), which I already knew, I just didn't know which reagents I was using Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskarchem Posted May 21, 2008 Share Posted May 21, 2008 Tweetybird88> The link is cached because it was found on Google I think, and I didn't find it, as I said, 50AE did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mormanman Posted May 21, 2008 Share Posted May 21, 2008 Well froggy its art so it doesn't really matter how much silver it is its been shaped into that "shape." If you want a troy oz of silver then just buy an ingot. If you don't know where to get it I will be more than happy to help you with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frogy Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 I would normally buy an ingot, but most are $20/oz... whereas that coin was only $7/troy oz.. which is >1oz [slightly] I still need some OTC NH4NO3... I will check Lowes soon, but I doubt they have.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mormanman Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 I would normally buy an ingot, but most are $20/oz... whereas that coin was only $7/troy oz.. which is >1oz [slightly] I still need some OTC NH4NO3... I will check Lowes soon, but I doubt they have.. Oh I see your reasoning. I would have thought that an ingot would have been cheaper. Anyway, I got started on some rocket tools today. I have a friend hand forging Al coupons into very rough looking circles and then I'll lathe it to a circle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankRizzo Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 I would normally buy an ingot, but most are $20/oz... whereas that coin was only $7/troy oz.. which is >1oz [slightly] I still need some OTC NH4NO3... I will check Lowes soon, but I doubt they have..NH4NO3 is incredibly difficult to find these days. Agrium was the last of the domestic manufacturers, and stopped production back in 2005-2006. Most farmers that would've used it have switched over to cheaper anhydrous ammonia anyway. Lowes would not have it. ACE or one of the local mom-n-pop operations may still have a few bags laying around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 Not to mention most places want (or are required to have) your personal info on their records to sell it to you. Don't know if you've heard of this before but, depending on how much you need, a good non-suspicious source is "Instant cold packs" just make sure they're really AN, I've seen boxes labeled Urea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrKoNaLeaSh1010 Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 The cold packs are another option but work out to about $4.50-$5 per pound compared to the fertilizer which is around $20 for 50lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskarchem Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 Anyone know a tooling supplier other than Wolter and Supremepyro? Because I am on the look for a starplate, and I would like to buy it form supremepyro, but some have given bad feedback on them, and I don't really want to spend like 150$ on one from Wolter... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mormanman Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 Skylighter sells plates I don't know how much. Thats all I know of though unless you make it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psyco_1322 Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 Another option your should look at is making your own. If you dont want to spend the money, but you'll find out real quick why they cost so much. Wolt makes some very nince tools, a star plate from him will not fall apart or break. If used correctly it should last you a life time of use. Its a big investment that your making, maybe to early in the game. A star roller may soot you more better, since they are cheaper and easier to make and require less percision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarezWally Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 Just found a guy who is clearing out his massive workshop, going to get a whole heap of glassware and other assorted goodies for cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskarchem Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 Another option your should look at is making your own. If you dont want to spend the money, but you'll find out real quick why they cost so much. Wolt makes some very nince tools, a star plate from him will not fall apart or break. If used correctly it should last you a life time of use. Its a big investment that your making, maybe to early in the game. A star roller may soot you more better, since they are cheaper and easier to make and require less percision.Your probably right, I wasn't thinking of bying it already, because I have other things on my head, but, I guess that a star roller is not a bad idea, Thanks. BTW; this forum is really getting up to my head, today in history class, the teacher asks when is the national holiday, so I repy; "4th July"... She looks at me as if I was an idiot, wich I am, and I say" Why is it wrong.... shit...that's the american one, it's the 14th here"... Really, too much APC, but I don't care,This forum actually helped me with my english results (My spelling was not so good) It's the end of the year so... Lot's of pyro coming up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justanotherpyro Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 God bless America . I think we should incorporate July 14th, because July 4th just isn't enough anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSidewinder Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 Now THERE'S an idea! A 10-day fireworks celebration! +5 !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flying fish Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 Lampblack is stickier and darker than airfloat charcoal, right? I know it's a dumb question, but I'm pretty sure I returned the bags of each to the wrong (labeled) containers when I was putting away my pyro stuff last year. I spent the day today cleaning up my pyro work area when I noticed this error. Also, has anyone had any experience with United Nuclear? I know they are extremely overpriced, but I needed very small samples of gallium and wood's metal for some work-related experiments (they do indeed specialize in "small samples"), and ordered from them over two weeks ago...still haven't seen a package. They say it can take up to 15 business days, and it hasn't been quite that yet (almost...)but it's still ridiculous that I don't have it yet, in my opinion... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swede Posted May 28, 2008 Share Posted May 28, 2008 EMERGENCY VISCO. Works great. Pros:Waterproof and reliable. Easy to make.Big bonus - completely flexible, moreso than visco. Cons:VERY expensive.Will leave plastic pollution behind.Not quite as much fire as visco. Can be corrected with prime. Take your correctly made and thoroughly dry black match. Cut a piece of electronics heat shrink tubing to the same length. Outside, away from all flammables, CAREFULLY use a heat gun and shrink the tube around the BM. The initiation temp of the BP on the match is not far above the heat shrink, but it is not hard to shrink the tube and not ignite the BM. If you'd like, seal the ends by dipping in NC lacquer, or you can prime too in the same step by rolling the ends in meal. When lit, it's really cool... the tube contains all the fire. You can see an orange glow traveling through the tube. At the other end it will suddenly dump its fire out the tube rather than through the sides, so to amplify that a bit I'd take the business end and prime it as well. Speed - about like visco. Not at all like QM. It was an interesting experiment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swede Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 Just made some very small stars, roughly 1/4" diameter... http://www.5bears.com/firew/ustar01a.jpg They're essentially charcoal streamers with Fe for a bit of glitter and sparkle. These are my first stars, and I'd like to test them properly. For something this small, do I need a like-sized tube to fire one at a time, or can I put 4 or 6 in a mine? Can't wait to see how they do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskarchem Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 You can do both. I personall put 4-5 into a tube, with lift and all of that, it makes kind of a fast mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mormanman Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 odd numbers are appealing to the eyes. Got to go to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquaman Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 Whats going on guys? Long time no talk.... Just got done with highschool a couple of weeks ago and graduated Good times... Anyways July 4th is coming up quick, very quick and I haven't started anything yet. Between work and college shit, I've been so busy. I'll be going to University of Illinois in Urbana to study Chemical Engineering and I've got to say this website and a few others, inspired me to go into this field. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justanotherpyro Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 Does U of I have a chemical engineering degree? I'm in the same kind of program but my Degrees will be in Chemistry and Math-Physics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frogy Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 I'm also going for a Chemical Engineering degree... The "local" college I'm going to has a great engineering program overall, and an even better polymer\adhesives\chemistry program. Akron has a little background in the rubber industry...(*cough*cough* The Rubber Capitol of the World *cough*) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flying fish Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 Ah, that's why I went into physics. So I could be "different" amoung APC forum members. Also so I could play with lasers and liquid N2 and other fun toys that physicists have way too many of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frogy Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 Hahaha.. lasers! You can only imagine what I can make.... I have a short question, that I should readily know 1M Nitric means 1 mol/liter correct? So 63.012*1.51 = 95.148 g/liter... That puts 1M Nitric at 9.5% Nitric, ~90.5% DHMO Please correct me on this if it is at all wrong (in which I would feel stupid, but well deserving of the abuse). Where's a good source of 1M Nitric? I would like to buy some for Nitrating SrCO3\BaCO3 to their respective nitrates. Of course I could just use some azeotrope nitric. Does anyone know the *best* Nitric conc. for nitrating carbonates? Of course it's 126g HNO3 + 147.6g SrCO3, but are there any precautions to overheating and the such that I would need to use a diluted acid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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