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Birdhouse: I don't know much about colored smoke except that it's hard to make.

 

Well it looks like Ill be using a lot of ruby red stars from now on then. Isn't SrNO3 really hydoscopic? I roll my stars do I have to do anything special to dry them?

While I'm at it what is a good titanium to use? I'm sick of trying to get a good tail out of aluminum and I'm willing to pay the extra. What would cover the most effects? I would like sponge but I can't find that anywhere so I'm looking at spherical and is ferrotitanium better or is it just preference?

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hey guys, does anyone know if powdered shirt dyes would make colored smoke

They might. What's the brand name and color? Some of the dyes at JoAnn fabrics are aniline-based, which *will* work as a smoke dye. When a few of us checked on price, they were prohibitively expensive though compared to Keystone.

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Maybe Frank can confirm, but from what I've read, *NONE* of the Rit brand dyes will work.

 

Didn't know Jo-Ann Fabrics carried ANY aniline dyes. Worse comes to worse.....

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I got my strontium nitrate from firefox you have to send in an ID card and they limit to 1LB per year but whatever...
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I have my doubts about that dye. Walmart probably goes for the cheapest source of dye, which generally wont be the aniline base.

 

Strontium nitrate itself is not hygroscopic, however some of it's contaminates are.

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Yeah, I don't think that dye will work. Maybe give it a chance and buy one for future references to see which dyes work?

I've only done colored smoke mixture a few times and the dyes I got here worked perfectly.

Might as well buy a few different brands of dye and give them a shot?

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What about powdered food dyes?Doubt this could work but I remember reading that it could...But just can't remember where...
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Unless you have the MSDS or know whats in it our opinions are worthless to be honest.

 

I suggest you try it and report back, there is a chance it could work perfectly fine and even if it doesn't they dont really cost a lot to buy.

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Wally is correct, check the MSDS for the chemical name. RIT dyes are useless. Look for aniline, AZO, azine, anthraquinone, quinoline, or xanthene dyes. A good starting formula is:

 

Dye: 40

Potassium Chlorate: 24

Lactose: 16

Baking Soda: 4

Dextrin: 2

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So I decided to start chopping up a bit of that brass today, and I took one of these 2x14"x.5" plates, and god damn this is some hard shit! It must be that hard brass, what they call beta brass. It's definitely cast and then ground. It cut about the same speed as stainless. I did a couple cuts on some brass rod stock I picked up, and it cuts like butter in comparison.

 

Anyways, the plan on these plates is to cut it lengthwise, and then cut the 1" wide strips into half inch pieces. This stuff is so hard to cut I'm not going to cut it into .5" cubes or anything. That's crazy talk.

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Oi...Had a motorbike accident coming back from my flying lesson... Bloody dog came out of a turn, and I took a pavement... didn't break any of my bones or my bike, just badly scratched my legs and hands...
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I just synthetised some copper benzoate, I am astonished with the yeiled, I have some 200-300g drying now...
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I feel for you on the bike accident. People driving cars more often than not fail to see motorcyclists. As fun as they are to drive, it is very frustrating having to constantly look for potential problems so that you don't end up getting killed. :(
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here here, it's nerve wracking.
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I've had some close experiences with my bike(4s 125cc yamaha Ttr125le), But near where I live, there is this large desert that has been designated as a off-road playground(Occotillo wells, if anyones' ever heard of it). It can get pretty crowded there, and it gets really dangerous at times, those stupid dune buggies don't seem to watch where the hell there going... One time, one of them came racing perpendicular to the trail I was on, didn't even see me... I had to slam on my brakes, and slide into the nearby ditch to avoid him... Sand doesn't taste very good :wacko: . Probably nothing compared to what you street cyclists have to deal with, but I thought it was relevant :rolleyes:
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Does anyone have any experience with the production of Copper Acetoarsenite (Paris Green)? I am aware of the dangers of the chemical, I'm just curious on the production of it on a small scale. The only synthesis I can find is the Shmizu one. The reason I ask is because I want to make a superior blue, the recent Skylighter newsletter gave some interesting compositions using Paris Green. Is there any substitute for making the "cop-light blue"?

 

The following preparation originates from Shimizu: "300 g of copper sulphate is dissolved in 1000 ml water, to which 250 g of glacial acetic acid is added; This solution is named 'A'. Then 200 g of sodium carbonate and 200 g of ersenious acid are added to 1000 ml water and boiled to form a solution, this is named 'B'. B is added little by little to A with constant stirring. Carbon dioxide gas is generated with active bubbling. When all the solution B has been added, it is boiled for about 30 minutes, when copper acetoarsenite appears gradually as green particles in the solution. The mother liquor is removed by vacuum filtration, and then green substance, copper acetoarsenite, is washed with water until the sulphate ion disappears; it is then dried. The yield is about 180 g."

 

Has anyone tried this? Or have any suggestions?

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Oi...Had a motorbike accident coming back from my flying lesson... Bloody dog came out of a turn, and I took a pavement... didn't break any of my bones or my bike, just badly scratched my legs and hands...

I'm glad you're O.K., but it's a hazard you can't avoid; if you ride long enough you *will* go down. I took it into the trees many years ago to avoid a head-on and to this day I can't turn my head all the way to the left. I went over the handlebars, broke my left arm and a few bones in my wrist, chipped a bone in my leg, messed up two disks in my neck and had to have some gravel scraped out of my eye. Great fun....but I still ride. :D

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So I decided to start chopping up a bit of that brass today, and I took one of these 2x14"x.5" plates, and god damn this is some hard shit! It must be that hard brass, what they call beta brass. It's definitely cast and then ground. It cut about the same speed as stainless. I did a couple cuts on some brass rod stock I picked up, and it cuts like butter in comparison.

 

Anyways, the plan on these plates is to cut it lengthwise, and then cut the 1" wide strips into half inch pieces. This stuff is so hard to cut I'm not going to cut it into .5" cubes or anything. That's crazy talk.

Tentacles - are you sure it's 360 brass? There is a material out there called aluminum bronze that looks like brass but is one nasty-assed material to work with. It makes killer bearings and such, but is unpleasant to cut. Could that be it?

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It could be that, but the pieces look to have been used as tie plates or electrical conductors (one seems to have arc scars). I wish it was the softer, easier to cut stuff, this stuff is ridiculous to cut.

 

Isn't 360 brass the free machining, leaded stuff?

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I just bought a bike a few months back. Its been winter so I havn't even got to ride it much. I had never rode a motorcycle in my life until I bought mine. Its a 2002 600cc 4cylinder, Suzuki Katana. It scares the hell outta me but I love it! :P

 

Not looking forward to crashing it but everyone keeps telling me its bound to happen. Especially on the country roads I live on...I'll probably hit a deer. :rolleyes:

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360 brass is free-machining, sometimes called "screw machine" brass because it is the stuff fed into automated machines that make things like plumbing fittings and such, at high speed. It should cut like butter. Does the brass you have exhibit a sort of blue-grayish cast to it, a bit more than normal brass?
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There's a typo in that synth Xin. It should be Arsenous acid. Arsenous acid doesn't exist outside of solution. You'll have to procure some As2O3, which is rather on the hard side of things to come across.

 

That synth should work. I've seen other references to it's synthesis that are very similar. I believe theres a way to use sodium acetate, sodium arsenate, and copper sulfate, but I could be wrong, and it is purely off of a vague recollection.

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Swede: on the ground parts, where it's oxidized (which is seems quite resistant to doing!) there is a slight grey/blue haze. You're probably right that this stuff is aluminum bronze. I bet it'll still make good milling media :)

 

On another completely random note, I'm working on building a little go-kart. Something tiny, small enough to fit in my trunk. So far I've come up with a design 2ft wide x 4ft long that collapses (using telescoping square tubing) to 2ftx3ft. It will be made of stainless steel as much as possible, I hate painting.

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