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Thanks for the kind sentiments, BlueSquib. So, what are your goals to achieve? Perfecting that 16in brocade chrysanthemum you've been working on? :)

 

Just got back from 4 weeks in Australia and enjoying the feel of my couch on my ass for the first time in a while. I think I'll be home until another jaunt to Aberdeen and London in mid-January, so maybe I'll have a few things made for NYE...maybe a 6in silver wave to start the year out right.

 

I've been a (non-posting) member at E&W for a long time. Whether you agreed with him or not, NBK was an effective, if sometimes heavy-handed moderator. But, when it's your show, you can run it as you please. Sometimes I think we could do with a few more HED's around here... ;)

 

Hope everyone has a green Christmas and all your presents say ORM-D on the tag!

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Yeah, he was very effective as a Mod, And very wise, I think he knew just about evrything on explosives (you can never know evrything) just wish that his DVD was published and that his legacy was given to someone.

 

Just a question; What would ORM-D stand for?

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ORM-D essentially means consumer commodity as I understand it. Stuff that isn't necessarily specialist and the common man might use it for whatever reason... like matches, fuse, butane refills, those butane/isobutane/etc fuel canisters for camping stoves, non-dangerous chemicals like strontium carbonate, etc... though I'm not sure all of those fit ORM-D.

 

I doubt they sell 60mm ID hole cutout bits at the hardware store :(... Looks like I'll have to get as close as I can under that and then wrap with kraft/wood glue to fit for all these starmine tubes. I'm thinking that I'll make a couple 1-3/4" starmines, 1 3" one, then a 3" shell... I don't think I want to risk bigger than that around here... Hope I have enough lift.

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I doubt they sell 60mm ID hole cutout bits at the hardware store :(...

I'f you're talking end plugs, it seems that you could get a 2-1/2" O.D. holesaw, and you'd be pretty close to 60mm I.D. I can't remember the exact saw kerf that they give, but try a "blue mol", and I think you'll be golden. You'll probably have to go to a real lumber yard, not the "big box" orange bastards. (more carpentry related trivia...boring the membership to death....sigh...)

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ORM-D is the lowest hazard classification of the USPS and is unique to the US. It basically covers "consumer commodities" that are:

Flammable Gases

Flammable and Combustible Liquids

Flammable Solids

Oxidizing Substances

Organic Peroxides

Toxic Substances

Corrosives (Liquids And Solids)

Miscellaneous Hazardous Materials like ammunition (my favorite! :D )

 

In other words, if you've been a good little pyro this year, here's hoping that Santa brings you things that burn, go bang, poison Fido, or melt holes through your borosilicate glassware.

 

Cheers.

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Yes, I do believe MgAl is neccesary.

 

ORM-D is hazardous materials that are used in much consumer usage. Cologne(contianing flammable amounts of ethanol), lighters, ligher fluid, charcoal. hair spray, etc.

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A, ok thanks guys.

 

Btw; I was at the airport yesterday and I saw: "No organic peroxydes allowed" aren't organic peroxides TCAP and others?

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Yes. All forms of AP, MEKP (as fibreglass resin hardener or not), etc fall under organic peroxides.

 

Thanks for that hst! Yeah I have an Ace Hardware around here that might have what I need, otherwise I will have to find another store.

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Got a 2.5" hole cutout bit. The plugs resulting from it fit very well in the 60mm mortars without doing anything too them... I just need some more wood... I'm 9/20 plugs... After getting them all out I just need to sand the edges a bit, plug the center holes with pressed wood glue / paper towels or something, then just roughen up the inside of the tubes, apply some wood glue on the inside of the tubes and on the plugs, and pop 'em in. Then 2 or 3 wood screws.
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I actually have some around here somewhere... just never got around to using it for anything before.

 

Was thinking about dark prime/relay stuff a bit this evening.

 

Firework stands are opening up again soon if not already... Going to stock up on crackling balls or whips to pillage eggs perhaps.

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That flash is relativistically slow compared to say 70:30 Perc:Al. The composition will still burn very fast. What kind of effect are you going for?

I want to make a flare composition. Because aluminium is very bright and easy to optain, I want to try with it. The only problem is that the composition will burn very hot, so I'll not make holding flares.

 

Sorry for late answer.

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i am trying to make green flames using copper (ll) oxide i used denatured alcohol and got ok results apparently for better flame color i can use methanol where would i get methanol?
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Windshield washer fluid, "heet" brand gas line deicer, some anti-freezes. All may contain methanol. Except for the heet, all should probably be distilled.

 

Mainly you will get better results with a soluble copper salt. Try copper chloride or acetate.

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If anybody cares.... Lithium Salicylicate is non hydroscopic salt of lithium that might have some potential usage in pyrotechnics if you are the least bit interested in exotic reds. If I could I would see if this stuff could be used in whistle rockets but I do not have a means of grinding this stuff.

 

Anywho I tested a rocket of mine and got some semi positive data from the failed launch[finally found a legit spot!!!]. My rocket went about 3-5 feet into the air before the nozzle shot out because I forgot to glue some stuff down :rolleyes: . PVC pressure pipe(2x the PSI rating vs standard) handled the NH4ClO4 composite much better than I had expected. I think after a few minor corrections I will finally get something in the air.

 

 

EDIT:

Does anyone know of a better castable refactory material besides Durhams water putty? I think I will get at best two launches from my nozzle.

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Is HDPE the black pipe hardwear stores sell next to the PVC? If not I'm boned out the butt like hardcore.
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Look on the pipe, if it's black it should say something like cellular core ABS, or HDPE, if it's bigger than about 1 1/2'' it's probably ABS.

Could I use ABS?

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no ABS is just as brittle as PVC they will both shatter in the event of an accident filling full of shards of ABS HDPE is much better alot harder to break and if it does break instead of razor sharp shrapnel coming ant you and 90 miles per hour it will be big chunks...(they are easier to dodge..i guess)

 

 

 

dont be cheap isn't your life worth 9 bucks for a piece of HDPE from kastner or pyrogear?

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sorry for the double post i was wondering if anyone can tell me how to synthesize copper sulfate from copper oxide and sulfuric acid (ratios procedures) i only want 30-50g if i anted more i would just buy it of ebay or something.
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dont be cheap isn't your life worth 9 bucks for a piece of HDPE from kastner or pyrogear?

Well I just don't have that time. I think I'll just go to a fireworks stand and but a 3 and 4" mortar and shell then just reload them. Its that only thing I can think of doing.

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