flying fish Posted September 21, 2007 Posted September 21, 2007 I was able to write a 6 page paper on the different classes of people within a pyro group. I made most of it up. Really, who is going to be able to check? And yes, I think there is enough info around to write a paper like that. I would make sure you have access to things like FAST, Lancaster, and the fulcanelli papers to really be able to do it. It will be hard to write an entirely non-technical paper, but I think it could be done. Perhaps go over evolution of the different techniques in different parts of the world. IE Japan uses ball shells, and Italy mainly canisters. Talk about different effects, and pairings maybe.Hehe.... I put off this paper, and I still think I want to do it on the History of fireworks. But does anyone know if there are any downloadable resources online (hopefully which don't cost an arm and a leg)? There are a couple books I will put in an interlibrary loan (ILL) request for tomorrow bright and early, but by Monday I should already have a pretty good idea of how the paper is going to go so that I can talk about it in front of class! And those ILL books won't be here until after the weekend! The paper isn't due until next Friday, but as I said the short (5 min) presentation is on Monday. So I at least need a start by then. If I absolutely can't get any information over the web, I will probably change my topic to American Photographers from the early 20th century. Either that or Super Mario, I haven't decided yet .
crazyboy25 Posted September 21, 2007 Posted September 21, 2007 i was planning on making sodium with this tutorial found on the old forum http://www.sas.org/E-Bulletin/2001-10-05/chem/column.html it says:"For the cathode take an 8 inch length of 16 or 18 gauge iron wire and form a loop about 5 mm in diameter at one end." first of all is IRON necessary? i have no idea where i would get it if it is necessary where do i get it if not what can be used instead.
hst45 Posted September 21, 2007 Posted September 21, 2007 iis IRON necessary? i have no idea where i would get itAt any construction site, look for the tie wire used to tie re-bar together. That's 16 gauge iron. If you can't scrounge any you can buy a 5# roll for about $4.00.
asilentbob Posted September 21, 2007 Posted September 21, 2007 The iron chromate was mostly because its cheap and there... I would try it as a catalyst and possibly try making various chromium compounds from it. You could use a very big nail.
flying fish Posted September 21, 2007 Posted September 21, 2007 If I absolutely can't get any information over the web, I will probably change my topic to American Photographers from the early 20th century. Either that or Super Mario, I haven't decided yet .Over 2.300.000 linksshould give you enough to read until Monday I keep my fingers crossed for you, I easily remember how I hated to do recitations in school. It would be nice though if you would do the paper and share it with us. It's always interesting to see another one's aspects. Thanks for your support! I initially didn't find anything usefull on google search, but I spent a little more time combined with some improved searching methods... and I managed to find and download an "E-book" copy of a ~200 page book on the history of fireworks! There were, as you pointed out, alot of firework history articles right in plain sight on google, but they didn't really go into enough depth. The other book I already plan on using, I just put in a ILL request for. It is looking like this paper is going to work out after all. I may also try to find some more technical articles (e.g. from pyrotechnica) on shell construction (hopefully based on different countries and traditions) and such for the sake of being able to elaborate on the shell construction. Of course, I still have to somehow keep it mostly non-technical and relate it to the class. But that's what BS-ing is all about!
mormanman Posted September 21, 2007 Posted September 21, 2007 Hey. I got a question. Could one make a canister shell thread for say the newbie Topic?
crazyboy25 Posted September 22, 2007 Posted September 22, 2007 ok im frustrated i think electro chemistry is way cool but annoying as hell first i found if copper is used as a cathode i can filter the precipitate (copper(l) oxide) which is red this could be heated to form copper (ll) oxide unfortunately copper (l) oxide yield was...small really really small. so i gave up then i heard switching the copper to the anode made copper (ll) oxide hooray no extra steps right? WRONG i ended up with alot more but id say about 5g MAX is this black copper oxide is there a way to test? then i heard heating copper then oxidizing made copper (ll) oxide i ended up with several small black flakes are these copper oxide? is there a way to test next i heard add copper sulfate solution to lye and you get coper (ll) opxide i did it and i got black slush then lots of heat and fumes i dumped it. was this copper oxide is this normal also my copper sulfate is probably really impure its a fungicide less then 80% pure will this work if not were do i get copper sulfate CHEAP? thanks im done ranting. PS: i swear if chem ever become really hard to get and i have to synthesize them im quitting pyro like that. PPS: copper oxide is black but with redish outside in burn tests it was very yellow showing high sodium contamination trashed the batch looks like the only way is lye and copper sulfate ideas? theories? sources for dirt cheap pure copper sulfate? PPPS: sorry copper sulfate on ebay for 11 bucks what do i want cupric copper sulfate or pentahydrate does it matter?
DeAdFX Posted September 22, 2007 Posted September 22, 2007 Brute force heat the bejebus out of copper (II) sulfate? Howabout heating copper (II) oxide to ~500 some C and then using hydrogen gas to reduce it?
asilentbob Posted September 22, 2007 Posted September 22, 2007 Whats the logic in buying copper(II) sulfate and sodium hydroxide to make copper(II) oxide... when you can just buy copper(II) oxide?
crazyboy25 Posted September 22, 2007 Posted September 22, 2007 i guess your right but i have sodium hydroxide and if i got copper sulfate i could theoretically make copper oxide AND copper benzoate copper benzoate alone is like $25 a pound but...i guess it isn't really worth the effort.
frogy Posted September 23, 2007 Posted September 23, 2007 Couple of questions... Do you think this pulverone will lift 2", 2.5", and 3" shells?http://img.youtube.com/vi/kngwO_Itlg8/1.jpg And what is a good ratio for White Pine core burning meal powder... This is 3 hour 60:30:10... way to fast http://img.youtube.com/vi/JVBsNGMKp6M/3.jpg
Pretty green flame Posted September 23, 2007 Posted September 23, 2007 Re: Lift powderI think your lift powder will do OK, i've seen some pretty bad BP lift 3" shells to a decent height Re: Core burner 6:3:1 should be fine, i'd just cut down on milling time a bit, mill it for 2 hours and see if your rockets fly to heaven or hell Cheers
frogy Posted September 23, 2007 Posted September 23, 2007 PS:Here's the tooling that the rockets were CATOing like hell on... Tooling:http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/5851/toolingiv4.th.jpg Spindle with reference:http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/5217/spindlerefference2rt1.th.jpg Judging by how fast it is... could you tell me to add 5% or 10% more charcoal and mill for a half hour more or so? PS: Using a router on circles is hard No lathe... done completely with scroll saw \ electric drill + files\sandpaper Edit:Another PS:I made a few 1/4" by 2" rockets to test how long of a core to make... The grains were exactly 10 eights of an inch... so it was easy to test 3/10, 5/10, and 7/10 long cores... The 3/10th one barely flew... the 5/10th one flew decently, but sort of slow... the 7/10th core instantly jumped over 100 feet in the air... I'm very surprised it didn't cato... Those were drilled out with an 3/32" drill bit... so they had a pretty big nozzle compated to their size... and their grain is so long, so a core doesn't do much if it's only 7/10" The wood tooling for 3/8" rockets I made creates perfect nozzles about 1/2 of the 3/8" diameter tapering to about 1/4 of 3/8"... Since it's 1/2 the diameter instead of the more common 1/3... it should be able to accept faster fuels... but I guess mines just to fast Lol and I was laughing at this video I just uploaded to Imageshack... It's the first time I've tried using there video format... Pretty funny what it did to one of my salute shells (yes the mortar is PVC, but I was pretty far away behind a shed hehe...http://img532.imageshack.us/my.php?image=b...teattempeb8.flv
weknowpyro Posted September 23, 2007 Posted September 23, 2007 Crazyboy25: Ok, this a bit late but I barely read peoples post's fully so I only just replied.In our biology course we just did a load of work on reducing sugars. Well, Benedict’s solution contains Cu(II)SO4 and NaOH. So when this solution comes into contact with a reducing sugar (most monosaccerides are reducing), the copper sulphate gains an electron and then reacts with the sodium hydroxide to form red precipitate (copper (I) oxide). During the experiment we used about 1ml of Benedict’s to 2ml glucose, from eye observation it produced about 0.5g CuO, which you can then filter and allow to dry. Then you can try and convert it to Cu(II)O. Just thought I would share this as it seems like an easier way for you to gain more red copper oxide.
Draco_Aster Posted September 25, 2007 Posted September 25, 2007 Are you using 60 - 30 (10 coarse/very small grained, 20 airfloat) -10 green mix? Thats what I use with my 1lb commercial tooling. It looks as though your spindle is a wee bit small, if you want dimensions for 3/4" tooling (or even want me to make a stainless/aluminium set with my lathe) the PM me mate.
mormanman Posted September 26, 2007 Posted September 26, 2007 Hey I need some help. You guys know about the big "O" rings some of you use for your ball mills; well, I want one for mine. So where do you get them? I went to Ace and they didn't, I'll check Lowes/Home Depot next.
crazyboy25 Posted September 26, 2007 Posted September 26, 2007 in helicopters is the exhaust hole drilled in straight to the clay and comp or does it have to be at an angle?
Mumbles Posted September 26, 2007 Posted September 26, 2007 I got mine at Menards. Might not have any in Texas though. I think it's rather a midwest chain. They should be near the water purification/filtration things. Probably in the plumbing section.
asilentbob Posted September 26, 2007 Posted September 26, 2007 When the belt broke on my "Thumler's Tumbler" we used a big O ring for vacuum cleaners or something... so you might want to bring your mill with you in the car to a place with vacuum cleaners, then get some packs of O rings and see which look to fit, then return the others if possible. Stores to check IMO would be Ace Hardware, Mom and Pop style hardware stores, Home Depot, and Lowes. In that order. Oh and if anyone didn't know... a easy "secret" for prolonging the life of your belts is to take the tension off of them when the mill isn't in use... Just pop it off the gears and let it take its normal shape.... otherwise they will get stiff and start looking like old rubber bands faster. Also UV is a no-no... but pretty much everyone knows that.
Dr. Hextromeister Posted September 26, 2007 Posted September 26, 2007 Has anyone found a supplier that sells decent ball mills in the UK?/or that ship to the UK? Ebay US has many listed, although all don't seem to want to ship over seas.. My homemade one has lost it's charm.. Now I feel the need to get a nice portable small unit.
asilentbob Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 As far as i have seen the hole is straight into the tube, and the whole tube is angled when attaching the wing so that the hole is pointing down to the ground at a 45 degree angle... ish. I would think that putting the kind of spin that one would get from having the exhaust hole off to the side like on stingers would give hummers a weird off balance take off, if any.
crazyboy25 Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 thanksi may have some questions later regarding wing placement (not sure which way the wings should face.)
frogy Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 If your making the wings with pop-sickle\craft sticks you heat them up with a candle or hot water and twist the side thats in your right hand counter-clockwise as if looking at it from the right side... And turn the one in the left hand counter-clockwise as if you were looking at it from the left side (turn it away from you)... This creates a counter-clockwise or "right handed" propeller 45 degree angles seem to work good, but I'm sure 30 degree and such would be fine... With a right handed propeller you want to put the propeller on the driver in a fashion that it forms a 130 degree angle with the nozzle... You want the nozzle on the left side of the propeller if your looking from above... Here's a good tutorial from PyroGuide by Pudi:http://pyroguide.com/index.php?title=Helicopter
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