Seymour Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Do I laugh or cry!!! My advice for green stars is this... High metal, Barium nitrate, High chlorine. Essentially Kyle Kepley's Emerald green Unless you want to mess with Barium chlorate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psyco_1322 Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 So why did you have to "hack" Reapers account and I guess "fire" him? I'm always interested in past APC events. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebobman Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 Well thank you everyone for the interesting formulas... definetly something to mull over when I'm looking at buying chems.I figured out my semi-strobe white star formula: White Semi-Strobe20% mg filings65% KNO3. powdered15% sucrose, powdered Powder all the chems together then add 5% dextrin by weight and moisten with 50/50 water and isopropyl alcohol.I then cut them into microstars about 3-4mm cubed. They seem to work well in small 1" ball shells, they give kind of a white, supercharged tigertail look. By the way, I thought that Blindreeper left the old forum just a short while before this board was up? I thought maybe he was here under a different screen name... but it looks like the old board got seriously hacked because there are some really weird things going on with it at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilauzirika Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 Thanks for this formulas, they are great for people that don't want to touch chlorates and perchlorates, but want to make some nice stars.One question thoug, wcan you use spherical 250mesh Al instead of using spherical 325 mesh Al for glitter comps?, that's all I have acces to for now.... Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pogue1000 Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 So is kno3 based stars "safer" to work with then chlorates and percholates?Just getting some chems for my first stars and kno3 was the route i was going to take. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ericz Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 (edited) I thank you all for the compo's BUT i think that the word meal is too big , u can mill it from 1 to 24 hours and that makes a big different in speed.Isnt it better to say 75:15:10 mix , and then the hours milled and what kind of C.If i would make a star with meal and 5 % Ti , it would burn up in no time. Ofcourse you can test it but evrybody makes meal different.GrtzMy english is bad so sorry for the bad typing. I hope u all understand it. Edited October 1, 2009 by Ericz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 No one's stars are the same, so the quality of meal won't make or break the effect. Nearly everyone I know understands "meal" as a lift or burst suitable powder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ericz Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Yes , but isnt that too fast for stars I mean , if u use the meal what i use for breaks and lifts i think its way too fast for stars. When i get some new kno3 i think i just make some tests with 1 to 24 hours meal. I dont care its cost a little time but i know there will be much different effects !Grtz. Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ventsi Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Relating to this post: White Semi-Strobe20% mg filings65% KNO3. powdered15% sucrose, powdered I found I got a very nice crackling suitable for a Time Rain effect by adding coarse Mg powder to BP using sugar instead of sulfur. That was way back in the day though. Perhaps someone can try it since I haven't got any more Mg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Relating to this post: I found I got a very nice crackling suitable for a Time Rain effect by adding coarse Mg powder to BP using sugar instead of sulfur. That was way back in the day though. Perhaps someone can try it since I haven't got any more Mg. Any problems with wetting the comp? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ventsi Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 I used NC lacquer, it was more of a mess around project FYI.You'll have to tweak the mesh size and amount of Mg for maximum results.The stuff I used was uncoated flakes, so don't do that, coated granular would probably behave better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 KNSU is hygroscopic and nitrates can react nastily with metals (and you cant add boric acid because it is mg) so would probably be best not to wet it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Potassiumchlorate Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 *BUMP BUMP* Improvement of Davis' White antimony(III)sulfide stars: Potassium nitrate 64Sulfur 18Antimony(III)sulfide 14Dextrin 4 These are very cheap and simple and work well in starmines and small shells like 2". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lejonpyro Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 I guess compositions with KNO3 are more relevant than ever since KClO4 and KClO3 is getting banned within the European Union. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niladmirari Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 *BUMP BUMP* Improvement of Davis' White antimony(III)sulfide stars: Potassium nitrate 64Sulfur 18Antimony(III)sulfide 14Dextrin 4 These are very cheap and simple and work well in starmines and small shells like 2". I used black Antimony(III)sulfide. Does not work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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