Using old VCR/TV for IR E-fire

[Yankie]

I have (at least I hope I still have) an old VCR with remote control, I was thinking could you salvage the reveiver and have a remote firing system. Even if the signal isn't strong enough for a long distance you can put Al foil around the IR diode to amplify it IIRC. Would it also be possible to have several channels from the one remote? (1-9, or if you were tricky 1-99)

[XYPHER]

I have (at least I hope I still have) an old VCR with remote control, I was thinking could you salvage the reveiver and have a remote firing system. Even if the signal isn't strong enough for a long distance you can put Al foil around the IR diode to amplify it IIRC. Would it also be possible to have several channels from the one remote? (1-9, or if you were tricky 1-99)

 

Yes, it can be done but it is not very effective outdoors. you could in theory program as many cues as you wanted as long as you were able to build a reciever board to read the data and only respond to those specific cues from the remote. i.e. cue 1 plus enter to fire.Or cue 123 plus Enter to fire.

[mike_au]

Personally I don't think IR is terribly well suited to pyrotechnic needs. It is short range, needs line of sight and wouldn't work if there is smoke or bright light around the receiver.

 

It might be OK for setting off a fountain or two, but I don't think it would be worth the hassle for anything else.

[TheSidewinder]

And then there are the safety issues... which are less concerned with ensuring that a system FIRES things, than they are with making sure it DOESN'T fire anything when it's claiming to be in "safe" mode (or turned off).

[Yankie]

Ok then, I have designed a 4x4 E-fire device on Circuit Wizard at school. I have replaced the E-matches with LEDs and i am using a 9v battery, the LEDs explode in the simulator as there is no resistor. Would a 9v battery (or a bank of several) have anywhere near enough power to set off an E match? Are there any alternatives to motorbike batteries and the like. It would be much easier for me to make a bank of 9v or torch batteries ect. I have a rechargable 6v spot light battery, would this be better than a normal 6v battery?

[Boomer]

Very probably yes, rechargeable batteries are usually lead acid (big ones) or packs of some 1.2V Ni/Cd cells (Nickel/Cadmium, older type, only used for their higher peak currents today) resp. 1.2V Ni/MH cells (Nickel/Metalhydride). All of these give much higher current than non-rechargeable ones of the same size. E.g. a walkman-size (mignon, AA) Ni/Cd cell back in the 1980s had 0.5 Ah (Amp-hours) capacity but when shorted fried most meters at 20-30 Amps. Today you get them with 2.6 Ah or whatnot, though the gain is mostly in capacity, not peak current.

 

I don't know much about the peak current capability of Li batteries (3V) or Li accumulators (3,7V) that are in *all* new 'toys' like cell phones, PDAs, laptops that used to have Ni/MH except for the top brands 3 years ago. Only sure they are not known for power, more for capacity/durability. For cell phones, think 0.5-1 A charging, 1-3A max. discharge.

 

And forget the VCR remote, with no degree in electrical engineering one is unlikely to reverse-engineer the circuit up to a level that allows access to what data it receives. In other words, some tracks go from the remote receiver IC straight to the VCR's main processor, and only some Chinese guy knows what protocol language the two chips are speaking. You might be able to pick up the signal that enables the main supply (if it's 'green' with <1W stand-by) whenever *any* button is pressed, but this won't give you 16 channels.

[Sylar]

I would recommend against a Li power cell for safety reasons.

Check out youtube for what happens when you short circuit the battery of a laptop.

 

With a good current control/limit (fused main power line, resistor in series, ...) I think you will find that the Li battery can definately put out enough amps though.

[GearGuy2001]

I used to race Radio Control Cars (1/10 Scale Electric) and we at the time used NiMH batteries but now I believe its either NiMH or Li. I know they have made some more advancements but when I raced 3300mAH was common so 3.3AH and that was with 6x 1.2V Sub C (size) batteries wired in Series.

 

You may want to check out some of these links for battery ideas if you havent already figured something out

Li- http://www.teamassociated.com/reedy/new/batteries_lipo.htm

NiMH- http://www.teamassociated.com/reedy/new/batteries_ib4600.htm

[Arthur]

Cabled controls are secure from rogue triggers, Radio remotes for fireworks have coded transmission to secure the link, Infra red for domestic hi-fi has NO security. there are a few standard systems (hence the multi user after market remotes ) and NO coding because a/ it doesnt matter if you miss a press you can jist go bact to there again, and b/ It doesnt matter because there is only one remote per room.

[Mindphreak]

A nine volt is enough to set off your fireworks. I've had bad experiences when working with IR leds, particularly because I find setting up a circuit that you can't see the results is frustrating. Although you can see ir leds light up through digital/cell phone cameras.

Anyways, you probably do not need a bank of batteries. Unless you already have your ematches you might want to try this. Ever done the steel wool and battery experiment in gradeschool? By connecting steel wool to the battery it cathces fire. Instead of steel wool, use nichrome, which is found in clothes dryers exept at to big a diameter. Might want to try a toaster oven (extract the wire that grows read while heating) and see if that sufficiently heats up with a 9 volt. Coat it with a 70/30 mixture of bp and Nitrocellulose lacquer (from ping pong balls) and you've got yourself a low power emathc. Probably could even use steel wool if you don't want to find nichrome.

Hacking a remote could prove hard. If I were you I'd hack a small R/C car. Hook the wheel motor connections up to some transisters with your nine volt and ematch and you should be good to go. If that's too complicated, you could always just mechanically complete the circuit with the rotating wheels.

Make sure theres no other r/c cars around .

[bret]

I have (at least I hope I still have) an old VCR with remote control, I was thinking could you salvage the reveiver and have a remote firing system. Even if the signal isn't strong enough for a long distance you can put Al foil around the IR diode to amplify it IIRC. Would it also be possible to have several channels from the one remote? (1-9, or if you were tricky 1-99)

 

Here is an easier and SAFER alternative.

 

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Pro-Fire-Fireworks-Rem...bayphotohosting

[DontBlink]

I dont know if it`s mentioned..?

the frequency of a remote is very common.. anything sets it off!

nevermind it`s very weak so you`d have a short range thing.

Even the most remotes are on the same frequency, only different functions.

 

I`d say bin it.

 

Better use a cellphone and call it.

[DontBlink]

LOL you got me inspired.

Worldwide detonator.

You can set it off waching the tele.

[DontBlink]

As for the thought.

You might wanna check if it vibrates when you turn it on...

Buzzer might be more practical.

Uhm yea.. Maybe i`ll start my own topic sum day.

 

Cheers.