Swede Posted May 26, 2008 Posted May 26, 2008 I did a primitive test of vacuum BM vs. standard BM, and from what I've seen (it's not quite 100% dry yet) the vacuum BM was significantly quicker and more potent. Once the samples are 100% dry, I'll do a side by side BM race to see which one is fastest. But it looks good. I also like the idea of winding some BM on a circular form. The cotton string I used I bought at a local sewing store. It came in different styles - some of it was looser, like a skein of yarn, other balls of string were tighter. The loose skeins of cotton string were designed to pull out lengths as needed, and neatly unravel without tangling. I wonder if it would be possible to put an intact skein into the BP slurry, vacuum it, then remove it intact and unspool (squeegee) directly onto a drying form.
Pretty green flame Posted May 26, 2008 Posted May 26, 2008 Swede, did you use the same technique as for the vacuum tubes?
Richtee Posted May 26, 2008 Posted May 26, 2008 I wonder if it would be possible to put an intact skein into the BP slurry, vacuum it, then remove it intact and unspool (squeegee) directly onto a drying form. Think it's loose enough wound to allow a good penetration? Vac helps but if there's little "airspace" to remove, will it work? Guess it's worth a shot tho. Let us know~!
marks265 Posted May 26, 2008 Posted May 26, 2008 Actually, using complete spools was my first experiment. I had smaller string and it did penetrate pretty good (color wise). But it was still a lot whiter looking towards the center. I actually was able to use it but it burned a lot slower. I would have to say that the spool acts as a filter and the center of the "filter" would get less fuel . I would be interested in how well a larger string would work. I can't remember exactly what I used but I will generalize it as a very large sewing thread. SO it was a smaller dia. string for match. Now I use a larger string from wally world called "peaches and creme"It is bigger than it needs to be. But if you want to throw fire down on pipe, bigger is better LOL! I make 4 foot leaders for my 6" shells and they burn quick!
Mumbles Posted May 26, 2008 Posted May 26, 2008 The fastest match I've ever used is all multi-strand. I picked up a few rolls of 5 strand flat match, and I am worried it is going to tear it self off the shell at times before it lights the lift. All I make anymore is thinner match, about crossmatch size. Single strands for crossmatching, and multiple for quickmatch. It's not as consistent as the larger stranded stuff I had been making(jumps around), so I don't use it for fusing test items.
TheSidewinder Posted May 27, 2008 Posted May 27, 2008 Are you talking about that blue-plastic wrapped QM from the PGI in '06? If so, yeah, that stuff is explosively fast.
Swede Posted May 27, 2008 Posted May 27, 2008 Haha, Marks, I have that same "Peaches and Cream" string! It's exceptionally heavy/fluffy multistrand cotton, and works well. Kind of embarrassing buying Peaches and Cream string, but who cares. PGF, all I did for the first basic test was to create two identical BP slurries, maybe 2" in the bottom of two cups, put in a piece of string, and stirred/mashed it around. Then one went under the vacuum pump. After vacuuming, both got a basic squeegee through my fingers, as consistent as could be, and hung to dry. In theory, a whole skein of string should vacuum impregnate OK so long as a couple of conditions are met - the slurry may have to be a bit thinner than normal, and each and every inch of string must be somewhat surrounded by enough BP so when the vacuum pulls the air, it will be replaced by an adequate amount of slurry. But I think in practice it won't be practical. Idea - take two round containers that nest, yet permit some space between them. Into the larger goes the BP slurry. Wind the string in a single (maybe two or more) layers on the outside of the smaller round form. Put something heavy inside the small form, and then put the smaller into the larger. The slurry should rise to cover the string, and the weight should keep the two together. Vacuum, unwind, hang, and dry.
Mumbles Posted May 27, 2008 Posted May 27, 2008 That'd be the stuff sidewinder. I've been using it as the passfire from the time fuse in my shells to the center of the shell. I figure if it explodes inside, all it is going to do is help the burst. I have been using the slower "single" strand stuff from precocious lately. I say "single" because it is about 16 individual strands globbed together into a single mass. It still burns pretty quick. However, on some of my videos you can hear a distinct delay between when the leader lights, and the lift goes off. The fuse can get pinched off if you tie on the lift bag too tight, or it gets pinched against the wall of a canister shell. I also want to conserve the good stuff for shell building, as I'm not sure if it will ever be available again. Mark said he pulls a vacuum 2 or 3 times. I'd think a little stir and squeeze in between could ensure everything is adequately impregnated.
Richtee Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 Tried this today...most excellent results! I did not heat anything tho, just used BP fresh out of the mill. Be sure to tie a knot in the end you will string from..it all kinda gets sucked into one big lump. But the distribution of slurry was excellent. Note to self: Use thicker slurry...some got sucked into my vac sealer. Bear to get out. Hmm I notice after a few days... perhaps it's not quite right. 2 fails of my QM outta 6 shells. My first QM failures in oh hell.. months. God that's embarrasing. Small bends seem to kill this BM/QM. Choked it out with bends I never had trouble with my thicker coated "dixie cup" method. Gonna double strand the next pipes. It's STILL easier to make even if it takes a double strand.
ULTRABUF Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 My god mark, this is such an ingenious idea! I also have always hated making bm, but now it seems the times are changing. Just in time for the fourth too. Awesome.
50AE Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 Hmm, I feel like an idiot, because I've never used vacuum sealing. Do I need bags only, or also a special machine for sealing ? I understood the method, but don't know anything about this vacuum thing. And I would really like to improve my black match
marks265 Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 I googled "seal a meal" for you. http://www.seal-a-meal.com/ Is there anything else you need? I hate too sound rude but it was an easy find! So yes there is a machine that sucks the air out and then heat seals the bag to maintain a vacuum when sealed. Just another kitchen gadget that can be picked up at a rumage sale or thrift shop. I actually reuse the bags a couple of times before they get too short to use.
50AE Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 Thanks, and sorry. I was kind of tired. That device looks good, I would buy it for my mum. But not only for her use
TheSidewinder Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 Trust me, if you use it for the above, your Mom then won't want to.
Swede Posted June 9, 2008 Posted June 9, 2008 Update - I was looking on Cole Palmer and eBay for vacuum-related things, and I was reminded of a consumer product that I have used in the past, but not with Pyro. They are self-contained storage bins that have a built-in vacuum pump. Here is an example: http://www.tedpella.com/desiccat_html/Sample-Storr.htm The ones on the bottom (rectangular) are especially interesting. I have used these sorts of containers, and they do work. You cannot hand-pump a vacuum as deep as you can with a real vacuum pump, but if you want to experiment with vacuum-impregnating tubes, or especially experimenting with black match, this is a cheap and convenient way to get into the game. Another bonus - easy to clean, and if you are messing with harsh solvents, you are not putting an expensive pump at risk. One final benefit - vacuums naturally dessicate. if you need to get something dry a bit faster, one of these might help, especially if you lined the bottom with an anhydrous salt like calcium chloride. http://www.tedpella.com/desiccat_html/16195-16196.jpg
Photon_Junkie Posted June 25, 2008 Posted June 25, 2008 Hi everyone,On a similar note, my black match is explosively fast. Tonight I tested a 30" piece that was in 27" of paper tube that I made. It was 3 strings of BM. I had both ends lightly taped to keep the BM from sliding around. And man...it went off with a bang that was almost like flash. My ears are still ringing. Is it supposed to be this fast? Wouldn't the explosive nature of the BM disrupt some of the construction of shells and mines? I am kinda confused. I will post videos as soon as I get them edited. I appreciate any opinions.
DeepOvertone Posted June 25, 2008 Author Posted June 25, 2008 Try going down to 2 pieces of match instead of 3. I think that if you went to only one the reliability might be comprimised. Also try it without the tape.
Mumbles Posted June 25, 2008 Posted June 25, 2008 I use lightning fast quickmatch and have never had a problem. 5 strand flat match generally. It burns just like you describe, explosively. I use it to pass fire from the time fuse to the center of my shells, and it works perfectly for this. I tie the top off additionally to give it a little extra punch too. I've never had a problem with it at all. No hang fires, no ripping itself out of the lift bag, no blowing fuses blind, etc. The tiniest bit of closeure on the ends can certainly make a world of difference. It's burning faster than the tape can burn or break away.
Photon_Junkie Posted June 26, 2008 Posted June 26, 2008 Here is the video of both. the first is my standard black match....I don't know why I used the term "piping"...it was late! The little "spurt" on the first video is where I had taped the two together. The second is my black match inside tubing. Blackmatch
Bonny Posted June 26, 2008 Posted June 26, 2008 That QM looks great. Mine does that sometimes, while other times it seems to start slow and then blast through the pipe.
frogy Posted June 26, 2008 Posted June 26, 2008 Wow, that BM looked like it burned really slow unconfined... Maybe mine is just damn fast... I do use Willow Lift BP for coating it though I use 2 strands and it basically explodes even with vents on the ends.
SjeefOne Posted July 22, 2011 Posted July 22, 2011 (edited) Hi, I've been trying to find a good working way to make some blackmatch and today went with making loops and tying them together (like asilentbob).After that I kneaded the paste into the string and all went well but is there any trick to keep the loop from tangling? I was trying to untangle the black spaghetti but had to cut it because it was tangled to bad at some point. There must some very smart way of avoiding this right? Soon I'll be getting one of these puppies then I'll try the vacuuming thing as well, very nice idea!! Edited July 22, 2011 by SjeefOne
Mumbles Posted July 22, 2011 Posted July 22, 2011 After you roll your loop, try tying them off with a few rings of string. Maybe 2 or 3 around the ring to somewhat keep it organized. It really helps to prevent tangling. I also like to tie the end of the string off to one of them so I can easily find it. I normally made around 150ft per roll and never had to cut mine. Yes, they tangle, but it was never anything I couldn't take care of.
SjeefOne Posted July 23, 2011 Posted July 23, 2011 After you roll your loop, try tying them off with a few rings of string. Maybe 2 or 3 around the ring to somewhat keep it organized. It really helps to prevent tangling. I also like to tie the end of the string off to one of them so I can easily find it. I normally made around 150ft per roll and never had to cut mine. Yes, they tangle, but it was never anything I couldn't take care of. Allright thanks Mumbles. I did do exactly that. Maybe I'll try some bigger loop as well, and wind it more without the threads crossing.I think that should help too.
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