Black Match

[DeepOvertone]

I want to know If you use it, when do you use it, whats your approach to making it.. Do you dust it after you make it, do you presoak your string with a kno3 solution? Tell me all about your black match method. I've made some of my own and read plenty of "how to's and they are all differnet. Any secrets I should know about?

[mike_au]

I use BM for almost everything, since fuse is a little hard to come by around here.

 

I've made a few different types and so far plain old MP + dextrin on a dry cotton string would be my choice for most situations.

 

I don't think there is any one "best" method, it comes down to personal preference and intended use.

 

I haven't tried rolling in meal after making it, I don't see any real benefits.

 

Presoaking with KNO3 can improve reliability but it can also greatly increase the risk of a hang fire.

 

Mixing in a small amount of newspaper pulp can reduce crumbling although it slows it down slightly and it doesn't work anywhere near as well for QM.

 

Coating in NC laquer will make it water resistant, though again, slower and not as good for QM.

 

I am experimenting with a cool new BM idea at the moment, I'll post if/when I get it working.

[DeepOvertone]

Thanks I'm not looking for a "best method" I just want to know what everyone else does. I would think that dusting with meal might make it a tad faster for use in quick match. The only batch I've made was made with regular dry white cotton string and not dusted. It burns very reliably in the open but it doesnt seem to compare to other peoples when in a match pipe. I've seen other peoples match literally explode as soon at it hits the pipe. Mine has a tiny delay then quickly ramps up to a quickmatch like speed. Its more of a whoosh then a poof. I also made some interesting fuse using a formula I was messing around with a long time ago. It has zinc in it and its bound with NC it burns real pretty and hot. Its kind of an effect fuse. I think the formula might be cool for some zinc stars too. Its far more energetic than granite star formula. I dont think I wrote down the exact formula for the fuse comp but I did write down a very similar one I was trying to use for rockets so I'll post that if anyone wants it.

[Richtee]

I make my BM with medium weight cotton string and milled BP. I use the "Dixie Cup" method, pulling the string thru a rather thin slurry. The key here is to keep adding a little more water to the mix and a slight "swirling" motion to the cup.

 

I can see no reason to add a "dusting" step. Well, with my milled BP powder anyway.

 

I use it for cross matching and QM. And once the fuse hits the pipe.. FOOM! I was threading 2 lengths down the pipe, but the pipe would literally explode, and I found no reliability issues going to one strand.

[mike_au]

I've just gotten home and tried my experiment, it was...ok.

 

After seeing visco burn underwater I started thinking about how it works, it seems to be a fast burning core surrounded by a slower burning waterproof layer. The result is that when lit in air the whole thing burns away, but underwater the outer layer doesn't burn and shields the core from the water.

 

My attempt at KNO3 and silicon fuse failed miserably, but I figured the silicon would burn well enough that it could be used as that outer layer.

 

I managed to get my BM burning underwater reasonably well, it is also more flexible and doesn't crumble. So far so good, the problem is that it is less reliable. The speed fluctuates wildly, several times it went out completely and once it reignited after being (apparently) extinguished for a few seconds.

 

I am using a mix of 2 parts Selleys Wet Area sealant (thinned with turps) to 1 part KNO3 (I have a tube of Selleys All clear that I think might be more suitable).

 

Can anyone suggest ways of improving the reliability? How can I figure out the correct ratio of silicon:KNO3 (the MSDS doesn't list the proper contents of the silicon so I don't think I will be able to do balanced equations)? Any other suggestions at all?

[Richtee]

Mike..I dunno the big deal about the underwater burning thing, but I doubt any method that does not employ the wrapping of the fuse is gonna do that for you. I'm sure you have seen a visco machine...it's core is surrounded by a layer that is subsequently coated to prevent moisture encroachment. A plain dipped fuse is gonna fail miserably I fear.

[Swede]

I also made some interesting fuse using a formula I was messing around with a long time ago. It has zinc in it and its bound with NC it burns real pretty and hot. Its kind of an effect fuse.

I'm interested in this! Can you elaborate a bit for us?

[DeepOvertone]

Sure.... I didnt have any cotton string at the time so I was forced to use sisal twine. Its really fuzzy type stuff so it held onto allot of the composition. The fuse also had a bit of trouble with cracking and flaking. But I figure a bit more NC in the solution would help that out. So I'll give you my old notes regarding this stuff.

 

65% zinc powder

25-30% Potassium Perchlorate

5-10% Dark Aluminum

 

I was using ping pong ball cellulose as a binder by the way. I havent tried using double base or commercial nitrocellulose.

 

The higher percentage of aluminum you use, the faster this stuff gets. I never tried more than 10% fearing an explosion and I even got some cato's when trying the 5% formula in rockets(however I'll admit that my rocket construction back then wasnt much better than a chimp with a stick and a rock). I'd wager that if you used the 10% formula and made it goopy enough to cast in a tube you could probably make a nozelless rocket out of it if you cast it with a short core. Anyway If that didnt make any sense to anybody just ask and I'll try to clarify.

[BPinthemorning]

You mentioned pre-soaking the string in KNO3... don't do that. It would just overload the KNO3 content of your GM used on your black match...

[mike_au]

Richtee: It worked about as well underwater as it did in air.

 

I don't see how cotton + NC is any different to my silicon coating really, both are water proof and burn slightly slower than the BP core.

 

BPinthemorning: The way I saw it explained was that the cotton string itself is additional fuel, by presoaking it you are adding extra oxidiser to go with the extra fuel. Also by using string that is already wet it doesn't absorb as much water from the BP slurry and therefore doesn't leach away soluble parts of the BP. Although the last could probably be achieved just as well by wetting with plain water.

[BPinthemorning]

Yes, I recognize the extra fuel, but we've all made touch paper... Not good stuff is it? Adding KNO3 to the string may increase the "heat"of the Black Match, but the efficiency will decrease, because it will leave a string of smoldering touch paper as it burns. If you need to light something that is hard to get going, go for it, but otherwise, it could pose a hazard to other fuses perhaps in a cake that are even protected by a quick match tube...

[mike_au]

Ahh, righto

 

I'm only just starting out, haven't even thought about making cakes yet. I can certainly see how it could cause problems when you have fuses running all over the place.

[marks265]

Most of the black match I make goes to making quick match. When I make my black match I make a black powder slurry inside a "seal a meal" type bag and then heat it in boiling water. Then when hot I add my rolls of string of about 100 feet long (about 4 of them) and then vacuum seal it. I will cut the bag open and pull another vacuum one or two more times to get the slurry sucked into the string. When done right and the bag cools down the vacuum really increases and the "vacuum packing" really shines. Then when cool I cut the bag open and string it tightly accross nails to dry.

I think I may be the only one in the world to use this method but it works for me. I just felt that this is the best way to get the string fully impregnated with fuel.

[Mumbles]

That is easily the best pyro idea I've heard in a long time. You just solved my only complaint about making blackmatch. It is so messy, that I dread making it. I make about as much as you do at once, solely so I only have to go through the mess and cleanup once every few years.

 

Does it go a good job at getting BP in between the fibers of the string?

 

I'd suggest posting that on passfire or rec.pyro or something. I know a lot of people who would be interested in that method. Just one more kitchen appliance to steal from the significant other.

 

 

 

By the way mike_au. You do not have silicon. I was very confused for a while reading your posts. You have siliconE. Silicon is not the same as silicone. Silicon is a purple-ish green-ish semi-metal that is used to make computer chips and is used in pyrotechnic primes as a heat producing agent. Silicone is a clear polymer that is used to caulk bathtubs and windows, make lubricants, breast implats, and plastics.

[marks265]

Yes, it does a great job. You have to experiment a little with string size vs H2O added to BP for slurry. It took me a bit to master but it is what I do. When done correctly you can't see a bit of white string anywhere. As I said I use it for mostly QM so small shell small string large shells larger string. I keep a closer tolerance when pasting shells this way.

[marks265]

That is easily the best pyro idea I've heard in a long time. You just solved my only complaint about making blackmatch. It is so messy, that I dread making it. I make about as much as you do at once, solely so I only have to go through the mess and cleanup once every few years.

 

Does it go a good job at getting BP in between the fibers of the string?

 

I'd suggest posting that on passfire or rec.pyro or something. I know a lot of people who would be interested in that method. Just one more kitchen appliance to steal from the significant other.

 

 

 

By the way mike_au. You do not have silicon. I was very confused for a while reading your posts. You have siliconE. Silicon is not the same as silicone. Silicon is a purple-ish green-ish semi-metal that is used to make computer chips and is used in pyrotechnic primes as a heat producing agent. Silicone is a clear polymer that is used to caulk bathtubs and windows, make lubricants, breast implats, and plastics.

BTW

 

I go to passfire and rec.pyro for their great ideas very often and think quite highly of what there is to offer. I would appreciate it if the world would stop by here to see what we have to offer as well. I believe in being creative with out monetary gain for the hobby and safety. Seems to me that our member counter keeps ticking so Kudos to APC! So what I post here stays here.

[Mumbles]

Well, I appreciate that quite a bit mark.

 

I think many stay away from here due to the HE section, and the general younger member population. Yes, I know not everyone is young. They tend to automatically think young = stupid and immature. While it's certainly not true, there are enough examples to confirm their views.

[asilentbob]

I really like that vacuum impregnating idea! I may just have to try that sometime!

 

Generally I also make in rather large batches. I use a all cotton yarn for knitting as the string, then coil it all up into a circle and tie it off in 2 or so places loosely, then I put it in a bit of water with KNO3 dissolved in it, but not much water. 90% of the solution is absorbed into the string immediately. Then I leave it alone to dry a bit... a couple hours outside in the sun... Then I string the string up to fully dry. Then when dry I coil it up again and tie it off loosely again then make a thick BP/dextrin/water/alcohol slurry and put the string in it mushing it around a few minutes, then I untie the string and pull it through my clenched fish and/or a strainer hole to force more BP into the string and remove excess. While I'm doing this I wrap it up and down vertically on a big wooden frame, then cut it into vertical lengths when its dry and stuff it all into thin cardboard tubes, cap it and forget about it.

 

I haven't used hardly any of it since I bought some commercial quick match at PGI.

[Richtee]

Most of the black match I make goes to making quick match. When I make my black match I make a black powder slurry inside a "seal a meal" type bag

Hmmm VERY nice! I have need of some match and have a good vac sealer... INTERESTING...

[DeepOvertone]

Then the clouds parted and a light shown down and all manner of singing and rejoicing were heard...

 

Thats what happened when I read the vacuum seal post. I had never thought of that. Its similar to vacuum casting when making jewelry. I'm sure it would be even better if you had a real vacuum table to do this on instead of having to use a bag approach but im sure those are costly. The recent newsletter on skylighter suggested seperating the strands of the string before adding to the slurry. Then you would pull them all through the same little forming die to remove exess and shape to the right diamater. I thought this sounded like a good idea because it would probably help impregnate the string a bit better. However I think that seperating the strands is easier said than done. They chucked one end of the string into a drill and ran it in reverse while someone walked with their fingers in between all the strands. Still I tried this with my string and its not easy. Thanks for all the replys everyone.

[FrankRizzo]

That is a wonderful idea, Mark.

 

I make mine via the same technique asilentbob uses. There's a great step-by-step article on Passfire that details the method.

[Richtee]

Most of the black match I make goes to making quick match. When I make my black match I make a black powder slurry inside a "seal a meal" type bag

Hmmm VERY nice! I have need of some match and have a good vac sealer... INTERESTING...

Tried this today...most excellent results! I did not heat anything tho, just used BP fresh out of the mill. Be sure to tie a knot in the end you will string from..it all kinda gets sucked into one big lump. But the distribution of slurry was excellent.

 

Note to self: Use thicker slurry...some got sucked into my vac sealer. Bear to get out.

[Swede]

I make a black powder slurry inside a "seal a meal" type bag and then heat it in boiling water. Then when hot I add my rolls of string of about 100 feet long (about 4 of them) and then vacuum seal it.

That is a great idea! Thank you! I am having fun right now using vacuum to make tubes. This is another good use for a vacuum pump or a seal-a-meal.

 

It's amazing how well vacuum impregnation works. On a microscopic level, trapped air prevents the liquid (BP slurry) from truly penetrating the string. Pull a vacuum, the air escapes, and is replaced by the BP slurry. Awesome.

[marks265]

You're welcome to all.

 

Glad ya like the idea! Another tid bit is that I wrap my string around a 3" mortar tube and secure the rolls loosely with plastic bag ties (bread ties) in 2 or 3 places. The end of the string last wound is tied to a bread tie so that I know where to start.

[DIYMark]

I've been getting a container with a hole in the bottom corner smaller than the size of the cotton string and then threading the string through the hole. Next I load the container with my meal powder paste and drag it along the string. Works OK but after hearing of marks265's method I'm going to have to try it!