justanotherpyro Posted March 3, 2008 Posted March 3, 2008 As a side note the pyrouniverse method of making quickmatch pipe is much more difficult than it needs to be. QM pipe is as simple as a dowel, a long enough piece of light kraft (I use painting paper bought from home depot) and a piece of tape. Roll the paper from corner to corner and you get a piece of pipe that is that length. Strap a piece of tape on it, done. takes maybe 30 seconds. I roll corner to corner for two reasons.1. If you try and roll lengthwise its a hassle to tuck the flaps under the dowel and prevent them from popping out etc...2. You get a piece of pipe that is as long as the paper from corner to corner instead of top to bottom, which from geometry you get the point. Hope it makes sense. I've been meaning to toss up a tutorial one of these days.
Mumbles Posted March 3, 2008 Posted March 3, 2008 Sorry to take this off topic. Most of that 10 hours is spent with a smile on my face, and completely filthy. Well, that 10 hours includes the time spend making all the stars, burst, lift, pasting, and all that fun stuff. If I had premade stars, burst, and plastic casings, yes I could throw them together in probably 15-20 minutes plus drying time. Perhaps 10 hours was overkill in the estimation. I make far more stars, lift, and burst at once than for just 1 shell. It might take me 10 hours cumulative to make the first, but then each additional one only takes an hour or so more. I do however use paper casings. Somewhat for the intimacy of doing it the "traditional" way, but mostly because I get better performance from them. It's not entirely traditional as I generally use paper tape. Pasting a 6" ball shell takes around 45 min to an hour. I have been getting into bigger multi-break canister shells lately though. In a few years, 10 hours PER shell might not be out of the question. I have a three break 5" shell in the works that is going to approach that long. 40 crossettes, and close to 50 individually spiked inserts will tend to do that. My luck it'll flowerpot. If I ever compete with this one, I'd make it a 6" canister so I don't have to make two of them.
ST1DinOH Posted March 4, 2008 Author Posted March 4, 2008 st1 1st off all my 3" shells start off with about 1-1/4" time fuse. I do the butterfly fuse about a 1/16" on each side. I have been fusing this way now for over a year with well over 150+ shells with out any issues. I have turned many of others onto this way of doing the time fuse with out any issue again. I like the "keep it simple stupid" aka "kiss" method in things i do. A lot of people swear by priming the time fuse with the simple nc/bp dip...I have seen this done many of time also with out any issues. Again take what works for you and run with it! Hey mumbles 10+ hours? dude I would love to see what your doing all that time lol Most the time with pre made stars we can put together a nice 8" plastic shell in less then 20 mins We used 9 of our 5" shells this past Friday in a shoot and people loved out shells over the "store bought" ones lol My 2 cents.G well damn bay...where do you think i learned how to butterfly time fuses got your e-mail btw...unfortunatley my pc here doesn't like thoes files, kept asking me to install xcell. BTW that method works friggin perfectly. the 6 i've sent up since that first problem have been %100. thanks again. As a side note the pyrouniverse method of making quickmatch pipe is much more difficult than it needs to be. QM pipe is as simple as a dowel, a long enough piece of light kraft (I use painting paper bought from home depot) and a piece of tape. Roll the paper from corner to corner and you get a piece of pipe that is that length. Strap a piece of tape on it, done. takes maybe 30 seconds. I roll corner to corner for two reasons.1. If you try and roll lengthwise its a hassle to tuck the flaps under the dowel and prevent them from popping out etc...2. You get a piece of pipe that is as long as the paper from corner to corner instead of top to bottom, which from geometry you get the point. Hope it makes sense. I've been meaning to toss up a tutorial one of these days. nice, i can see where corner to corner would be a lot easier. instead of crossing your fingers hoping your tape holds, the middle is the strongest and it tapers down from there. i'd imagine having the ends the thinnest makes it nice and easy to connect one tube to the next giving you the ability to chain long fronts. very cool. thanks bro. one question though... i've seen 1.3 quick match in two basic types. the multi strand (5+) with a thick brittle coat of BP, and then i've seen the "glittery" furry kind with only a few strands of string but they are coated very well...almost looks like yarn with graphite on it. whats the difference in method of preperation, and performance of the two different types? Sorry to take this off topic. Most of that 10 hours is spent with a smile on my face, and completely filthy. Well, that 10 hours includes the time spend making all the stars, burst, lift, pasting, and all that fun stuff. If I had premade stars, burst, and plastic casings, yes I could throw them together in probably 15-20 minutes plus drying time. Perhaps 10 hours was overkill in the estimation. I make far more stars, lift, and burst at once than for just 1 shell. It might take me 10 hours cumulative to make the first, but then each additional one only takes an hour or so more. I do however use paper casings. Somewhat for the intimacy of doing it the "traditional" way, but mostly because I get better performance from them. It's not entirely traditional as I generally use paper tape. Pasting a 6" ball shell takes around 45 min to an hour. I have been getting into bigger multi-break canister shells lately though. In a few years, 10 hours PER shell might not be out of the question. I have a three break 5" shell in the works that is going to approach that long. 40 crossettes, and close to 50 individually spiked inserts will tend to do that. My luck it'll flowerpot. If I ever compete with this one, I'd make it a 6" canister so I don't have to make two of them. man... i'd love to see the vid on that 5 inch tripple. can't wait to see it.
psyco_1322 Posted March 4, 2008 Posted March 4, 2008 Everytime I use time fuse it always comes out to burn longer than expected, I believe this is because of the cross matching, which is being refered to as "butterflying" now. Time for 4 sec and get 6 or so. I think I was told once to compensate .5sec for the cross matching. But for this I would set one at .75" and the next at 1" and the last high one I would over lift a bit and cut it for 1.25". This should be fine. Remeber these are only 3" ball shells, if the viewers arent standing very near the rack than if its low breaking than its not really gonna cause a major problem. Just make sure you get the shells to have a nice fight and not a lot of slop and you will be fine. And you will always have near a second of hang time at the appex before it really stars coming down, as its gotta stall and reverse directions.
ST1DinOH Posted March 5, 2008 Author Posted March 5, 2008 Everytime I use time fuse it always comes out to burn longer than expected, I believe this is because of the cross matching, which is being refered to as "butterflying" now. Time for 4 sec and get 6 or so. I think I was told once to compensate .5sec for the cross matching. But for this I would set one at .75" and the next at 1" and the last high one I would over lift a bit and cut it for 1.25". This should be fine. Remeber these are only 3" ball shells, if the viewers arent standing very near the rack than if its low breaking than its not really gonna cause a major problem. Just make sure you get the shells to have a nice fight and not a lot of slop and you will be fine. And you will always have near a second of hang time at the appex before it really stars coming down, as its gotta stall and reverse directions. just to be clear...there is a difference between crossmatching and butterflying as i'm refurring to it. in the traditional cross matching you'd rock a razor into the end of the time fuse to bisect the powder core. then slightly open it up with the razor, and slide a short lengthof black match in the grove. once it in there you tie it up with floss... butterflying is a bit different. it starts the same, but you use 2 cuts instead of one. and rather than stopping at a slight gap, you open it all the way up. by doing this to two seperate cuts you've now peeled back the end of the time fuse 4 ways and exposed it as much as possible. almost like a bananna peel. this gives you a ton of extra exposed surface area that used to be the powder core, but now aids in passing fire to the core of the time fuse. i'll make sure and take pics of the next one i do. it's nice for someone like me who does not have black match. it's better than just angle cutting it, but possibly not as good as cross matching it.
psyco_1322 Posted March 5, 2008 Posted March 5, 2008 Wow! thats a new method, where did you learn that from? Sounds like a good way to have half the powder fall out of your fuse. I know that my fuse doesnt hold the powder in too well after being cut. You do anything else but dice it up?
ST1DinOH Posted March 5, 2008 Author Posted March 5, 2008 Wow! thats a new method, where did you learn that from? Sounds like a good way to have half the powder fall out of your fuse. I know that my fuse doesnt hold the powder in too well after being cut. You do anything else but dice it up?well i don't know about using that on visco or a spoolette...but the powder core of the japaneese time fuse has almost a "waxy" consistancy. so it holds together real well to the side walls of the time fuse casing... it kinda turns into a buch of little cracked wedges radiating outward from the core. i'm not talking an inch or anything...just the very tip. it opens it up like a flower blossom and makes it much more likely to catch passfire. in all the ones i've done like this i've lost little to none of the comp contained in the core. most of it stays adhered to the inside wall of the fuse casing. you just have to be gentle and not abuse it.
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