persut Posted November 28, 2007 Posted November 28, 2007 I will have these systems in sometime next week, Order quick i already have pre orders for half of this shipment. http://www.pyrodirect.com/ccp0-catshow/Ele...ng_Systems.html Thank You
Mumbles Posted November 28, 2007 Posted November 28, 2007 I was eyeballing those the other day. Do they have the solid state relays in them that everyone seems to be afraid of? Given proper e-match tying off they shouldn't be a problem, but better to be safe than have all your master pieces go up at once, right?
fredjr Posted November 28, 2007 Posted November 28, 2007 Actually it's mechanical relays that can have a problem. And the solution is to use solid state relays.
Mumbles Posted November 28, 2007 Posted November 28, 2007 As you can tell my electronic knowledge is a bit on the lacking side of things. At least I got one of the terms right. Makes sense now that I think of it though. I think I was just the solid part with physical objects moving. Unfortunatly firing systems are not a common subject in introductory physics classes.
psyco_1322 Posted November 29, 2007 Posted November 29, 2007 Mechanical relayed firing boxes are not to be placed on the rack when shooting the show. The jump form a shell firing can trip other relays, mostlikely all of them and if you still have your finger on teh buttton well.....there goes your finally. By the looks of that 16 cue one, they have mechanical relays or the last on like that I seen did. But I can get it for $150 even without shipping. There made in china. They are supposed to be about ever thing an american one is but not as expensive. Wanna know more?
asilentbob Posted November 29, 2007 Posted November 29, 2007 I have the 16-cue one, got it at PGI '07... can't remember price... I have not had a chance to test it, so i can't attest to how good it is. Off the side of the box:"It has Shock-proof function." Other data:"Output Quantity:16 groups, each group's connection can has 5 igniter in series and 5 igniter in parallel."(keep in mind I'm going word for word with exact spelling, and this was poorly translated.)"Mark:1. Please make sure to cancel all the frequencies previously programmed into the unit and program it again before each use. It can prevent any accident.2. Please make sure that other transmitters are turned OFF when you're programming the transmitter into the receiver."(Obviously very important.) Not mentioned on the instructions on the box, but there is a convienient panel that you can remove underneath the main firing module to store the remote in. If i had a web cam I'd make a movie of its operation. The only thing i don't like about it so much, though it hasn't been a problem yet is that the battery for the remote is a "super alkaline 23A 12V"... i have no idea how common those are. I can probably find one at the local grocery store... but it would have been nice to sacrafice the compactness of the remote for the convienience of AA batterys... Though it seems like most companies don't do this these days... oh well...
psyco_1322 Posted November 29, 2007 Posted November 29, 2007 Thats what you got? The thing with the big ugly redish orange remote? Gee I remember the thing looking a lot better. Well that my memory for ya. lol I think you told me you paid about $200 something for it. Pretty sure it was in the 2's. Ya I was really seriously thinking about buying one but im not sure if I like the idea of the chinese piece of plastic crap. Well I dont have the cash so that makes up my mind. I need to order chems anyway. I like that little 2 cue key chain thing, its kinda cute. Well thats what the guys at my operators class had and showed us. He said that they had it setting on their 4" rack and it bounced and shot the whole thing. Maybe you got a upgraded model, or you got scammed. Maybe you should bounce it around a bit and see what happens. Is he charging $.65 for a 3" hemi? Am I reading that right?
asilentbob Posted November 29, 2007 Posted November 29, 2007 I don't know. I'll have to test it. Personally i wouldn't have it very close to the mortars anyways... especially if they were big mortars... but that really goes for most firing systems. I would set it as far away as possible... and have padding below it and some fire-retardant cloth covering it... And really... since you have to be up close and personal turning it on and setting any delay right up next to loaded racks... i wouldn't willingly use it on anything relatively big... unless i had a sizable amount of distance via extra shooting wire or 15+ ft depending on size of quickmatch. Best for class C where even if something goes wrong... your not necessarily fucked... just unhappy. Unless like a mortar shoots a shell towards you... I don't think i'd use it for anything that i put extensive time into... because really... if i set up a nice little display with some nice shells... then they all go off and im recovering from the shock as they are breaking at apogee... it really is a waste of effort and i would be extremely pissed... On the site they said that the remote is sometimes easily damaged to the point that it fires everything at once... so that could have happened... Really i don't know... But yeah i had been looking at those small 1 and 2-cue ones at the convention a bit... but they were all sold out of them by the time i got to them... Alot could be set off by just one button press... thank you quickmatch, buckets, visco, and time fuse.
psyco_1322 Posted November 29, 2007 Posted November 29, 2007 well if you hand shoot the display you end uplighting the shell and being right up next to the rack anyways. But yeah that idea of turning it on, on the box is what I dont like. Remote power would be nice but then there would have to be a constant power supply to activte that. Im sticking with fuse.
Mumbles Posted November 29, 2007 Posted November 29, 2007 Some clubs have regulations on what you can hand shoot. I am getting to the borderline areas, where some of the stuff I'm making or going to be making will need to be e-matched and e-fired. As you can see handfiring out out of the question in these situations, not that I'd want to in the first place.
FrankRizzo Posted November 29, 2007 Posted November 29, 2007 Yep, NFPA 1123 8.2.9.2.1 says anything above 6" has to be fired from a location 75' from the mortar or behind a sturdy barricade at the time of ignition of the lift charge. 7" or 8" shells can be exempted from this rule if the mortars are buried at least three-quarters of their length into the ground, and the shooter has been provided an alternate means of protection. PGI (and most clubs) have set a stricter rule whereby no shells over 6" inches in diameter shall be hand fired.
persut Posted November 30, 2007 Author Posted November 30, 2007 on the 4th week we shoot over 100 8" 10" and 12" and we use these and another brand of 12. 16cue wireless system, and a 3 pyromate systems, we just place the box in the middle of the sand pit and cover it in a welders tarp, and have no problem. you just have to test the battery everytime you dont want a dead battery when its time to shoot.
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