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Nitrocellulose lacquer


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Posted

Well I'm getting interested in how to make E-matches so one thing I really need and don't know how to get is Nitrocellulose lacquer.

So today I found out how to make Nitrocellulose lacquer and believe it or not its pretty easy. And don't worry I well reference where I got this.

 

What you will need is some glass cleaner, 2-3 ping pong balls, a glass container, a lid for the glass container, and acetone.

First, cut the ping pong balls in have (save some ping pong ball for extra you might need them.)

Second, take the halved ping pong balls and place them in a glass container with some of the glass cleaner.

Third, put 25-50 ml of acetone into the mix and one of two thing set over night or shake for half an hour. The acetone evaporate very quickly so put the lid on the container. This will produce pyrotechnic grade nitrocellulose lacquer. If the mixture is too thin add another half a ping pong ball and dissolve until it has the right texture. If the mixture is too thick, add more acetone.

 

For anything else on Nitrocellulose lacquer or E-matches. CLICK HERE.

 

I got this from pyroguide.com

Posted
You should probably change the title of the thread to "how to make Cellulose Acetate Solution" since ping pong balls are cellulose acetate and not NC. In practical terms it makes almost no difference though, the two are usually pretty interchangeable.
Posted

Yeah, I also use the ping pong ball method for NC (or CA?) Laquer. I make it thick to the point where it is probably saturated (if I have my chemistry right). 12 ping pong balls only cost me $4 USD!

 

Quick question: I just made a few 3/8" pumped stars with NC laquer. Probably used a little too much (not sure the % I used). For anyone who has experience with NC Laquer stars, how long do they *typically* take to dry?

Posted
You should probably change the title of the thread to "how to make Cellulose Acetate Solution" since ping pong balls are cellulose acetate and not NC. In practical terms it makes almost no difference though, the two are usually pretty interchangeable.

Ping pong balls are NC which isn't highly nitrated so it burns rather slowly. Atleast that's what i've heard.

Posted
My mistake. I was under the impression that it was cellulose acetate, but I just looked it up. Turns out it is Celluloid which is 80% Nitro-Cellulose. They have also been made of cellulose nitrate which I suspect is probably closer to NC anyways. In my defense I did say the two are practically the same anyhow.
Posted
ping pong lacquer doesnt work good for dragon eggs that are made with bismuth subcarbonate in my expierences.
Posted
i just got my hands on some commercial crackling balls cracked em open will test the dragon eggs if i like them i might make them.
Posted
How is testing commercial dragon eggs going to help you decide if you wanna make some. Some formulas work better than others. Subcarbonate is not one of the best.
Posted
yeah i have heard that do you know how other bismuth based dragon eggs work i lit some of my commercial dragon eggs 4 sizzled one popped not the best reaction.
Posted
Never seem commercial dragon eggs have any problem going off. They most always go pop. About 99% of the time. Maybe yours are defective. I have no idea how bismuth trioxide works. I think it might work better. I kinda remember someone saying something about using it and have good results. Subcarbonate might work as good. I just havent had the paitients to mess with it much. It does however require real NC. Not smokeless powder and not ping pong balls. And dextrin doesnt work either. The NC plays some role in it. And its got to be good NC or 1 in about 100 eggs will work. Thats why I was getting pissed of at it. I think I might try it again with my new finer magnalium. Probably not soon though.
Posted
yeah i know i have to use the real stuff i was just wondering which formula works best maybe these dragon eggs are too small or maybe i crushed them i only lit a total of 4.
Posted
I think the Lead eggs are the best, messy though and VERY much a health hazard to work with. I make them with the respirator, gloves and faceshield on.
Posted
Ya, with those hazards I can go without.
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