making potassium (per) chlorate

[WSM]

OKay, been reading up about this. I was going to make a ClO cell from a 5gal bucket. I had figured the soluability (from Merck) at:

 

There are 18.9270589 liters eqivalent in 5 Gal U.S.

Round that to 19Liters per 5 gal bucket.

19 litres x 1,000mL/1 liter = 19,000mL.

19,000/2.8g = 6,785.71g of KCl to dissolve into room temp water...

19,000/1.8g = 10,555.5g of KCl to dissolve into boiling water...

(10,555.5 g = 372.334 oz | 10,555.5 g = 23.2708 lbs ... OR ... 23 lb and 4.33 oz)

Can anyone help me with the power now? Amperage and voltages to the volume and soluability of that cell?

I dont know if a paltinum electrode made from a catalytic converter is large enough for this, it should be I would think, what say any of you?

 

If you leave a space over the top of your cell liquid for bubbles to break without splashing salt solution, you'll have less salt creep issues causing problems with your electrical connections. I took the advice of a wise old friend and designed my cells with a 4"-6" air gap over the RC liquid to help solve the problem. See if it works for you as well...

 

WSM

[pyrojig]

@ WSM.

 

I wonder if a lot of the damage seen in the pool chlorinators happens when the season is over and people just unplug the system and leave it exposed to the water/salt there? Any thoughts?

 

 

 

I think you hit the nail on the head. This could be a killer for those devices. But on a less aggressive level. The concentration of caustic liquid is far less than a cell.

[WSM]

@ WSM.

I think you hit the nail on the head. This could be a killer for those devices. But on a less aggressive level. The concentration of caustic liquid is far less than a cell.

 

The concentration is lower but the time of exposure is signicantly longer making it a likely cause of the damage seen (in my way of thinking, anyway)!

 

WSM

Edited February 23, 2012 by WSM

[Essohbe]

I'm still reading through it all, lol. Thanks for the info guys.

[bikemaster]

OKay, been reading up about this. I was going to make a ClO cell from a 5gal bucket. I had figured the soluability (from Merck) at:

 

There are 18.9270589 liters eqivalent in 5 Gal U.S.

Round that to 19Liters per 5 gal bucket.

19 litres x 1,000mL/1 liter = 19,000mL.

19,000/2.8g = 6,785.71g of KCl to dissolve into room temp water...

19,000/1.8g = 10,555.5g of KCl to dissolve into boiling water...

 

(10,555.5 g = 372.334 oz | 10,555.5 g = 23.2708 lbs ... OR ... 23 lb and 4.33 oz)

 

Can anyone help me with the power now? Amperage and voltages to the volume and soluability of that cell?

I dont know if a paltinum electrode made from a catalytic converter is large enough for this, it should be I would think, what say any of you?

 

If you want to do your calculation quickly, use this: http://www.vk2zay.net/calculators/?body=chlorates.php

If you are running your cell without ph control you will have an efficiency of about 0,54 (between 20% and 66%).

And remember one thing, we usually never go under 100g/l of of potassium chloride in the cell. This is to prevent the electrode erosion and under this concentration the efficiency is really bad anyway.

 

For your cell your will have :

 

solubility of KCL at 40°C : 401 g/L

Usable KCl = 401-100 = 301 g/L

With 19L you have 5719 g that will be change in KClO3

using the calculator that I link to you you will get this at 0,54 of efficiency:

 

With a 30 amp power supply it will take 4.5 week for you bacth to be complet ( 460.274 mol of electron transfered), and you will get 9400 g of KClO3.

 

If you filter you solution at 0°C (KClO3 solubility = 3,3 g/L) you will recover 9137 g of KClO3.

 

Then you can redisolve only 301 g/L in your cell and start and other bacth !

 

Good Luck

[oldmanbeefjerky]

The concentration is lower but the time of exposure is signicantly longer making it a likely cause of the damage seen (in my way of thinking, anyway)!

 

WSM

 

 

The guy at the pool shop told me that they get most pool chlorinators in for service/repair a short while after they start using their pools again after the dry season ( its a constant 33-35 degrees here all year round, only humidity changes).

I think its because the cells when turned off dont drain out the pool water.

 

 

Also, anodes for me is not a problem, i have a few with straps on, and allot of sheet uncut with no straps on them. i wanted the chlorinators for their cathodes and for titanium straps. but it seems ill have to remove the MMO from them , either by scraping it off, or just using them until it naturally comes off.

 

The anodes as i said, are fine, they feel normal, no internal oxidation like the cathodes. since i have only use for the plate anodes, i might experiment with the MMO meshed ones though, until the MMO dies, then ill use as cathode.

[WSM]

The guy at the pool shop told me that they get most pool chlorinators in for service/repair a short while after they start using their pools again after the dry season ( its a constant 33-35 degrees here all year round, only humidity changes).

I think its because the cells when turned off dont drain out the pool water.

Also, anodes for me is not a problem, i have a few with straps on, and allot of sheet uncut with no straps on them. i wanted the chlorinators for their cathodes and for titanium straps. but it seems ill have to remove the MMO from them , either by scraping it off, or just using them until it naturally comes off.

The anodes as i said, are fine, they feel normal, no internal oxidation like the cathodes. since i have only use for the plate anodes, i might experiment with the MMO meshed ones though, until the MMO dies, then ill use as cathode.

 

It would be a shame to scrape the MMO off a good anode to use as a cathode, but If the anode dies, then go for it. I feel solid sheet cathodes work well with MMO mesh anodes, especially if surrounding the anode with two cathodes.

 

Swede has me convinced about the tubular titanium leads for the electrodes. I spot weld them on and fill them with lead-free solder (primarily tin which is 5x more conductive than titanium). Also they are locked in place in PVDF compression fittings which keeps them sealed.

 

WSM

[pyrojig]

That seems like a bad way to obtain the Ti cathodes as WSM stated. The Ti sheet is the easier metal ( and cheaper ) to obtain. MMO is like gold in comparison. I'd follow WSM's advise and get some Ti sheet metal as a cathode material. It has served me very well, and with the combination of stretched MMO I have achieved good returns of chlorate. Just be careful to not ever overheat the MMO coating and breath it, It is toxic as hell! I think you'll experience what is referred to as 'metal fever'.

[oldmanbeefjerky]

honestly its the most reasonable way for me to get any titanium period!

 

But there are a few things i think i could use the titanium for. especially the expanded mesh, which obviously is for plating with other corrosion resistant compounds.

 

Keep in mind though what i have is inferior MMO, made primarily of iridium , titanium dioxide and tin oxides, made specifically for electrolysis in very low chloride concentrations, but also at low amperage as well, but according to the output of the power supply i received with one of the cells, run at about 9v .

Plus its also been preused.

 

Ill post some pictures later to show you what ive got, ive tossed out the cathodes though. And dont worry, ill put these to good use.

I might even be able to find a way to profit of them, to buy me some brand new titanium, which i can get for aprox $50/KG.

[Nitrato]

(Im still reading this thread..Quite good info, BTW)

 

I dont have a very good spot welder and Ti is precious to me, so I found a way to connect laserred MMO without spot-welding Ti. I will test soon.

 

I started sanding a top of two laserred MMO pieces with sandpaper:

 

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/tnitrato/Gerador%20Eletroquimico%20de%20Cloro/DSC01547.jpg

 

Then two thick wires were connected to the sanded top in such way that allows to contact much exposed surface as possible:

 

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/tnitrato/Gerador%20Eletroquimico%20de%20Cloro/DSC01549.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/tnitrato/Gerador%20Eletroquimico%20de%20Cloro/DSC01550.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/tnitrato/Gerador%20Eletroquimico%20de%20Cloro/DSC01551.jpg

Semi-Finished:

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/tnitrato/Gerador%20Eletroquimico%20de%20Cloro/DSC01552.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/tnitrato/Gerador%20Eletroquimico%20de%20Cloro/100_0124.jpg

 

Then, some lead was poured on fire in a tomato can, melted and then the wired tops were quickly dipped in the lead.

 

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/tnitrato/Gerador%20Eletroquimico%20de%20Cloro/100_0129.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/tnitrato/Gerador%20Eletroquimico%20de%20Cloro/100_0130.jpg

 

The result:

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/tnitrato/Gerador%20Eletroquimico%20de%20Cloro/100_0131.jpg

 

After the dip, some molten lead was poured over the tops, resting on the floor, to cover/fill holes and surfaces that wasnt covered in the dip. The process was did with both anodes then the excess of lead was poured on the floor to be used later.

 

Result:

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/tnitrato/Gerador%20Eletroquimico%20de%20Cloro/100_0135.jpg

 

My ugly chlorate producing anodes ahahaha

The downside is that is not good to put all the anode inside the cell, the top must be outside the cell and I will loose some of the active surface of MMO, but is cheap and dont need extra Ti.

Will cover with hot glue to help against any electrolyte droplets that eventually go outside the cell..

Hope this will give a good electrical connection, the extra lead can even help as a heat sink if goes too hot..

Edited February 27, 2012 by Nitrato

[oldmanbeefjerky]

No offense but thats awful .

And thats taking into account that you dont have any basic equipment and such.

 

obviously you have never made chlorate before.

 

You will find that your lead will become extremely corroded within hours of being near the cell, let alone inside it with all the chlorine and oxygen and chlorite solution vapours.

im very doubtful that the lead will properly bond to the titanium, so its likely there will be a thin gap between the titanium and lead, meaning that chlorine can and will get in there and wreak havok, eventually eating the copper, or at least isolating it from the titanium .

 

My advice, if it fails, is to solder on some solder to the titanium, but be sure to sand it prior to minimize the amount of oxide. use a solder which has flux inside it, and get it to bond with the titanium. best use leaded as it is cheaper.

if it fails try reacting the exposed titanium with hydrochloric acid until hydrogen is generated.

solder will bond far better than lead will, and because of the tin, it should corrode less.

 

-edit-

hot melt glue doesnt do a thing , i tried it, and it oxidized and crumbled.

Edited February 27, 2012 by oldmanbeefjerky

[hillbillyreefer]

No offense but thats awful .

And thats taking into account that you dont have any basic equipment and such.

 

obviously you have never made chlorate before.

 

You will find that your lead will become extremely corroded within hours of being near the cell, let alone inside it with all the chlorine and oxygen and chlorite solution vapours.

im very doubtful that the lead will properly bond to the titanium, so its likely there will be a thin gap between the titanium and lead, meaning that chlorine can and will get in there and wreak havok, eventually eating the copper, or at least isolating it from the titanium .

 

My advice, if it fails, is to solder on some solder to the titanium, but be sure to sand it prior to minimize the amount of oxide. use a solder which has flux inside it, and get it to bond with the titanium. best use leaded as it is cheaper.

if it fails try reacting the exposed titanium with hydrochloric acid until hydrogen is generated.

solder will bond far better than lead will, and because of the tin, it should corrode less.

 

-edit-

hot melt glue doesnt do a thing , i tried it, and it oxidized and crumbled.

 

I did mine in a similar way. I split a piece of 1/2" stainless tubing slid the electrode into the tube, put the lead wire in then filled the tube with lead. It has worked just fine for a couple months of production. I keep the connection outside of the pail.

[oldmanbeefjerky]

similar, but different.

 

your way would be pretty much perfect if its good stainless, this way though, plus the inevitable distance between the chlorine and the lead, is not great.

I wonder if anyone knows of any good resins or cements that wont get eaten in the cell. in pool chlorinators there was rubber, which concealed the connections between the brass /titanium rod, and the titanium metal the electrodes attached to (similar to a car battery setup).

 

i am begining to think that i really need to get my welding transformer to work as a spot welder. unless i can get some Ti nuts and bolts

[WSM]

(Im still reading this thread..Quite good info, BTW)

I dont have a very good spot welder and Ti is precious to me, so I found a way to connect laserred MMO without spot-welding Ti. I will test soon.

I started sanding a top of two laserred MMO pieces with sandpaper:Then two thick wires were connected to the sanded top in such way that allows to contact much exposed surface as possible: Semi-Finished:

Then, some lead was poured on fire in a tomato can, melted and then the wired tops were quickly dipped in the lead.The result:After the dip, some molten lead was poured over the tops, resting on the floor, to cover/fill holes and surfaces that wasnt covered in the dip. The process was did with both anodes then the excess of lead was poured on the floor to be used later.

Result:My ugly chlorate producing anodes ahahaha

The downside is that is not good to put all the anode inside the cell, the top must be outside the cell and I will loose some of the active surface of MMO, but is cheap and dont need extra Ti.

Will cover with hot glue to help against any electrolyte droplets that eventually go outside the cell..

Hope this will give a good electrical connection, the extra lead can even help as a heat sink if goes too hot..

 

Hi nitrato,

 

It looks like a creative and imaginative approach. I used to think removal of the MMO was a good idea for electrical connections (and I've seen others recommend it too); BUT the MMO is more conductive than the CP titanium under it! Better to leave it on and clamp your electrical connections with stainless steel hardware. You're leaving the "soldered" end out of the cell liquid anyway, so why not?

 

Let us know how this turns out.

 

WSM

Edited February 28, 2012 by WSM

[WSM]

I did mine in a similar way. I split a piece of 1/2" stainless tubing slid the electrode into the tube, put the lead wire in then filled the tube with lead. It has worked just fine for a couple months of production. I keep the connection outside of the pail.

 

There you go, give it a try and see how it goes. I have changed my mind and ideas many times over the last decade of studying this process. I'm getting to be more open-minded about it, but I do have my opinions (as you all know).

 

I agree about keeping the electrical connections outside of the cell. Things hold up better when not left in a corrosive environment!

 

WSM

Edited February 28, 2012 by WSM

[WSM]

similar, but different.

your way would be pretty much perfect if its good stainless, this way though, plus the inevitable distance between the chlorine and the lead, is not great.

I wonder if anyone knows of any good resins or cements that wont get eaten in the cell. in pool chlorinators there was rubber, which concealed the connections between the brass /titanium rod, and the titanium metal the electrodes attached to (similar to a car battery setup).

i am begining to think that i really need to get my welding transformer to work as a spot welder. unless i can get some Ti nuts and bolts

 

The one thing I had considered to use as a seal is a paste/glue made of Viton elastomer (rubber). Viton is like the Teflon of rubber materials. One of the advantages of it is it's soluble in acetone and other ketones. If one made a thick slurry of it, I can see it being used to seal electrical connections, not unlike using the "liquid electrical tape" product on the market.

 

After applying it, be sure to thoroughly dry out the solvents and a good seal should be possible. If someone tries this before I get to, please share the results. Thanks.

 

WSM

Edited February 28, 2012 by WSM

[Nitrato]

No offense but thats awful .

And thats taking into account that you dont have any basic equipment and such.

 

I make my cells with what I have on hand and just as a hobby, I dont have any profit from it, just expenses (the only profit is to see that my product works and give to me beautiful reactions). I dont want to achieve industrial excellence in yields, just make my chlorate for pyro and chemistry purposes (precious metals refining, general oxidations, etc). Coincidently I received about 30 Ti rods that I bought from ebay today and will use of it as cathode material and try to coat it with DTO/PbO2, since I have the materials already. I also received some Ti plates and a Ti foil.

 

obviously you have never made chlorate before.

 

Just FIY:

 

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/tnitrato/MADSCIENCE%20I/DSC05391.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/tnitrato/MADSCIENCE%20I/DSC05397.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/tnitrato/MADSCIENCE%20I/DSC05394.jpg

 

I made a small amount of KClO3 in 2006 using hypochlorite (calcium hypochlorite) thermal decomposition method, but that sucks. Im REALLY in the "chlorate business" since beginnings of 2008, when (per)chlorate and anode related threads on SMDB started to "sky-rocket". Back these days Ive build lots of small/medium cells using mild/stainless steel plates and treated (liseed oil) gouging rods. There is a lot of work (specially to get rid off sodium from KClO3), but I did.

 

There are about a kilo of sodium chlorate (recrystallized) in the container above (originally with 2 kilos). I use it to dissolve Pt, Pd, gold, etc from electronic scrap and to refine it and in many experiments. The barium chlorate was made from NaClO3; I didnt made it for pyro purposes, but to make some dilute chloric acid (using sulfuric acid the barium sulfate is easily removed).

 

 

You will find that your lead will become extremely corroded within hours of being near the cell, let alone inside it with all the chlorine and oxygen and chlorite solution vapours.

im very doubtful that the lead will properly bond to the titanium, so its likely there will be a thin gap between the titanium and lead, meaning that chlorine can and will get in there and wreak havok, eventually eating the copper, or at least isolating it from the titanium .

 

My advice, if it fails, is to solder on some solder to the titanium, but be sure to sand it prior to minimize the amount of oxide. use a solder which has flux inside it, and get it to bond with the titanium. best use leaded as it is cheaper.

if it fails try reacting the exposed titanium with hydrochloric acid until hydrogen is generated.

solder will bond far better than lead will, and because of the tin, it should corrode less.

 

-edit-

hot melt glue doesnt do a thing , i tried it, and it oxidized and crumbled.

 

In my experience, thick hot melt glue coats will last some runs if you let it OUT the cell. It eventually crumbles, I just remove it and apply a new coat. The real problem with hot melt glue is that if you are passing a great current through anode, the resulting joule heat can melt it.

Lead also stands well if kept OUT the cell, specially a well sealed cell, with long tube driving the gases/electrolyte mist away from connections.

 

Of course is not the best way, but the way I found works for me. I hopefully assemble an experimental cell today and tell the results.

 

Well, since my Ti arrived and since I have some spare microwave oven transformers, I can adapt it (removing the HV secondary) to make a spot welder and try to make a real decent connection.

 

 

hillbillyreefer:

 

Let me understand, you put the top of the MMO electrode inside the tube then filled it with lead to make a connection? Better idea than mine BTW! This will provide a real 'no leakage' connection and no chlorine or other nasty stuff can get into it.

 

 

oldmanbeefjerky:

 

About sealant, would maybe some PVC dissolved in MEK suffice?

 

 

WSM: I simply removed some of the MMO coating since I thought it gives better contact with molten lead.

Edited February 27, 2012 by Nitrato

[oldmanbeefjerky]

sorry, you came off as a massive improvasist, so i asumed you hadnt made chlorate the right way before. may i ask though where you get your Ti?

also good luck with making a spot welder from a MOT, also good luck getting that secondary off, its pretty hard to remove since its been glued in. doing all this while not harming the primary can be quire hard

[hillbillyreefer]

Yes, Nitrato, that is how to do it.

 

Split the stainless tubing with one cut, pinch one end of tube closed, slide mmo anode into the slit, place stripped wire into tube and fill with molten lead. Easy peasy.

 

I do have some damage to the stainless tube where it sat in fluid out of the cell for an unknown period of time. The corrosion is pretty substantial. The rest of the setup still looks good and was working well when removed from service. What my cell really needs is a sealant that doesn' t crumble away after a short run.

[WSM]

I make my cells with what I have on hand and just as a hobby, I dont have any profit from it, just expenses (the only profit is to see that my product works and give to me beautiful reactions). I dont want to achieve industrial excellence in yields, just make my chlorate for pyro and chemistry purposes (precious metals refining, general oxidations, etc). Coincidently I received about 30 Ti rods that I bought from ebay today and will use of it as cathode material and try to coat it with DTO/PbO2, since I have the materials already. I also received some Ti plates and a Ti foil.

Just FIY:

I made a small amount of KClO3 in 2006 using hypochlorite (calcium hypochlorite) thermal decomposition method, but that sucks. Im REALLY in the "chlorate business" since beginnings of 2008, when (per)chlorate and anode related threads on SMDB started to "sky-rocket". Back these days Ive build lots of small/medium cells using mild/stainless steel plates and treated (liseed oil) gouging rods. There is a lot of work (specially to get rid off sodium from KClO3), but I did.

There are about a kilo of sodium chlorate (recrystallized) in the container above (originally with 2 kilos). I use it to dissolve Pt, Pd, gold, etc from electronic scrap and to refine it and in many experiments. The barium chlorate was made from NaClO3; I didnt made it for pyro purposes, but to make some dilute chloric acid (using sulfuric acid the barium sulfate is easily removed).

In my experience, thick hot melt glue coats will last some runs if you let it OUT the cell. It eventually crumbles, I just remove it and apply a new coat. The real problem with hot melt glue is that if you are passing a great current through anode, the resulting joule heat can melt it.

Lead also stands well if kept OUT the cell, specially a well sealed cell, with long tube driving the gases/electrolyte mist away from connections.

Of course is not the best way, but the way I found works for me. I hopefully assemble an experimental cell today and tell the results.

Well, since my Ti arrived and since I have some spare microwave oven transformers, I can adapt it (removing the HV secondary) to make a spot welder and try to make a real decent connection.

hillbillyreefer:

Let me understand, you put the top of the MMO electrode inside the tube then filled it with lead to make a connection? Better idea than mine BTW! This will provide a real 'no leakage' connection and no chlorine or other nasty stuff can get into it.

oldmanbeefjerky:

About sealant, would maybe some PVC dissolved in MEK suffice?

WSM: I simply removed some of the MMO coating since I thought it gives better contact with molten lead.

 

How well does the titanium stick to the lead? I wouldn't think it would stick at all.

 

If I were to make a connection outside the cell, I think stainless steel hardware clamping the electrical leads to the MMO mesh would be effective (not counting the MMO mesh outside the liquid). Keep up the research.

 

WSM

[WSM]

Yes, Nitrato, that is how to do it.

Split the stainless tubing with one cut, pinch one end of tube closed, slide mmo anode into the slit, place stripped wire into tube and fill with molten lead. Easy peasy.

I do have some damage to the stainless tube where it sat in fluid out of the cell for an unknown period of time. The corrosion is pretty substantial. The rest of the setup still looks good and was working well when removed from service. What my cell really needs is a sealant that doesn' t crumble away after a short run.

 

If it works, keep going with it. You may be able to clean up the corrosion with HCl or H₃PO₄!

 

WSM

Edited February 28, 2012 by WSM

[oldmanbeefjerky]

now that i look at it all, Ive got a massive amount of titanium, compared to what i thought i had.

Aside from the 3 greenish ones (internally oxidized, these are all in good condition.

sorry its a bit pixelated, normally pictures are a little smoother, im still getting used to my new video camera (still better than the old $60 fuji )

all of the dark plates except the green ones, were from the self cleaning cell. its all that was in there. they all look alike, and all are in good nic.

 

 

the light grey mesh is the only cathodes that survived, all the anodes seem to be covered in what looks like ferric rust, varying from cream to brown. could this from minerals in the water? or rust from the anode, meaning it contains iron, and if so how much, or what grade Ti could i expect this from, in your opinions. but just your opinion, i dont ask for a full search into this or anything.

 

Edited February 28, 2012 by oldmanbeefjerky

[WSM]

now that i look at it all, Ive got a massive amount of titanium, compared to what i thought i had.

Aside from the 3 greenish ones (internally oxidized, these are all in good condition.

sorry its a bit pixelated, normally pictures are a little smoother, im still getting used to my new video camera (still better than the old $60 fuji )

all of the dark plates except the green ones, were from the self cleaning cell. its all that was in there. they all look alike, and all are in good nic.

the light grey mesh is the only cathodes that survived, all the anodes seem to be covered in what looks like ferric rust, varying from cream to brown. could this from minerals in the water? or rust from the anode, meaning it contains iron, and if so how much, or what grade Ti could i expect this from, in your opinions. but just your opinion, i dont ask for a full search into this or anything.

 

Hi OMBJ,

 

As others have said, nice score! I guess the rust is from the water in the area (or at least going through old iron pipes). I'd bet you could clean the electrodes up with HCl pool acid and the rust would wash away in the rinse. The only iron/titanium alloy I've had experience with is ferro titanium, used to alloy steels. I expect you're finding CP titanium in the pool chlorinators.

 

In a nutshell, there you have it (my opinion). Your milage may vary but those are my best guesses. Have fun with your new electrodes.

 

WSM

[pyrojig]

I had one observation that may have been missed.............. @ nitrato ..,

 

 

From what I see your using copper wires under the lead coating. Im sure where you dipped the top of the electrode in the lead it burned some of the insulation off the copper wire. This will be a weak spot where it will degrade with speed. I would assume that even leaving the MMO coating on the mesh v.s. removing it would create a better bonding surface for the lead. I'd suggest using SS cable as a lead wire, v.s. copper. You want to steer clear of copper contaminates in the cell. This is why I chose to get a spot welder. The MOT sys is deathly dangerous not to mention the energy consumption that it will pull ( just watch the meter when you turn it on, it will spin like a top).

 

 

I have used hot melt glue and it works for sealing, but very poorly, it only lasts a few days at best. Salt creep will happen. One way I have gotten around this is to use epoxy or JB weld. It is much more resistant , allowing the cell to run 2mo w/o salt creep . This is a easy to remove off the Ti after it fails, because it becomes very brittle and will chip of with little work. This is not a long term approach, but if the intention is to make some chlorate for pyro uses then it will suffice.

[hillbillyreefer]

pyrojig is correct on the corrosion happening at the junction of the lead and copper wire. On mine there is some evidence of copper corrosion, It hasn't become a problem yet, I will try a coating of JBweld, never thought of that. Thanks pyrojig.