Search: Silverstreamer

[Spider]

Helo

I'm searching a comp. for a silverstreamer star. It should be a strong silver and the density of the tail sould more or less be as the tail of Chrysanthemum 6.

I've seen some comps. but I would like to use as few Dark Al as Possible.

It would be perfect to have a comp. using Al 50-315µ (spherical) and/or flake Al 40-160µ (this one is a bit coated). I could use also 63µ Al, but of the flake al i have 1kg =) (Any ideas what to make with it?)

I've seen some using the 50-315µ AND Dark Al, but as allready said i have just few, about 200g

Wouldn't be bad if KNO3 could be used in stead of KClO4*g*

I know, a lot of wishes, but probably someone knows such a comp!?

A good evening to all!

Spider

 

EDIT: Sorry I posted it in the wrong category! Could someone move it to Pyrotechnics in general? Sorry!

[lorp]

Pls try the composition:

 

Williams No-Antimony Glitter

55---potassium nitrate

17---airfloat charcoal

7----sulfur

4----red iron oxide

10---aluminum 12 micron spherical

3----magnalium 100-200 mesh

4----dextrin

Ball mill about 1h except metal. Solvent 33% denatured alcohol in water.

 

without red iron oxide and magnalium the comp produce long sylver tail in 1.2'' comet (I used 10-15micron coarse Al instead spherical)

 

Regards

Lorp

[crazyboy25]

please tell me im not too good with micron does 12 micron equal 325 mesh?

[Pretty green flame]

Shimizu silver falls.

 

41% KNO3

4% Sulfer

49% Aluminim (Best is bright aluminium, -325mesh coated stuff works excelent)

6% Dextrine

 

Make as cut stars.

Very birght with bushy sliver tail. Probably the best silver you are going to get.

[Mardec]

Shimizu silver falls.

 

41% KNO3

4% Sulfer

49% Aluminim (Best is bright aluminium, -325mesh coated stuff works excelent)

6% Dextrine

 

Make as cut stars.

Very birght with bushy sliver tail. Probably the best silver you are going to get.

Hmm my coated Al (400 mesh) with stearic acid is to fluffly to be pressed / used into stars, also the stearic acid made my stars to weak. I think it inhibits the dextrins function, I could littary squize them to powder with 1 squize..

[weknowpyro]

Made a silver streamer starmine ages ago. This is a still from the video(sorry for bad quality), Is that the sort of density you were looking for?

If so, then the compostion was improvised, but I believe it was 8 parts Bp and 2 parts 250 mesh atomized Al powder.

[crazyboy25]

Shimizu silver falls.

 

41% KNO3

4% Sulfer

49% Aluminim (Best is bright aluminium, -325mesh coated stuff works excelent)

6% Dextrine

 

Make as cut stars.

Very birght with bushy sliver tail. Probably the best silver you are going to get.

two questions

 

1. i don't think i have coated just regular 325 mesh spherical atomized from skylighter will this work?

 

2. how well do they ignite? (prime required?)

[Mumbles]

12 micron is a theoretical mesh of about 800. It will work fine in the star though.

 

Shimizu's formula calls for flake Al. Bright Aluminum is a stearin coated -325 mesh flake. You can try the atomized stuff. It will probably work just fine and give a longer, but less bushy tail. A point of notice, use boric acid solution to bind that composition unless you want a work area full of ammonia and H2S. With that much metal they will definatly need a fairly hot prime. Perhaps a step prime.

 

With heavily coated aluminums, they will compress poorly. Chances are they cannot be pressed with that much aluminum in them. You may want to try to use gum arabic, or an alcohol based binder. When cutting, one trick is to use a thin solution of wheat paste instead of just water, perhaps without the dextrin.

[pudidotdk]

How neccesary is the boric acid, after all the aluminium is coated.

No guarantee of safety though.

I have tried to work with bright flake.

This composition is cheap and does not require hardcore materials, the only reason noone makes them seems to be the pain in the ass and everything covered in silver. I cannot agree more

[crazyboy25]

damn i have found i hate priming and find star that dont light easily very annoying and difficult although i will have to get used to it since there are so many of them.

[Mumbles]

Boric acid is very neccesary. Coated aluminum does not mean protected aluminum. I have personally had bright flake Al react with nitrates and sulfur to really stink up the place.

[Spider]

Hi there

I actually tested pretty green flames comp.

as a powder it was very bright and it lighted with a match (but not easily)... as binder i used mowital and as solvent alcohol. didnt really work, just got some "crumbled" stars... and: they dont light at all. even after 1 minute heating it with a "jet lighter" (the ones that burn without a sooty flame)

any tips?

i used 40-160µ flake al, coated.

greets

[lorp]

Sorry my mistake I mean Al 120-150mikron(0,10-0,15mm or 100-150mesh or medium flitter\coarse).

Right formula is:

 

55---potassium nitrate

17---airfloat charcoal

7----sulfur

4----red iron oxide

10---aluminum 120-150 micron corse or flitter

3----magnalium 100-200 mesh

4----dextrin

 

The comp look like "blond streamer" but without red iron oxide and magnalium produces long sylver tail in my comets.

 

Lorp

[Mardec]

Hi there

I actually tested pretty green flames comp.

as a powder it was very bright and it lighted with a match (but not easily)... as binder i used mowital and as solvent alcohol. didnt really work, just got some "crumbled" stars... and: they dont light at all. even after 1 minute heating it with a "jet lighter" (the ones that burn without a sooty flame)

any tips?

i used 40-160µ flake al, coated.

greets

Hey smartass.

 

A comp like this needs a lot of prime and O2 to burn, it will get that O2 when airborne at high speeds. You can't test stars on the ground, there is so much difference in conditions.

 

Make a stargun, prime them, and test them then

[Spider]

Hey!

No reason to tell me smartass-.-

I know that they need a lot of prime, but I allready had comps. that were similar, but after one minute heating it with this crapy lighter, they finaly lit.

And they also dind't light when I put one on top of 2g KNO3/Mg, which actually burns quite hot-.-

Smartass^^

[Mardec]

Hey!

No reason to tell me smartass-.-

I know that they need a lot of prime, but I allready had comps. that were similar, but after one minute heating it with this crapy lighter, they finaly lit.

And they also dind't light when I put one on top of 2g KNO3/Mg, which actually burns quite hot-.-

Smartass^^

What part about them needing O2 so shoot them from a stargun didn't you understand.

 

And a crappy lighter (yellow flame) is hot CO2 and H2O and unburned organic gasses. They can light the star.

 

But one of those hot blue flame lighters pump out very hot CO2 H2O and O2, so you oxidized the Al in your star and that is why it ""didn't" lit.

 

Believe me, a star like this needs to be airborne.. Ask anyone here

[Mumbles]

I( agree it needs to be airbourne to really test, but I test my prime jobs on the ground all the time. Normally it works fine, but it seems like the only time I have problems is when I am making 6" shells. I am currently 0 for 3 on 6" shells, and it's angering. If you can't sweep a flame over the star and have it light, chances are slim it will work in the air.

 

The use of a binder like mowital may have caused issues as well. I would imagine it is at least combustable, but from a bit of research it doesn't seem to be as flammable as the original dex. Off topic, but mowital may be something interesting for larger comets and stuff.

[Spider]

Well, now I primed one with beech BP + 20% Dark Al + 2% Iron +3 % Mg, quite hot burning stuff...

Shot like in a roman candle: Nothing -.-

 

Probably it has something to do with the mowital, i hope i'll find the time to test it again.

[aquaman]

Try the prime that you listed and then another just plain old BP. So two primes. I had to do that to a couple of colored star comps that I've tried. If that doesn't work you might have too much lift and you're causing the star to be blown out. Try those two and see if it works.

 

By the way why are you using mowital insted of dextrin or something else? Dextrin is really easy to make.

[Spider]

Ok, I think after first of august i'll try it.

I used mowital, cause I wasn't so sure about the Al-Water Stuff. But next time i'll use dextrin. And I won't cut those stars... my cut stars are always so crumbly-.-

[psyco_1322]

Whats a good prime thats hot and lights easy? Last one I used cause my display to fail. They tested good but didnt perform as good.

[aquaman]

What kind of star(s) are you using?

 

If you can use BP, try a first prime of 50% of the star comp and 50% BP, then for the second prime just 100% BP. That is only if you can use BP. If you can't I have perchlorate primes and a prime for magnesium stars. Some stars need a hotter inner prime and a second prime thats easy to ignite but is hot enough to ignite the first prime. I had to do this with a couple of Al based stars.

[psyco_1322]

Ya its mostly some new jcolored star comps im trying out. The are ClO4 based with carbonates in them so no hazards. I dont have any chlorate so its out of the question. I have a Mg based strobe star that I like jand it could use some prime but I dont make it often because I have to grind my own Mg, since I have ordered none. I might try the 50/50 idea but I dont wanna make a different prime for all my stars. I was using a perchlorate prime and it wasnt to easy lighting. <It was the one that make my display fail and the rest of it got sacrificed to become a comet I shot the other night.

This is it:

KClO4:74

Red gum:12

Charcoal:6

Al:3

I used air float and bright Al. Bright is all I have for fine Al. I also figured that the red gum was the binder and used alcohol for wetting it. Thats the exeact formula as I found it so....specifics are as good as your guess. Ya some differernt primes would be appriciated. If you wanna keep on topic you can just PM then to me. Thanks:)