Coarse Metals for Star/Comet Tails

[LiamPyro]

Looking to add some nice tails to my colored stars… between Ti (sponge -10+20 mesh and spherical -30+100), FeTi (-40+325 and -30+60), MgAl (-30+60), or aluminum flitters (-20+80), what kinds of effects can I expect? From what I’ve read, particles under 100 mesh are likely to burn within the flame envelope and wash out the color. I’m assuming that coarser metals will give longer hanging but more sparse tails, and are best suited to larger stars/comets. Besides these general guidelines, I’ve noticed that the combustion temperature of the composition also plays a role.
 

If anyone has any insight on the best strategy for adding metals for a tail aside from simple trial and error with test batches, let me know! Also looking for good bright/bushy (fast-burning) comet formulas in general, streamers/glitters/colors, if anyone has any favorites to share. 

Edited Wednesday at 06:59 AM by LiamPyro

[Carbon796]

I tried Feti once, in a aqua or green iirc. It totally ruined the color. I believe most of it burned up in the flame envelope. That was probably the -40+325 variety.

This is a green 4" comet. With spherical TI pressed in only one half/end of it. Think it was -30+100. What ever that cheaper spherical Ti was.  That was readily available 10-15 years ago . A little sparse, but " worked ".

I would guess the effect probably works best, with organic fueled color stars. Or color stars with a lower metal fueled content.

John Werner's silver comet formula, was always a favorite of mine. It looks great with just about any coarse metal in it. Especially Mg/Al -8+30 and spherical Ti -30+100. Usually for comets/stars I generally gravitated towards coarser metals like +50 if not +30. 

First shell is C6 plus coarse Ti flake. It's pressed in to tube's. So I imagine as comets. It would probably be brighter and bushier. A farfalla comp is/would be very similar.

https://youtu.be/SYpqqD_k6_Y?feature=shared

Edited Thursday at 01:03 AM by Carbon796

[LiamPyro]

Nice videos, thanks for sharing! Do you mind sharing the silver comet formula? I’m not able to find it online.

[Carbon796]

John Werner's silver comet.

.54 kno3

.18 Sufur

.09 AL -50+150 granular aluminum

.08 AF charcoal 

.03 Mg/AL -200

.03 Chinese needle 

.05 Dex

I listed his first name incorrectly above. Probably didn't help, corrected it.

Edited Thursday at 01:07 AM by Carbon796

[LiamPyro]

Great, thanks! The types of aluminum I have on hand are the coarse flitters mentioned above, as well as atomized 200-325 mesh, bright flake (325 mesh?), and some dark pyro aluminum. Do you think the flitters would be the best substitute for the granular aluminum in the formula? 

[Carbon796]

Yes, IMHO that would be the best place to start, for that formula. With what you currently have on hand.  But, I would try to get ahold of some coarse chunky Mg/AL or AL for the future. Iirc the original spec AL in that formula has a really nice sizzle to it, in flight. And a very coarse Mg/AL will almost have a glitter quality to it.

 

 

[LiamPyro]

I currently have all the metals listed in the original post, so 30-60 mesh MgAl is an option too. Maybe I’ll give that a shot. I like the idea of a sizzling comet!

[Carbon796]

Yes, that would definitely be one to try.

If you have the -30+100 spherical Ti also. I would try both of those before the thinner flake AL. Just be mindful of your tooling. The Ti will ruin it quick.

Iirc, I shot a few of those as 2" comets, with the spherical Ti. At a few club meets. And they always impressed.

 

Edited Thursday at 06:22 PM by Carbon796

[LiamPyro]

Luckily most of my tooling is homemade with loose tolerances (or easily replaceable parts) so I don’t have to worry about using Ti/FeTi of any mesh. I’ll make some test comets. Thanks for the advice!

[Arthur]

Woody's tooling is made with plastic parts that sacrifice themselves to sharp metals cheaply and can be easily and cheaply replaced.

[Carbon796]

For your flitter aluminum you can try this formula. It is my personal, metal fueled streamer comet comp. 

.50 KP

.15 German flake coarse

.15 flitter coarse 

.10 -325 bright flake

.05 IBA/German drk

.05 Sulfur 

+ .035 SGRS or .05/06 dex

It is harder to light, but the S & IBA make it easier. Use a hot prime. The German flake is thicker/denser than flitters AL. It will light up and hang/float in the air. Much more than a flitter type ( FYI )  but with your materials try .10 or .15 -325 & .30 or .25 AL flitter. It should still look pretty nice.

[LiamPyro]

Ok thanks for the formula! I’ve been looking to try some KP/Al flitter/wave comps. Would monocapa light this, or does it need an even hotter prime?

[Carbon796]

I've never used the monocapa prime. But. It works on the same thermitic principle, of what I used. So my guess is, it should be fine. You're just not going to get those lit, with only a thin coat of scratch mix prime . . .