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Posted

What is in your opinion the best way to fuse and prime inserts that go into a very hard broken shell?

 

Bombettes from cakes made in china often have just a piece of visco fuse pressed into the plug. I found this never works with inserts in a hard broken shell.

A real crossmatched spoletta is needed.

 

 

I find making really good BP is a lot of work with my small ballmill, while slowflash is made relatively quickly.

Some nitrate flash, maybe dilluted with greenmix to keep it from developing to much shattering effect would suit my needs much better.

Do you find this a realistic option?

Posted
For the inserts I use PL6 Fuse from Portugal. Its 6mm time fuse with a plastic outer coating. You cut the fuse the exact same lenght and insert it into a thin soft 6mm ID tube and tie the timefuse in place with string. Then add blackmatch like a regular spolette. As you can see in my Video this created spot on timing, every insert went of the exact same time.
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Posted

 

I use PL6 Fuse from Portugal

Never had it in my hands. How does it compare to bickford fuse?

Posted

Here Is what I was able to do with a tiny 4" cylinder.

 

https://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/files/file/143-100mm-2-mosaic-redsilver/

That was impressive. Looked like some quality craftsmanship on making the shell too.

 

You said "PLxxx" Time Fuse which was plastic wrapped. Is that the blasting fuse? I don't think that's available here in the U.S. in hobby quantities.

 

I have however used a similar construction with the Chinese knock off Time Fuse, especially on short pieces, where I glue it into a small section of tube and finish it like a spolette with black match to increase the fire spit.

 

I also can't argue against the insert break comp that you are using, those were pretty good looking!

 

Charles

Posted (edited)

 

Bombettes from cakes made in china often have just a piece of visco fuse pressed into the plug. I found this never works with inserts in a hard broken shell.

 

Though we criticize the quality of Chinese products, you gotta hand it to them that their fusing is pretty effective for such a quick method, and their stars light no matter how hard they break the shell/insert - none of which would work for me!

 

Ive seen some people suggest that their use of visco is effective because it's not the same coated Visco we see / buy here. The uncoated Visco takes fire / spits sparks from the side easily. Maybe that's a main factor for their method.

 

Charles

Edited by cmjlab
Posted (edited)

For Main burst charge I use 3-5mm blackpowder coated cork granules mixxed with a bit of Course polverone. For stutatas where all the inserts go off at the same time I dust the Burst charge with a bit of slow flash. For this method it is highly recommend to use Cork granules as a coating Media because it flows alot better than rice hulls.

 

For the Inserts burst charge I use 35Kno3/35Kclo4/30AlDark. You need very well primed Stars for hard breaks. The italian inserts sometimes break insanely hard.

 

Here Is what I was able to do with a tiny 4" cylinder.

 

https://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/files/file/143-100mm-2-mosaic-redsilver/

Very good method of construction, in my opinion you should use a stronger breaking charge for the inserts, increasing the perchlorate and changing the potassium nitrate to barium nitrate, i like to add a bit of magnesium or magnalium to increase the quantity of burning gas. Edited by kingkama
Posted

That was impressive. Looked like some quality craftsmanship on making the shell too.

 

You said "PLxxx" Time Fuse which was plastic wrapped. Is that the blasting fuse? I don't think that's available here in the U.S. in hobby quantities.

 

I have however used a similar construction with the Chinese knock off Time Fuse, especially on short pieces, where I glue it into a small section of tube and finish it like a spolette with black match to increase the fire spit.

 

I also can't argue against the insert break comp that you are using, those were pretty good looking!

 

Charles

It essentialy is the same a chinese bickford fuse just with a extra plastic coating and it comes with sizes from 6-10mm OD.

 

The plastic coating might be important since the Italian fireworks are constructed completely dry without any glue at all. This means the fuse is only held in place with a knot of String. In my mind the plastic helps creating a fireproof seal.

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Posted

If that Portuguese fuse is like Italian "Monetti" fuse it's just like Chinese 1/4" time fuse but made with a stiff plastic coating. Nice to use and easy to cut precisely even in short pieces.

Posted (edited)

"Monetti" is the fuse made in Portugal. Monetti just buys it from them

 

Its is made by "Martins & Martins Lda."

Edited by Kalifireworks
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