Richtee Posted October 18, 2022 Posted October 18, 2022 Here’s a .75” hand rolled tube. I used a .22 shell with the head cut off for a fuse “grommet”. “Rolled” the shell brass around a .125” steel rod with linesmans pliers. Coated the hole in the tube with sodium silicate and glued in the “grommet”. Really prolongs tube life if you don’t flowerpot salute shells
cmjlab Posted October 19, 2022 Posted October 19, 2022 (edited) Nice Looks like a solid tube / cardboard mortar. What adhesive did you use to roll it? Or did you use sodium silicate for that too?Charles Edited October 19, 2022 by cmjlab
Richtee Posted October 20, 2022 Author Posted October 20, 2022 Wood glue, I have done them with silicate as well. Perhaps a “stiffer” tube that way, but MUCH more messy
cmjlab Posted October 20, 2022 Posted October 20, 2022 I'd bet! I don't like getting sodium silicate on my hands for some reason. But I like your method for controlling fuse hole erosion. Very creative. Side Note:. I have a bunch of .40 S&W reloads I paid a friend for, before I realized that it's not great to use those specific reloads. Is it possible to remove a unfired primer from the casing after the bullet and smokeless propellant are removed? Or would I need a reloading press / primer press to safely get them out? If feasible, I'd like to try using the primers in crossettes like JustVisiting came up with some time ago, but I can't ind any in store, and if possible would like to use "free" ones. Charles
Powderman Posted October 21, 2022 Posted October 21, 2022 (edited) I have never liked the idea of using fuses, the reasons are it is consumed so you have to buy or make it, and the most important - after igniting there is little to do if something happens suddenly (cat comes to inspect what it is, someone unwanted apperas on place, etc...) I would like to share what I have found to be very reliable and easy way for igniting star testers and similar things. A small bit of thin stainless steel wire soldered to thin solid copper wires and inserted via two holes on opposite sides, just above the endplug of the tube. The holes are glue sealed then and long enough wire is attached. For the "glow" wire I am using one strand from bicycle shifter wire (SS version) which is approximately 0,2mm diameter. Easy obtainable and I allready had it at hand. For soldering use dedicated fluid (flux) for SS. Fluid for soldering aluminum works good too. It can also be done with zinc chloride. Be sure that the wires overlap 5-10mm to avoid melting when operated. The whole circuit including cables should have resistance a bit over one ohm. I use single lithium ion 18650 cell to fire it (it has cca 4V, quite common thing these days). Properly working the wire should glow dark orange when battery is connected - should be tested before gluing into tube. It ignites the BP with a small delay after connecting the battery. It lasts and if needed the wire can be replaced. And it costs next to nothing. Edited October 21, 2022 by Powderman 1
Richtee Posted October 21, 2022 Author Posted October 21, 2022 I'd bet! I don't like getting sodium silicate on my hands for some reason. But I like your method for controlling fuse hole erosion. Very creative. Side Note:. I have a bunch of .40 S&W reloads I paid a friend for, before I realized that it's not great to use those specific reloads. Is it possible to remove a unfired primer from the casing after the bullet and smokeless propellant are removed? Or would I need a reloading press / primer press to safely get them out? If feasible, I'd like to try using the primers in crossettes like JustVisiting came up with some time ago, but I can't ind any in store, and if possible would like to use "free" ones. CharlesYEah..primers have been “unobtanium” for a while. And as far as removing... I’d have to think a press would be the only way. Only way I’d want to do it anyway. And... Powderman... that’s interesting. Could probably use a crimp connection in lieu of solder. Heck... alligator clips right to the crimps on either side of tube.
SharkWhisperer Posted October 28, 2022 Posted October 28, 2022 At least here in the US, the pandemic shortage is mostly over. One of many sources for primers delivered to your door, unless you live in some of the nanny states/cities... https://www.sportsmans.com/shooting-gear-gun-supplies/reloading-equipment-supplies/primers/c/cat100161?kwr=primers percussion caps, too. https://percussioncaps10.store/Shop/schuetzen-musket-caps/ And BP for the lazy...
TXpyro Posted January 12 Posted January 12 On 10/20/2022 at 6:14 PM, cmjlab said: Is it possible to remove a unfired primer from the casing after the bullet and smokeless propellant are removed? Or would I need a reloading press / primer press to safely get them out? I use a nail in a pair of pliers and a hammer to fire the primer while it's in my vise. Once I do that, I just hit it with a small punch from the inside of the casing to remove it. Just make sure you're away from anything flammable. I recommend taking the vise outside, wearing gloves, using hearing protection, and making a blast shield out of a piece of acrylic.
Richtee Posted January 13 Author Posted January 13 17 hours ago, TXpyro said: I use a nail in a pair of pliers and a hammer to fire the primer while it's in my vise. I think you missed the “unfired” qualification...
TXpyro Posted January 13 Posted January 13 3 hours ago, Richtee said: I think you missed the “unfired” qualification... Oh. I didn't see that lol
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