Richtee Posted July 19, 2023 Author Posted July 19, 2023 No speed test here, but I tried the graphite coating on my latest batch. Wow... it’s purty
MicroGram Posted November 17, 2023 Posted November 17, 2023 (edited) Here's some Willow mill dust made a cpl weeks ago. Already running low so I'll be making another batch (or many) soon. Also my hemp stalks are nearly dry so I'll be doing some batches with hemp coal as well. BP.MOV Edited November 17, 2023 by MicroGram
Richtee Posted November 18, 2023 Author Posted November 18, 2023 Here's some Willow mill dust made a cpl weeks ago. Already running low so I'll be making another batch (or many) soon. Also my hemp stalks are nearly dry so I'll be doing some batches with hemp coal as well.Seems solid. Let’s see it corned. And the hemp should be interesting.
SharkWhisperer Posted November 19, 2023 Posted November 19, 2023 Here's some Willow mill dust made a cpl weeks ago. Already running low so I'll be making another batch (or many) soon. Also my hemp stalks are nearly dry so I'll be doing some batches with hemp coal as well.Spicy! Homemade or commercial willow coal? Willow is still my favorite, even beating decent commercial paulownia.
MicroGram Posted November 19, 2023 Posted November 19, 2023 Yep willow is my go-to right now as there's a massive tree near my place. That reminds me. I need to go collect some more branches before it snows. There's enough branches on the ground i can pick just the aged ones without the bark at the size I want, etc. Seems solid. Let’s see it corned. And the hemp should be interesting.Thanks! I haven't corned any in awhile. Just granulating these days! Might make some help coal today actually. Well see!
cmjlab Posted November 19, 2023 Posted November 19, 2023 Aside from measure by volume, what value do you get from corning B.P.? (Not me picking a fight or starting a semantics debate about the many different naming variations and/or lack of consensus....), just curious.
Richtee Posted November 19, 2023 Author Posted November 19, 2023 Aside from measure by volume, what value do you get from corning B.P.? (Not me picking a fight or starting a semantics debate about the many different naming variations and/or lack of consensus....), just curious.Concentration of gas volume and controlled burning rate. Hot BP mill dust is damn near Vitamin F. useless for MOST BP applications. And, convenience of measurment. Plus..it’s cool looking.
SharkWhisperer Posted November 19, 2023 Posted November 19, 2023 Aside from measure by volume, what value do you get from corning B.P.? (Not me picking a fight or starting a semantics debate about the many different naming variations and/or lack of consensus....), just curious.Like RT mentioned, corning gives a more uniform density BP than wet granulating. And a much higher density of the final product. While the same size granule pressed/broken up burns slower than the same sized granulate, at higher density it contains more overall chems and thus total energy. It can also be broken/polished into a variety of not just sizes but shapes, too, for finer-tuned burn characteristics. This is important for firearms, especially with cartridges that are fully loaded--you can get more 'pow' in the same volume. For hobbyist burst/lift these details aren't so critical. And beginning hobbyists typically make BP that burns on the slow end, so the the modestly increased speed of wet-granulate vs same size pressed is welcome. Commercial fireworking BP, whether in 1.4g shells or pro shows, uses high-density pressed/corned BP that often comes from the same factories that make BP for firearms (e.g., Goex, now restarting life as Estes Energetics manufactured blasting, aka FA, aka fireworking BP, too). 1
DavidF Posted November 19, 2023 Posted November 19, 2023 For me, pucking and corning is useful when comparing different charcoals, milling times, and milling media. Also, granulated powders have a wide variation in burning speed sometimes, which can come from the drying conditions on any given day and other factors. When I make screen-mixed black powder with fine pre-milled BP charcoals, I can moisten it with a pre-measured amount of water, and press to a pre-determined density. This allows for a very consistent final product that can be made on demand at any time, regardless of the weather. And before anybody claims that screen-mixed black powder cannot rival commercial black powder, let me just suggest that it may be true for them- but that doesn't make it universally true. The key is intimacy of incorporation, and that can be achieved in more than one way. 3 component milling is one of those ways.
Richtee Posted November 20, 2023 Author Posted November 20, 2023 For me, pucking and corning is useful when comparing different charcoals, milling times, and milling media. Also, granulated powders have a wide variation in burning speed sometimes, which can come from the drying conditions on any given day and other factors. When I make screen-mixed black powder with fine pre-milled BP charcoals, I can moisten it with a pre-measured amount of water, and press to a pre-determined density. This allows for a very consistent final product that can be made on demand at any time, regardless of the weather. And before anybody claims that screen-mixed black powder cannot rival commercial black powder, let me just suggest that it may be true for them- but that doesn't make it universally true. The key is intimacy of incorporation, and that can be achieved in more than one way. 3 component milling is one of those ways.I only use 3 component milling. I have tried the screening and other methods, but remain convinced pressing and corning is the only way to get a consistent, strong powder.
Guest Posted November 20, 2023 Posted November 20, 2023 Can I play too?Here’s my lift made from cottonwood. This shorts thing is getting annoying.https://youtube.com/shorts/OnTUefaPwJE
Richtee Posted November 20, 2023 Author Posted November 20, 2023 Can I play too? LOL...sure! Noice! Bet that would stand the white paper test pretty well...
MicroGram Posted November 23, 2023 Posted November 23, 2023 (edited) Here's some Hemp coal BP balls resting before granulation. About 1200 grams or so @1.5% dextrin. Edited November 23, 2023 by MicroGram
Zumber Posted March 20 Posted March 20 On 5/4/2022 at 5:26 AM, SharkWhisperer said: Ayite, I'll play! My easy-ignite visco (bp in rubber cement ball--makes some flexible stuff!) seems to have jumped the shark, hah ha ha !!! Phone smells like BP smoke now! Yup, premature esparkulation. In the still you can see the sparks jump before the fuse is even lit, hah ha. Next frame you can still see the unburnt half of the line... Eye protection! Wooooof.mp4 18.6 MB · 45 downloads Whoa...!! thats pretty fast☺️
All10Fingers Posted March 21 Posted March 21 Ok so I didnt exactly follow procedure in this one. This was in October It was windy and wet outside. Plus I didn't have my BBQ lighter. After struggling for a bit. I just lit the corner of the paper itself then stepped back and filmed. But you get sense of it. VID_20231025_174942795~2.mp4
SharkWhisperer Posted March 23 Posted March 23 On 3/20/2024 at 4:06 PM, Zumber said: Whoa...!! thats pretty fast☺️ Tx, that's pretty expected. Usual speed. I've made faster but "fast enough" works ok for me. Just follow the basics--good charcoal and a mill, even if it's a 'rock tumbler'. That was BP made from scrounged weeping willow limbs turned into coal. Haifa KNO3. The cheapest oil rig sulfur known ($3/pound everywhere). Wet-granulated but never pucked/corned. Hot enough for firearms use, if desired (here's where pucking/corning gets important). Last week I tested some milled paulownia coal BP (charcoal from Michael at firework charcoal) as milldust and it was great--but my homemade willow BP is still probably a little faster. Hot BP is not magic. It's actually pretty easy. If you have good charcoal, dry chems & a mill/tumbler. You will never make good BP from shitty charcoal. Ever. That includes "commercial airfloat charcoal" from anywhere. Stupid, means-nothing name. It's trash leftovers from making bbq briquettes, ffs. It's garbage coal. Milling is basic and makes life simple. Mill clumping = no milling. Dry your chems (both charcoal and KNO3). if you have mill clumping, the milling stopped a long time ago, and your efforts are wasted. Drying C and KNO3 (250F for an hour) is a simple and effective preventative fix. Mills should not "clump". Ever. I could spin my bp for a friggin year knowing it would not clump up. Anyways, have at it! Let's see your BP!!!
ifixs Posted March 28 Posted March 28 hello what is your composition because even with a ball mill I can't see this result
Richtee Posted March 29 Author Posted March 29 22 hours ago, ifixs said: hello what is your composition because even with a ball mill I can't see this result Don't know whom you are addressing here, but I’d wager most if not all of these powders are standard 75-15-10 mixes. If you are an astute reader, you will have picked up that the charcoal type is the biggest factor in quality BP. Method of production certainly matters as well, and ball milling is probably the best way. Screening works, but pucking and corning will give you more consistent and powerful results.
ifixs Posted March 29 Posted March 29 7 hours ago, Richtee said: Don't know whom you are addressing here, but I’d wager most if not all of these powders are standard 75-15-10 mixes. If you are an astute reader, you will have picked up that the charcoal type is the biggest factor in quality BP. Method of production certainly matters as well, and ball milling is probably the best way. Screening works, but pucking and corning will give you more consistent and powerful results. thank you for your response can you tell me differently type of charcoal to use. I use charcoal for the barbecue so I don't know what wood was used. Where can I find ebooks on the forum?
Richtee Posted March 29 Author Posted March 29 (edited) BBQ charcoal is the worst thing you can use. You have no hope using that. I use mostly willow wood and make my own charcoal. Yer gonna need to do some research. Search “Black powder” - there are probably thousands of posts on it here. Do not be impatient. Impatience makes mistakes, and mistakes can be lethal in this hobby. As a frame of reference, I have been reading and working on this hobby 30 years. Perhaps twice your age. PATIENCE! Edited March 29 by Richtee 1
Zumber Posted March 30 Posted March 30 12 hours ago, ifixs said: thank you for your response can you tell me differently type of charcoal to use. I use charcoal for the barbecue so I don't know what wood was used. Where can I find ebooks on the forum? Softwood charcoal ( wood having light in weight). Lightweight wood is more porous than hardwood charcoal and produces more porous charcoal. If charcoal is more porous more kno3 particles mixes into charcoal pore this is important affecting burn rate. Thats the reason why lightweight charcoal is useful for hot BP. Hardwood charcoal gives more hang time and spark duration than lightwood. 1
ifixs Posted March 30 Posted March 30 6 hours ago, Zumber said: Charbon de bois résineux (bois léger). Le bois léger est plus poreux que le charbon de bois dur et produit un charbon de bois plus poreux. Si le charbon de bois est plus poreux, davantage de particules de kno3 se mélangent dans les pores du charbon de bois, ce qui affecte grandement le taux de combustion. C'est la raison pour laquelle le charbon de bois léger est utile pour les tensions chaudes. Le charbon de bois dur donne plus de temps de suspension et de durée d'étincelle que le bois clair. Hello, so if I understand correctly, light charcoal mixes better with KNO3, resulting in a faster combustion. Could you give me the names of the wood used for rapid combustion? I've seen woods like birch, willow, alder, maple, poplar that might be suitable.
Zumber Posted March 30 Posted March 30 Willow could be better. In our country none of above charcoal (tree ) is available. Pine is for charcoal effect star having more hand time and spark duration thus suitable for charcoal effect stars. Having only type of charcoal is not important. Purity of chemicals ,degree of mixing, particle size of material ,milling duration and method of producing bp granules ( just granulating, pressing and then corning) affects burn rate of BP.
Richtee Posted March 30 Author Posted March 30 3 hours ago, ifixs said: Hello, so if I understand correctly, light charcoal mixes better with KNO3, resulting in a faster combustion. Could you give me the names of the wood used for rapid combustion? I've seen woods like birch, willow, alder, maple, poplar that might be suitable. In general, the lighter (less dense) the wood the better. I don’t know what you have available. Willow makes some of the best. I hear balsa’s the cat’s ass, but have never tried it. I have done experiments with paulownia wood, supposedly better than willow, but my results do not confirm that. And I don’t know why “The Cat’s Ass” is an idiom for "the best”. I detest cats. And their asses. 1
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