I need a starting point for black powder Rocket Fuel Please

[Uarbor]

So I have been making sugar rockets for a while now and am enjoying it quite a bit. I decided to purchase some tooling for 1 pound Rockets. I purchased the fire Smith Universal tooling after reading a million posts were people said that's what they would have gotten first if anything. My tubes are here and I am ready to start on some fuel. I have a ball mill which I use for making black powder. I plan on hand ramming the Rockets. I have read different threads about this until my sight grew dim LOL I don't know if I should ball mill it at all I don't know if I should add mineral oil I don't know if I should rice it or not first or use dextrin. I'm not looking to make the hottest possible rocket imaginable however the tool maker recommends I use hot black powder. But I don't know what that means when it comes to Black Powder rocket fuel. To me it meant ball mill it. I don't have a bunch of screens for mixing. I have kitchen strainers and a frying splatter shield which is much finer. Can anyone please just give me a starting recipe so I can get myself dialed in without it just exploding instantly thank you in advance for any help. Edited May 28, 2021 by Uarbor

[SharkWhisperer]

So I have been making sugar rockets for a while now and am enjoying it quite a bit. I decided to purchase some tooling for 1 pound Rockets. I purchased the fire Smith Universal tooling after reading a million posts were people said that's what they would have gotten first if anything. My tubes are here and I am ready to start on some fuel. I have a ball mill which I use for making black powder. I plan on hand ramming the Rockets. I have read different threads about this until my sight grew dim LOL I don't know if I should ball mill it at all I don't know if I should add mineral oil I don't know if I should rice it or not first or use dextrin. I'm not looking to make the hottest possible rocket imaginable however the tool maker recommends I use hot black powder. But I don't know what that means when it comes to Black Powder rocket fuel. To me it meant ball mill it. I don't have a bunch of screens for mixing. I have kitchen strainers and a frying splatter shield which is much finer. Can anyone please just give me a starting recipe so I can get myself dialed in without it just exploding instantly thank you in advance for any help.

End burners like Estes rocket motors only have a short core and can use hot BP (75:15:10). If you're making nozzleless coreburners, you can use hot BP, too. Typical fireworking motors are nozzled core-burners that will explode if you try to use this hot powder, and usually operate best with a more fuel rich mix like 60-65% KNO3 (still 10% S, the balance being charcoal).

 

With new tooling and uncertain BP, the usual optimization process is starting with slowish BP, and going hotter, hotter, hotter, BOOM, a little slower. Done.

 

I always mill my BP for rocket fuel. Wet granulate your BP to make it less dusty when ramming (water is fine and free but I use 70% IPA because it dries faster). Unless it's been baking in the hot sun for hours after granulating, even with IPA my BP almost always contains water when it feels dry to the touch--this is demonstrated by storing it with color-indicating dessicant/silica packets overnight to absorb residual water. Granulated powder (no dextrin) can easily be crushed back to powder or small granules for easy handling/motor loading. Don't complicate things by adding mineral oil. Adding back 2% water, sprayed on your dry BP powder (granules are easy to crush/screen back down to powder) and well-mixed in will make compaction easier during ramming and improve fuel grain consistency vs dry powder. Your BP powder, after wetting, will likely still feel dry to the touch, but it is not. You can let new motors dry for a few days (the water in the BP will equilibrate with the dry paper tubes, and some will evaporate), but many people have no problem flying freshly rammed motors--that water should not affect your burn and may actually improve it slightly. You don't need a ton of screens to make rockets. Frying splatter screens are around 30 mesh, and are fine for screen-mixing BP with water, and for mixing many other comps, too. Usually kitchen screens and colanders are stainless steel, but check because you don't want to risk sparks, though that's primarily a concern when mixing comps with metals. Flour sifters from the dollar store work well too, and have a rim. Many kitchen strainers can be useful. You can determine the mesh by taking a caliper or ruler and counting how many holes/inch--that's your approximate mesh size (slight variability depending on wire thickness).

 

DO NOT ADD DEXTRIN to your rocket fuel. You do not want hard granules--it won't work well. Dextrin is only for making hard BP granules for mortar shell lift/burst, and as a binder for some stars/comets and to give some structure to blackmatch. NOT for rocket fuel. No dextrin in rocket fuel BP.

 

Consistency in making BP, in handling BP, in measuring/loading fuel increments, and in ramming parameters (force and # of hits/increment if hand ramming) is essential to getting consistently reliably-flying rockets.

 

You might get lucky on the first try, or you might have to tinker a bit to get things working the way you want it.

 

Use a sufficiently long fuse to start, to give yourself time to get back to a safe distance and maybe shoot some video (recommended--can learn a lot from slow-motion replays). And please wear eye protection, even if you think you're at a reasonably safe distance. Rockets can tip and nozzles can turn into projectiles. Plan for the unexpected until you've got things dialed in just right. And then still plan for the unexpected.

 

Suggest you take detailed notes of all aspects of your process, from BP manufacture (composition, milling times/volumes...) to screening (through what, with what, and how many times...), size/weight/volume of BP motor fuel increments, ramming parameters, etc. It makes a very good reference for you to troubleshoot BP and motor performance, and can be super valuable as a reference to refresh your memory if you're doing something after a long (or short) vacation from it--it is very difficult to remember precise steps you took if you don't do it all the time. It's like a pilot's checklist. A detailed notebook is your friend.

Edited May 28, 2021 by SharkWhisperer

[davidh]

For 1lb BP rockets, make RP, which is 6-3-1 KNO3, charcoal, and S. You can mill it together, or just use fine chemicals and make a green mix. I highly recommend granulating your powder. Just dampen with enough water to make a cohesive, crumbly ball when squeezed, and screen. I would use an 12 mesh. No dextrin or other binders! If it's too hot add charcoal. If it's too weak, add BP. These rockets are hard to screw up, so don't overthink it.

 

Also, use a clay nozzle. Leave the weird stuff for after you get the good rockets working. Then you can try the questionable stuff.

Edited May 28, 2021 by davidh

[Uarbor]

Thanks for all the help guys. By the way I ordered some airfloat charcoal just for the sake of consistency instead of using homemade.

[justvisiting]

Rockets have been rammed by hand for hundreds of years. The reliability comes from using weak propellant and a nozzle. Nozzleless rockets can use hot BP, yes. I would not expect reliability from 1lb hand-rammed rockets made using hot BP. I'd press those, and expect perfect reliability.

[Mumbles]

A few other tips that might save some headaches while getting up to speed.

 

Watch your increment size. You don't really want to go any more than adding about 1 ID of height at a time (3/4" in this case), which generally means around 10 increments to complete the fuel portion. Don't be afraid to bump that up to 15 or more. This helps to get better compaction, especially with hand ramming.

 

Get a good hammer and a good ramming base. Dead blow hammers or rawhide hammers are quite popular. They wont damage the tooling, and are good at delivering all the force to the composition. The same goes with the base in a way. You want something solid that will absorb the vibrations and impact of ramming, and not bounce back up. Stumps, fence posts, heavy tables etc. tend to be quite popular and efficient.

 

Once you get things dialed in and become confident, don't be afraid of making a big batch of propellant. Every batch is a little different. Having a bigger stock of good fuel can help to prevent constant readjusting and can prevent frustration. Changes in raw materials can definitely make a difference.

 

Related to that last statement, with commercial airfloat, it's going to be on the slower side of things most likely. I'd start a little hotter, and you can always dial it back. 65:25:10 nitrate:charcoal:sulfur or maybe even 70:20:10. Alternatively, you can mill it together instead of just screen mixing. Even if you think your materials are already really fine, ball milling will make them finer and achieve a better incorporation than you can get from screen mixing. If it's too hot, you can always add a little more charcoal.

 

When reading comments and advice from people, try to see if they mention what kind of charcoal they're using, if they're milling or screening the fuel, and if they're pressing or ramming. I think I covered the first two already, but pressing will pretty much always provide better compaction. Better compaction allows for hotter fuels. Everyone's methods and materials are different. You just need to find that sweet spot that works for you.

[Uarbor]

A few other tips that might save some headaches while getting up to speed.

 

Watch your increment size. You don't really want to go any more than adding about 1 ID of height at a time (3/4" in this case), which generally means around 10 increments to complete the fuel portion. Don't be afraid to bump that up to 15 or more. This helps to get better compaction, especially with hand ramming.

 

Get a good hammer and a good ramming base. Dead blow hammers or rawhide hammers are quite popular. They wont damage the tooling, and are good at delivering all the force to the composition. The same goes with the base in a way. You want something solid that will absorb the vibrations and impact of ramming, and not bounce back up. Stumps, fence posts, heavy tables etc. tend to be quite popular and efficient.

 

Once you get things dialed in and become confident, don't be afraid of making a big batch of propellant. Every batch is a little different. Having a bigger stock of good fuel can help to prevent constant readjusting and can prevent frustration. Changes in raw materials can definitely make a difference.

 

Related to that last statement, with commercial airfloat, it's going to be on the slower side of things most likely. I'd start a little hotter, and you can always dial it back. 65:25:10 nitrate:charcoal:sulfur or maybe even 70:20:10. Alternatively, you can mill it together instead of just screen mixing. Even if you think your materials are already really fine, ball milling will make them finer and achieve a better incorporation than you can get from screen mixing. If it's too hot, you can always add a little more charcoal.

 

When reading comments and advice from people, try to see if they mention what kind of charcoal they're using, if they're milling or screening the fuel, and if they're pressing or ramming. I think I covered the first two already, but pressing will pretty much always provide better compaction. Better compaction allows for hotter fuels. Everyone's methods and materials are different. You just need to find that sweet spot that works for you.

thanks. I am milling a batch of 70-20-10 right now as we speak. Using hardwood charcoal from the grocery store because my charcoal order got delayed. I have a nice Hefty 2 pound or so homemade wooden mallet and my work table is made out of 4 inch thick beams. So I'm pretty sure that's going to work out good. Edited May 29, 2021 by Uarbor

[Arthur]

Lancaster, in his book, mentions rocket formulae. He suggested using meal powder straight for small rockets and for larger rockets adding additional charcoal to slow the mix to prevent cato's.

 

Meal powder is fully incorporated/milled BP that has not been granulated. It's messy because it's about 160 mesh. Modern preference for cleanness may prefer the use of granulated powder but with NO binder so that the grains crush easily.

[Uarbor]

End burners like Estes rocket motors only have a short core and can use hot BP (75:15:10). If you're making nozzleless coreburners, you can use hot BP, too. Typical fireworking motors are nozzled core-burners that will explode if you try to use this hot powder, and usually operate best with a more fuel rich mix like 60-65% KNO3 (still 10% S, the balance being charcoal).

 

With new tooling and uncertain BP, the usual optimization process is starting with slowish BP, and going hotter, hotter, hotter, BOOM, a little slower. Done.

 

I always mill my BP for rocket fuel. Wet granulate your BP to make it less dusty when ramming (water is fine and free but I use 70% IPA because it dries faster). Unless it's been baking in the hot sun for hours after granulating, even with IPA my BP almost always contains water when it feels dry to the touch--this is demonstrated by storing it with color-indicating dessicant/silica packets overnight to absorb residual water. Granulated powder (no dextrin) can easily be crushed back to powder or small granules for easy handling/motor loading. Don't complicate things by adding mineral oil. Adding back 2% water, sprayed on your dry BP powder (granules are easy to crush/screen back down to powder) and well-mixed in will make compaction easier during ramming and improve fuel grain consistency vs dry powder. Your BP powder, after wetting, will likely still feel dry to the touch, but it is not. You can let new motors dry for a few days (the water in the BP will equilibrate with the dry paper tubes, and some will evaporate), but many people have no problem flying freshly rammed motors--that water should not affect your burn and may actually improve it slightly. You don't need a ton of screens to make rockets. Frying splatter screens are around 30 mesh, and are fine for screen-mixing BP with water, and for mixing many other comps, too. Usually kitchen screens and colanders are stainless steel, but check because you don't want to risk sparks, though that's primarily a concern when mixing comps with metals. Flour sifters from the dollar store work well too, and have a rim. Many kitchen strainers can be useful. You can determine the mesh by taking a caliper or ruler and counting how many holes/inch--that's your approximate mesh size (slight variability depending on wire thickness).

 

DO NOT ADD DEXTRIN to your rocket fuel. You do not want hard granules--it won't work well. Dextrin is only for making hard BP granules for mortar shell lift/burst, and as a binder for some stars/comets and to give some structure to blackmatch. NOT for rocket fuel. No dextrin in rocket fuel BP.

 

Consistency in making BP, in handling BP, in measuring/loading fuel increments, and in ramming parameters (force and # of hits/increment if hand ramming) is essential to getting consistently reliably-flying rockets.

 

You might get lucky on the first try, or you might have to tinker a bit to get things working the way you want it.

 

Use a sufficiently long fuse to start, to give yourself time to get back to a safe distance and maybe shoot some video (recommended--can learn a lot from slow-motion replays). And please wear eye protection, even if you think you're at a reasonably safe distance. Rockets can tip and nozzles can turn into projectiles. Plan for the unexpected until you've got things dialed in just right. And then still plan for the unexpected.

 

Suggest you take detailed notes of all aspects of your process, from BP manufacture (composition, milling times/volumes...) to screening (through what, with what, and how many times...), size/weight/volume of BP motor fuel increments, ramming parameters, etc. It makes a very good reference for you to troubleshoot BP and motor performance, and can be super valuable as a reference to refresh your memory if you're doing something after a long (or short) vacation from it--it is very difficult to remember precise steps you took if you don't do it all the time. It's like a pilot's checklist. A detailed notebook is your friend.

Thanks for the wealth of information. I was wondering if you could use mineral spirits instead of rubbing alcohol?

[Uarbor]

Thanks for all the help guys. My first two rockets were a good success. I got impatient and decided to hammer some out with Mill dust because it was kind of damp and did not seem too Dusty. They disappeared into the stratosphere in about a third of a second.

[SharkWhisperer]

Thanks for the wealth of information. I was wondering if you could use mineral spirits instead of rubbing alcohol?

For granulating or for loading?

 

For granulating? Maybe. I've never tried it, although I have used mineral spirits for diluting silicone-based comps so they remain workable longer. Gut instinct is that it will continue smelling of mineral spirits for a long time, uh, forever maybe, and that's not a single pure chem you're adding but a poorly defined collection of different volatiles. I like to know exactly what I'm adding, and try to keep things simple. I also prefer having a small amount of water for granulating, whether I'm using 91% IPA (9% water) or 70% IPA (30% water)--if a little bit of nitrate gets dissolved, then it may reach tiny places that it otherwise wouldn't. At room temps, you're not going to have a lot of nitrate going into solution, and maybe a little bit dissolving (temporarily) is not a bad thing. And mineral spirits always cost more than IPA--I saw quarts at Walmart yesterday for $2.50; still no 91% available. Many people granulate with plain water with excellent results--I just like my granules to dry faster because I'm impatient and waiting for BP to dry is like watching paint dry and grass grow...

 

For wetting your fuel and loading? For me that'd be reinventing the wheel. And more akin to your ideas of using mineral oil, though the spirits are for sure much more volatile. I have no idea what your outcome would be, and I never will have the need to try it to find out. Use water. It works well. Keep it simple.

 

Re-read Mumbles comments above--he highlights some essential points to keep in mind. Especially about increment sizes for hand ramming--keep them small. You'll want to keep track of how many increments you use and how much that powder weighs. You can weigh increments or weigh the completed rocket, but then you have to somehow account for clay nozzle and endcap weight, and if you didn't weigh those additions it will be impossible after all's built.

 

I'm slightly concerned that your wooden mallet might be a little "bouncy", and might not uniformly transmit all of the applied force (some is wasted in bounce-back). I use 2, 3, and 4 pound orange plastic lead ball-filled (or similar; maybe sand...) deadblows from HF and they work great and are reasonably tough. I pound on a heavy table, and on mine there's a noticeable difference in bounce from the middle of the table (some play) or directly over one of the heavy legs (little rebound; where I pound). Idea is to consistently get that energy into your increments and not wasting it flexing a table or bouncing a hammer. This probably won't be an issue if your table's constructed of 4x4 timber!

Edited May 30, 2021 by SharkWhisperer

[SharkWhisperer]

Thanks for all the help guys. My first two rockets were a good success. I got impatient and decided to hammer some out with Mill dust because it was kind of damp and did not seem too Dusty. They disappeared into the stratosphere in about a third of a second.

Well, congratulations!!!

 

Video, video, video! Gotta share, amigo!

 

Too soon to get complacent, though :=}

[Uarbor]

Well, congratulations!!!

 

Video, video, video! Gotta share, amigo!

 

Too soon to get complacent, though :=}

thanks. I must say they seem pretty hot. The only reason I was asking about the mineral spirits for granulating was that's all I have right now. I thought it was made of alcohol but it turns out it's a petroleum distillate. I'm just going to stay with conventional and get some alcohol. It's a shame I don't work where I used to work before the pandemic. They did a lot of ball Milling and we're always throwing out there media and they had 55 gallon drums of 98% isopropyl alcohol. They were always throwing out to their gauged screens due to slight wear. Oh well I will be much better off after I get my associate's degree I'm going back to school for. Going back to school at the age of 50. I will try to get one on video. Basically it's in the pipe and then it just disappears into the sky. I hope putting a header on them slows them down a bit. I do love the tooling though Edited May 30, 2021 by Uarbor

[Uarbor]

I guess the next logical step well be working out some sort of delay composition for the header. I read that you can use Tiger Tail composition for delay and a nice tail. Just so happens I already have some milled up. I was thinking of about a half an inch increment for a delay. Does that seem like too much? My main question now is Bulkhead or no bulkhead? My test rocket had about a 3/4 inch bulkhead I don't know if I can just replace that with Tigertail for delay or do I need both?

[SharkWhisperer]

I guess the next logical step well be working out some sort of delay composition for the header. I read that you can use Tiger Tail composition for delay and a nice tail. Just so happens I already have some milled up. I was thinking of about a half an inch increment for a delay. Does that seem like too much? My main question now is Bulkhead or no bulkhead? My test rocket had about a 3/4 inch bulkhead I don't know if I can just replace that with Tigertail for delay or do I need both?

Dude, you need to TIME your delays or they'll end up exploding on launch or when it's coming back home ballistic. TT burns slower than your propellant, but not all that much slower. Headers on rockets typically have timing ignition chains that are similar to the time fuse/spolettes in mortar-lifted aerial shells. Some get away going ghetto--drilling a hole in your bulkhead and using a known length (burn time) of visco. But that's not precision fireworking, and can be pretty unreliable, especially for a new hobbyist.

 

Whatever you're using for timing, you need to build it, measure it, and light it on the ground so that you know that your timing is at least in the ballpark. Your timing fire needs to be repeatable. That means ground testing, several times before attaching it to a header. I'd strongly suggest launching a few more rockets without headers before you start adding them on. And then I'd suggest tossing some pre-weighed inert dummy headers aloft so you know what your rockets can carry.

 

Make some stars out of your TT, for eventual headers (a skill of its own). A lot of corebuners are afire at the bulkhead long before the rocket reaches apogee. You do not want a premature (or delayed) firing of any header. Timing is everything to prevent accidents. Please do not get complacent from early successes with your rockets--you gave it good thought, but luck indeed played a role.

[Uarbor]

Dude, you need to TIME your delays or they'll end up exploding on launch or when it's coming back home ballistic. TT burns slower than your propellant, but not all that much slower. Headers on rockets typically have timing ignition chains that are similar to the time fuse/spolettes in mortar-lifted aerial shells. Some get away going ghetto--drilling a hole in your bulkhead and using a known length (burn time) of visco. But that's not precision fireworking, and can be pretty unreliable, especially for a new hobbyist.

 

Whatever you're using for timing, you need to build it, measure it, and light it on the ground so that you know that your timing is at least in the ballpark. Your timing fire needs to be repeatable. That means ground testing, several times before attaching it to a header. I'd strongly suggest launching a few more rockets without headers before you start adding them on. And then I'd suggest tossing some pre-weighed inert dummy headers aloft so you know what your rockets can carry.

 

Make some stars out of your TT, for eventual headers (a skill of its own). A lot of corebuners are afire at the bulkhead long before the rocket reaches apogee. You do not want a premature (or delayed) firing of any header. Timing is everything to prevent accidents. Please do not get complacent from early successes with your rockets--you gave it good thought, but luck indeed played a role.

good point. Will do. On the sugar Rockets I was using 1 quarter inch of a delay mix I made with baking soda and the hole in the bulkhead and three quarter inches of visco fuse to a premade black powder salute insert. And you are correct definitely not very reliable. I had better luck when I shorten the length of my core though.

[SharkWhisperer]

good point. Will do. On the sugar Rockets I was using 1 quarter inch of a delay mix I made with baking soda and the hole in the bulkhead and three quarter inches of visco fuse to a premade black powder salute insert. And you are correct definitely not very reliable. I had better luck when I shorten the length of my core though.

I pound BP motors for use in finned rockets. I remake "Estes" overpriced motors, but more powerful. I also use a delay comp. For the delay grain, I use my BP propellant, dumbed down with baking soda like you (Estes uses extra sulfur to leave a smoke trail). Usually between 10-15%. That's fine, but you need to know its burn time. And burn time/delay will change if you compact it differently with your hammer.

 

"definitely not reliable" will smoke your ass. You're working with energetic materials. Please don't get casual with this stuff...

[Uarbor]

Well, congratulations!!!

 

Video, video, video! Gotta share, amigo!

 

Too soon to get complacent, though :=}

I spent the entire day making Rockets testing them working out my delay composition and timing. I went through almost a pound of propellant. Then I decided to load one up with a proper salute for Memorial Day. Happy Memorial Day and thanks to all who helped!

 

 

https://youtu.be/DnjiNZglU1Y

[Arthur]

It may be un fashionable but the best source of information is often a book, a real hard bound book. Every piece of information you could possibly want is in Lancaster's book Fireworks, Principles and Practice. ISBN 10: 0820603546ISBN 13: 9780820603544 Gets you the third edition. There is a fourth edition also.

 

Ron Lancaster was the owner of Kimbolton Fireworks, who for a long time did the prestige firework displays in England. He was also a Chemistry teacher and Vicar.

[Uarbor]

It may be un fashionable but the best source of information is often a book, a real hard bound book. Every piece of information you could possibly want is in Lancaster's book Fireworks, Principles and Practice. ISBN 10: 0820603546ISBN 13: 9780820603544 Gets you the third edition. There is a fourth edition also.

 

Ron Lancaster was the owner of Kimbolton Fireworks, who for a long time did the prestige firework displays in England. He was also a Chemistry teacher and Vicar.

wow thanks

[Arthur]

Buying a book may cost money but likely less than the cost of wasted chemicals, and certainly less than the copay for a health insurance accident.

[Uarbor]

Buying a book may cost money but likely less than the cost of wasted chemicals, and certainly less than the copay for a health insurance accident.

I love books. I have books for all of my hobbies I will definitely get this one. Actually I'm in the habit of buying at least three books on a given subject so I can cross reference Edited June 2, 2021 by Uarbor

[Arthur]

"Pyrotechnics" by George Weingart is an interesting book and cheap! BUT Comes from the era when chlorates were the only available oxidisers that made colours well, so while there is some interest, the formulae are basicaly useless to dangerous, though they do offer a historical perspective on what comps used to be.

[Uarbor]

Dude, you need to TIME your delays or they'll end up exploding on launch or when it's coming back home ballistic. TT burns slower than your propellant, but not all that much slower. Headers on rockets typically have timing ignition chains that are similar to the time fuse/spolettes in mortar-lifted aerial shells. Some get away going ghetto--drilling a hole in your bulkhead and using a known length (burn time) of visco. But that's not precision fireworking, and can be pretty unreliable, especially for a new hobbyist.

 

Whatever you're using for timing, you need to build it, measure it, and light it on the ground so that you know that your timing is at least in the ballpark. Your timing fire needs to be repeatable. That means ground testing, several times before attaching it to a header. I'd strongly suggest launching a few more rockets without headers before you start adding them on. And then I'd suggest tossing some pre-weighed inert dummy headers aloft so you know what your rockets can carry.

 

Make some stars out of your TT, for eventual headers (a skill of its own). A lot of corebuners are afire at the bulkhead long before the rocket reaches apogee. You do not want a premature (or delayed) firing of any header. Timing is everything to prevent accidents. Please do not get complacent from early successes with your rockets--you gave it good thought, but luck indeed played a role.

Tiger Tail stars as requested

 

https://youtu.be/Xcj-6sWMrAA

[SharkWhisperer]

Tiger Tail stars as requested

 

https://youtu.be/Xcj-6sWMrAA

Amigo, that was really nice!!! Burst was timed precisely for apogee, rockets are reliable, altitude was appropriate, and all stars seemed to have lit up nicely.

 

Excellent job. You have a knack for fireworking, brights, persistence in learning and troubleshooting, and are rapidly advancing in the hobby.

 

I expect you will have an entertaining 4th of July!

 

Nice job!!!