My Story - Project Firework

[deepakpyro]

Hello Pyro Lovers -

 

I would say i love fireworks too.

 

Every year used to buy fireworks for the festival of lights.

had a different thought in my mind after bursting a ton load of night shells(we cant buy more than 4" shell in my country for public use), to make fireworks on my own.

 

i have started this project at starting of December and finally made the BP (75 KnO3, 15 C, 10 S) on Yesterday and it was great.

 

In India it is difficult to get ball mill, even though u can get rock tumbler for about $100.

so made a ball mill, using scavenged motor form scrap yard, plywood base, shaft from a machinery and couple of other items.

 

its a simple ball mill constructed using Fasteners, wood nail, some wood glue and some epoxy glue.

 

its a fair amount of price compared to purchased one. price as below.

 

1. Motor - $4
2. pair of bearing to hold shaft - $2
3. pair of Wheels - $3
4. Base wood - Plywood - scavenged from furniture
5. drive Pulley - $0.50
6. glue & fasteners - $15 (made wrong model and had to assemble again so lot of waste)
7. Speed controller AC - $5 (which is useless, as it varies only voltage)

 

with some good time i have made ball mill around ($40). now comes the Mill container made with PVC pipes only. bought 4" PVC pipe a feet long with two Dummy to cover opens. sealed one end using PVC glue and other end open to load and unload. given some steps inside the PVC pipe for tumble motion.

 

Grinding media used - alumina balls (got supplier online, hard to get brass & lead Shots)

 

Bought chemicals from lab supply store (Sulphur, Boric acid, acetone, IPA, dextrin, Sr(NO3)2, Ba(NO3)2) which costs a lot because of the lab grade chemical.

got KnO3 from my fertilizer supply.

 

made charcoal on my own, grinded and ball milled to get fine charcoal and Air-float charcoal.

 

Made BP and made lift charge crispy's

 

Tested both and had Good result.

 

adding to that forgot to mention all safety precautions.

 

made a concreate enclosure with added sand bag on side to trap projectile from Ball mill if something gone wrong.

Having a respirator, hard gloves and soft one while making cut stars and well grounded work station to avoid static spark.

 

Yet to Buy: Kraft paper to make the shells and other stuffs and chemicals from wholesaler.

 

 

i will keep everyone posted on next step.

 

Thanks a lot. appreciate your comments on safety and formula's.

 

will post the DIY Ball mill pictures shortly.

 

Rgds...

Pyro Lover .

 

[TamilPyro]

Hi fellow countrymen, It's great to see your progress with limited supplies and restriction, I have been reading this forum for about a month now after being bitten by the pyro hobby. I made my first bp few days ago, not so great had lots of residue, I am eager to see your ball mill setup and learn from it.

[SharkWhisperer]

Hello Pyro Lovers -

 

I would say i love fireworks too.

 

Every year used to buy fireworks for the festival of lights.

had a different thought in my mind after bursting a ton load of night shells(we cant buy more than 4" shell in my country for public use), to make fireworks on my own.

 

i have started this project at starting of December and finally made the BP (75 KnO3, 15 C, 10 S) on Yesterday and it was great.

 

In India it is difficult to get ball mill, even though u can get rock tumbler for about $100.

so made a ball mill, using scavenged motor form scrap yard, plywood base, shaft from a machinery and couple of other items.

 

its a simple ball mill constructed using Fasteners, wood nail, some wood glue and some epoxy glue.

 

its a fair amount of price compared to purchased one. price as below.

 

1. Motor - $4
2. pair of bearing to hold shaft - $2
3. pair of Wheels - $3
4. Base wood - Plywood - scavenged from furniture
5. drive Pulley - $0.50
6. glue & fasteners - $15 (made wrong model and had to assemble again so lot of waste)
7. Speed controller AC - $5 (which is useless, as it varies only voltage)

 

with some good time i have made ball mill around ($40). now comes the Mill container made with PVC pipes only. bought 4" PVC pipe a feet long with two Dummy to cover opens. sealed one end using PVC glue and other end open to load and unload. given some steps inside the PVC pipe for tumble motion.

 

Grinding media used - alumina balls (got supplier online, hard to get brass & lead Shots)

 

Bought chemicals from lab supply store (Sulphur, Boric acid, acetone, IPA, dextrin, Sr(NO3)2, Ba(NO3)2) which costs a lot because of the lab grade chemical.

got KnO3 from my fertilizer supply.

 

made charcoal on my own, grinded and ball milled to get fine charcoal and Air-float charcoal.

 

Made BP and made lift charge crispy's

 

Tested both and had Good result.

 

adding to that forgot to mention all safety precautions.

 

made a concreate enclosure with added sand bag on side to trap projectile from Ball mill if something gone wrong.

Having a respirator, hard gloves and soft one while making cut stars and well grounded work station to avoid static spark.

 

Yet to Buy: Kraft paper to make the shells and other stuffs and chemicals from wholesaler.

 

 

i will keep everyone posted on next step.

 

Thanks a lot. appreciate your comments on safety and formula's.

 

will post the DIY Ball mill pictures shortly.

 

Rgds...

Pyro Lover .

 

Nice work, Deepak. Appreciate your ingenuity.

 

How are you regulating rotation speed?

 

Post pix when you can.

[deepakpyro]

Nice work, Deepak. Appreciate your ingenuity.

 

How are you regulating rotation speed?

 

Post pix when you can.

 

my motor speed is approx. 350 RPM. so, i have connected the motor and shaft using V-belt. it will be direct belt drive.

i have to tried to reduce speed via AC motor speed controller, it failed.(it varies only voltage and not doing good with the load).

 

after some time i figured my circumference of ball mill jar and shaft is in the ratio of 5:1, so made direct contact of jar with entire length of shaft resulted in approx. ~ 60 to 70 RPM. which is decent speed for ball with grinding media dia of 15mm.

 

<P.S> i have made jars using PVC water pipes so not worrying about its life due to wear and tear. which is easy and cheap to replace

[deepakpyro]

Hi fellow countrymen, It's great to see your progress with limited supplies and restriction, I have been reading this forum for about a month now after being bitten by the pyro hobby. I made my first bp few days ago, not so great had lots of residue, I am eager to see your ball mill setup and learn from it.

to achieve better quality BP, you will good quality of charcoal and good milling of composition in which ball mill is best.

[deepakpyro]

 

in this picture it is initial stages, i have modified the shaft contact, fan for motor, enclosure for motor and enclosure for wiring.

[sora]

I guess you can buy solid brass rods and then cut them into pieces ( in case you don't have cutting tools, take to a local lathe workshop) and use them as milling media .

[deepakpyro]

I guess you can buy solid brass rods and then cut them into pieces ( in case you don't have cutting tools, take to a local lathe workshop) and use them as milling media .

it's a great idea. sure i will try it out.

[dlking59]

Like the idea of using wheels for the shaft. I never thought of that.

[TamilPyro]

 

 

 

in this picture it is initial stages, i have modified the shaft contact, fan for motor, enclosure for motor and enclosure for wiring.

Thanks for showing the initial setup, I have a unused table fan's motor along with its speed controls..will the same setup work for me? Can you show us the current setup with the motor housing and cooling setup? The reason I am asking is since the motor is not a servo or tefc motor I want to be sure the motor/electric components doesn't interfere with the energetic compounds while milling.

[deepakpyro]

Thanks for showing the initial setup, I have a unused table fan's motor along with its speed controls..will the same setup work for me? Can you show us the current setup with the motor housing and cooling setup? The reason I am asking is since the motor is not a servo or tefc motor I want to be sure the motor/electric components doesn't interfere with the energetic compounds while milling.

in this case, fan motor will not have enough torque to mill more chemicals or bp.

I used normal grinder motor which i used direct connect with shaft.. if u feel the speed is high use speed reduction gear setup which u will need little lathe work.

[deepakpyro]

Made my first 3" inch spherical shell with bright white star.. star's burned very fast any suggestions to slow down the burning

[deepakpyro]

Any suggestions on the shell ? Plus/minus everything is welcome

[SeaMonkey]

I thought the stars in your burst had a very nice effect.

 

What was the size the the white stars and the type of composition?

[SharkWhisperer]

Any suggestions on the shell ? Plus/minus everything is welcome

First shell? Niiiiice!!! Congratulations.

 

I agree that your stars burned a little quickly, but your burst, altitude, and symmetry were very good for a first shell !

 

Per SM, what's your comp? What size are your stars? Most comps can be slowed a bit with a little tweaking, or you can just increase star size (decrease number, though) for a longer burn.

[deepakpyro]

My stars are rolled stars with size around 9 to 10 mm. the size of the shell is 3 inches and my star size is little big for the shell size.

my composition is

 

51% Potassium Nitrate

24% Magnalium, the finer the better, I use 325-250mesh

6% Charcoal

15% Sulfur

4% Dextrin

 

can i increase the charcoal so that it will reduce the burn rate ?.

[dlking59]

Stars burned a little quick but I thought the burst was really nice. Overall looked good.

[SharkWhisperer]

My stars are rolled stars with size around 9 to 10 mm. the size of the shell is 3 inches and my star size is little big for the shell size.

my composition is

 

51% Potassium Nitrate

24% Magnalium, the finer the better, I use 325-250mesh

6% Charcoal

15% Sulfur

4% Dextrin

 

can i increase the charcoal so that it will reduce the burn rate ?.

I'd try that. Maybe start reducing your 24:6 MgAl:Charcoal ratio to 22:8 or even 20:10 and see where that gets you. You'll find the balance that you like best. Go too far and you're back into metal-enhanced charcoal star territory instead of charcoal-assisted metallic star territory. Yes, those are rather large stars for a 3" shell. Probably burning quickly because of the fineness of your MgAl, finer isn't always "better". A nice bright burn though. Try to get some -200 MgAl or so, if possible, and repeat the original formula.

[deepakpyro]

I'd try that. Maybe start reducing your 24:6 MgAl:Charcoal ratio to 22:8 or even 20:10 and see where that gets you. You'll find the balance that you like best. Go too far and you're back into metal-enhanced charcoal star territory instead of charcoal-assisted metallic star territory. Yes, those are rather large stars for a 3" shell. Probably burning quickly because of the fineness of your MgAl, finer isn't always "better". A nice bright burn though. Try to get some -200 MgAl or so, if possible, and repeat the original formula.

Hi SW, thanks for the clarity. So in my place, i got the MgAl in fine powder quality and Vendor not sure about mesh size. but my feel is about 200+ mesh. i dont think so i will get course MgAl powder. but i will try altering the composition on charcoal and MgAl. keep you posted on next test batch run.

[SharkWhisperer]

Hi SW, thanks for the clarity. So in my place, i got the MgAl in fine powder quality and Vendor not sure about mesh size. but my feel is about 200+ mesh. i dont think so i will get course MgAl powder. but i will try altering the composition on charcoal and MgAl. keep you posted on next test batch run.

I see. If too course, you might have a different problem of getting them ignited, but hopefully not. It's pretty difficult to screen-sort much beyond 200 mesh with our usual pyro screens (my fine stuff takes it's sweet time just getting through a 100-mesh screen (I rarely use that screen for anything, though, except for separating mixed-mesh "dust" from >100 mesh. Depending on the vendor methods, the stated range might not be completely accurate, or might be skewed towards on end of the fineness range versus the other. Only way to really define it is to measure size distribution under a microscope, and most folks aren't going to bother doing that.

 

Most of my MgAl stars (and crackle) are made from FWC's -200 and often his -60 (which has a lot of fines, too, and works great). Even courser mesh, like 20-50 mesh MgAl works for stars, but gives a very different effect from fine MgAl.

 

But that's in the US, so I'm not sure what your MgAl vendor options are in India. I disagree with the originator's opinion that "the finer the better". I have milled MgAl (probably around 400-500 mesh) that simply burns too fast for using as the sole metal in stars, especially at 20-25% of formulation--that superfine MgAl makes great FP, though...

 

If your MgAl/Charcoal ration mods don't work and you start getting an orange burn envelope from adding more and more charcoal, then you you'll know you probably need courser MgAl to solve your issue.

 

You'll sort it out.

Edited February 1, 2021 by SharkWhisperer

[Carbon796]

My stars are rolled stars with size around 9 to 10 mm. the size of the shell is 3 inches and my star size is little big for the shell size.

my composition is

 

51% Potassium Nitrate

24% Magnalium, the finer the better, I use 325-250mesh

6% Charcoal

15% Sulfur

4% Dextrin

 

can i increase the charcoal so that it will reduce the burn rate ?.

 

Add a heat sink to slow it down.

[deepakpyro]

I see. If too course, you might have a different problem of getting them ignited, but hopefully not. It's pretty difficult to screen-sort much beyond 200 mesh with our usual pyro screens (my fine stuff takes it's sweet time just getting through a 100-mesh screen (I rarely use that screen for anything, though, except for separating mixed-mesh "dust" from >100 mesh. Depending on the vendor methods, the stated range might not be completely accurate, or might be skewed towards on end of the fineness range versus the other. Only way to really define it is to measure size distribution under a microscope, and most folks aren't going to bother doing that.

 

Most of my MgAl stars (and crackle) are made from FWC's -200 and often his -60 (which has a lot of fines, too, and works great). Even courser mesh, like 20-50 mesh MgAl works for stars, but gives a very different effect from fine MgAl.

 

 

Agree with you @Sharkwhisperer. Fine isn't always better. i am currently searching for vendor around country to supply the metal powder that pyro grade (Size & particle) grade. but only problem is that, they use to supply in bulk 25/50 kgs Tin packaging(which is way too much for hobby). i got another batch of 2 lbs magnalium lying with me. I will check that for particle size. i will try to alter the ratio of metal and fuel to achieve the better burn rate.

it is also difficult to get vendor who is supplying the Mesh screens of various sizes(even though read some posts saying screens available in out of country is made in India, Pakistan) i have made my own mesh screen with commercially available meshes which used for other purposes into screens. I have made 300 mesh screen using the screen printing linen but sure it will not last long (LOL).

 

keep you guys posted.

[deepakpyro]

Add a heat sink to slow it down.

Heat sink ?.. i have seen in some topic binder can used as heat sink.. what do u suggest?

[Carbon796]

A carbonate, barium preferred or a barium blended, with strontium or magnesium. Something like 7:3 or 8:2. An additional 10% should make a noticeable difference.

 

Adding additional binder isn't really a heat sink. It just slows the comp down by over fueling it, with a weak fuel. Carbonates have no fuel value.

[deepakpyro]

A carbonate, barium preferred or a barium blended, with strontium or magnesium. Something like 7:3 or 8:2. An additional 10% should make a noticeable difference.

 

Adding additional binder isn't really a heat sink. It just slows the comp down by over fueling it, with a weak fuel. Carbonates have no fuel value.

Currently not having in my stock, having pure sodium bicarbonate only.. but getting a batch barium/strontium carbonate in a week.. will try Edited February 2, 2021 by deepakpyro