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How to properly use desiccant?


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Posted

I keep my BP in a sealed container, but I was thinking about using a desiccant just to make sure things are dry as a bone. At the moment I use anhydrous copper sulphate in an open ziploc bag in the same container but without actually mixing with the BP. Would this actually help at all? I don't see any reason why moisture would necessarily hydrate the copper sulphate rather than absorb in the BP aswell.

Thanks

Posted
Crazy, Im having serious clumping issues inside my mill jar. I loose over 8 percent of what I mill and have to wash the jar out and start over after trying to dry it as best I can. I will definitely be reading this. Good luck, Im sorry I cant be of help.
Posted (edited)

I keep my BP in a sealed container, but I was thinking about using a desiccant just to make sure things are dry as a bone. At the moment I use anhydrous copper sulphate in an open ziploc bag in the same container but without actually mixing with the BP. Would this actually help at all? I don't see any reason why moisture would necessarily hydrate the copper sulphate rather than absorb in the BP aswell.

Thanks

Because copper sulfate (if cooked to anhydrous) has a much greater affinity for water than charcoal, your primary hygroscopic component in BP, so water is selectively drawn to it. If your copper sulfate is blue, it is already water-bound and will work like shit as a dessicant. I use widely available silica dessicant packets (many sizes to choose from--they look like small pillows made of teabag material) that contain color-changing beads. When indicator beads go from orange to green, they're full of water and go into the oven for a half hour to be recycled--good as new and will last essentially forever. Be sure to blow off any BP that may have attached to packet so it doesn't burn in oven, though unlikely. Reasonably priced. Other dessicant's available. All my hygroscopic chems get dessicant--charcoal for sure (the stuff in use, post-oven drying), same with milled KNO3 and coffee-grinder ground strontium nitrate crystals. No clumping problems. Ever. Simples.

Edited by SharkWhisperer
Posted

Ah that makes sense, thanks. Another question, does desiccant actively draw moisture out of already moist charcoal? Others in the household aren't keen on baking charcoal in the same oven they make food in.

Posted

Charcoal can absorb up to 20% of it's weight in water. Apart from throwing your comp ratios waaay off, there's your clumping issues. It would take a lot of passive dessication to get charcoal bone-dry like you want it. Possible? Maybe. Never bothered trying. No reason to. There is essentially zero hazard of cooking powdered or chunk charcoal in the oven inside. It already has the majority of volatiles burned off, will not release toxic gasses, and won't start on fire at oven temps. It's the same charcoal you set on fire and cook steaks and burger over, directly over, ffs... Your housemates must not enjoy a good grill session, then, tsk tsk. It's harmless. The stuff doesn't ignite and it doesn't magically blow around in a dust cloud and contaminate everything. Sheesh, buy a cheap used toaster oven just for drying comps if that's the concern. Really though, there is no concern.

Posted

Believe me I tried to tell them, there's just no convincing some people. Better to just fork out for the toaster oven I guess...

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I also use dessicant packs in all my chemical storage containers. It is very humid where I live and difficult for me to keep things dry and get them dry. After a batch or stars or bp is as dry as it will get in the open air I will seal it up in an air tight container with dessicant and in a week it is noticably drier. You can get some kinds of kitty litter that are silica gel based dry it in the oven and make your own drying bags with coffee filters. Since I started doing this with everything my moisture problems are almost non existant.

Posted

Charcoal absorbs moisture, this will cause clumping in a mill and cause the mixture to be off due to weighing water. Lot's of things coming by sea have silica gel packs inside, or you can buy them. Silica gel can be dries and reused Keep the charcoal dry and mixing and milling is much easier.

 

Ebay has whole pages of reusable silica gel packs -some indicating, in sizes from 1 gram to 1 pound. No doubt other vendors exist.

Posted

Hey everyone just a friendly reminder to exercise caution. Although charcoal does have a high ignition temperature, if it does ignite it will burn very hot. Keep in mind airfloat charcoal is much easier to ignite than charcoal briquettes. Also drying lbs of charcoal inside is bound to create dust around the house, wich some would argue could create health hazards. Almost everything pyro has hazards, including drying fuels. Its about mitigating hazards and preparing for the worst case scenario. I always dry my charcoal because of its clumping issues in ball milling. I generally use a crock pot because it is easy and convenient! It can also be easily used outside. And I use desiccant to keep them dry. If you house isn't keen to you drying charcoal in the oven, a crock pot from the goodwill is a cheap alternative!

If you do not have desiccants you charcoal will stay drying for a little while, depending on the container and the humidity.

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