KAP Posted May 6, 2007 Posted May 6, 2007 Help,I may have strong hands but this is the first time I have used a profesionally made set of rocket tooling and there is no way I can get this 10'' tube off the spindle. Was I supposed to use some sort of lube on the spindle? I have made rockets before but they were home made tooling on a lathe and the spindle was not quite as long. Thanks for you knowledge . Kirk
Pretty green flame Posted May 6, 2007 Posted May 6, 2007 Have you tried removing it with a twisting motion, i.e. not just pulling. Pull and twist at the same time. Also Clamp the base in a vise so you have both hands free. If this doesn't work you will probably have to cut it open as holx said. Next time before ramming you might want to lubricate the spindle with a bit of graphite.
Mumbles Posted May 6, 2007 Posted May 6, 2007 I've always used rubber strap wrenches to get them off. What you're experiencing is normal. Clamp the base in a vice or something similar, and apply the strap wrench and twist it off. I generally clamp near the bottom by the nozzle as to have less of a chance to do something weird and bend the spindle. http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepair/images/strapwrench.jpg
KAP Posted May 6, 2007 Author Posted May 6, 2007 I cruched the casing lightly with pliers and the BP fell out it is off and the spindle is fine. I cant imagine how these engines could be removed when pressed rather than rammed? I will wait to build another one until I get good ideas on spindle prep for forming. I am a contracror and several blows with a dead blow mallet may be to much from my arm maybe I have to lighten up a bit. Kirk
Pretty green flame Posted May 6, 2007 Posted May 6, 2007 I cruched the casing lightly with pliers and the BP fell out it is off and the spindle is fine. I cant imagine how these engines could be removed when pressed rather than rammed? I will wait to build another one until I get good ideas on spindle prep for forming. I am a contracror and several blows with a dead blow mallet may be to much from my arm maybe I have to lighten up a bit. Kirk Instead of a few strong blows from a mallet use many lighter strikes. I heard that for example a 6lb rocket is better rammed with 20-30light blows than a couple strong ones. Cheers
KAP Posted May 6, 2007 Author Posted May 6, 2007 OK,Thanks I will go buy a strap wrench, and some graphite. I told my daughter last night there was going to be some nice rockets going off.This made me look bad. They were lookng forward to it. Kirk
KAP Posted May 6, 2007 Author Posted May 6, 2007 Also, What ever happened to the spherical titanium? I know it was hard on the tooling but it shure made a beautiful tail on the stinger missles I used to make. Kirk
cplmac Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 I usually clamp my rocket sleeve in the bench vice, and use a pair of large channel locks to twist the base. Once the base spins relatively freely you can pull the base and spindle right out of there. Also, if you don't want to trash the motor, I have had success cutting the bottom of the motor tube off. Just at the start of the nozzle. If this is Wolters tooling, just take a utility knife measure up a heavy quarter of an inch, and cut the bottom of the tube off. This will free all but the core from the tooling, and that is usually the majority of the resistance to taking it off. This should still allow you to fire the motor as well.
KAP Posted May 7, 2007 Author Posted May 7, 2007 Yes it is Wolters BP rocket set, and thank you for this advice,it makes alot of sense, I did get my casing off today and did a test fire,I added a little Ti for show. I am preserving my spherical Ti for those special events. Firefoxes tubes look ok but the New England paper tube given as a sample with the rocket kit is much denser I bet the chance of a blow out are less without reinforcment. Thanks, to you all, you have been a great help and I have a fan club that keeps me on my heels ,my two daughters and the wife.
qwezxc12 Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 FWIW, I found that if I spin the spindle after pressing the nozzle, prior to pressing the BP, I can get the tooling (3lb. stinger) out of the rocket far easier. Don't know if I'm explaining this very well, but I just twist the spindle a half turn to break the bind of the clay nozzle with the spindle before pressing the propellant. If I do this, I don't even need a strap wrench to remove the spindle when I'm done. Nozzle material is straight kitty litter +3% mineral oil blended until fine powder.
cplmac Posted May 8, 2007 Posted May 8, 2007 That is a GREAT idea Q. I'm going to try that on my next flyer. Makes perfect sense. I get my tooling stuck but good nearly every time, even with whistle fuel.
deadman Posted May 8, 2007 Posted May 8, 2007 qwezxc12: I had to try it on my 4oz BP set just to see, and it does make a huge difference. I destroyed my first rocket with this set because I couldn't get it off. I was waiting until I bought some graphite powder to worry about dealing with rockets for a while. Excellent.
WonderBoy Posted May 8, 2007 Posted May 8, 2007 I usually give the motor a half turn every increment. It has always worked for me. The single twist after the nozzle sounds easier though, I will have to try that.
h&k machineguns Posted May 12, 2007 Posted May 12, 2007 It's an easy fix,I am suprised know one here has mentioned. Makes it super easy. Take support clamps off the motor after the last pressed incriment..... Take the last rammer that you used to ,and stick it back inside the top of the motor( Make sure you leave a minumum of 3/4 inch of empty motor). Now stick the base of the spindle tight in a vise,and tighten.... Take a set of vise grips,and grip real hard around the top of the motor. You will NOT cruch the motro,because you have the last rammer inside it. You will leave littly teeth marks on the paper tubing,but it's not a big deal. Twist the pliers back and forth a few times,until it free's up. You won't need any lube ,or graphite,or any prep work.
KAP Posted May 12, 2007 Author Posted May 12, 2007 there you go? I used the strap whench method mumbles recomended and had no problems removig the motor once it broke loose. This one sounds like a good one for the mega rammed or pressed motors. or all for that matter. The site where I purchased the motor kit did not even have a helpful hint other than using graphite to help it side off.Stinger missles were never a problem for removal because oth the short stubby spindle. KP
al93535 Posted May 12, 2007 Posted May 12, 2007 Instead of graphite you guys might be interested to try a PTFE based spray dry lubricant. I use it on my spindles and it makes it alot easier to remove the rocket. I use "The dry lube" made with PTFE sold at lowes for about 6$ a can.
KAP Posted May 12, 2007 Author Posted May 12, 2007 Ok, Thanks , I will give that a shot, Graphite and the strapwrench work but I still have to use quite a lot of force to get it removed. With shoulder problems any advice is helpful. Thanks again, KP
invisibleworld Posted August 27, 2007 Posted August 27, 2007 You got great ideas, I found dipping a small brush in talk or graphite and spreading it on the spindle prior to pressing or ramming and giving it a slight twist after the nossle and every few increments helps a lot. If it is still tight I like to grip it near the base with a strap wrench or taped vise grips and clamp the base in a vise and break it loose then twist the rest of the way by hand in the same direction while pulling off. Good luck
Recommended Posts