protection is a must !

[Iceland]

I was wondering what you people are using or recommending. I used to always work with with p3 masks which:

Filters at least 99.95% of airborne particles

they cost about 8 dollar a piece.

 

but I have found it is not enough, I would recommend a full face mask because the fine aluminium and other chemicals act as little razor blades in your body they can't be stopped, also your eyes are absorbers..

 

https://www.amazon.com/Esska-Dräger-X-Plore-5500-Full/dp/B002MFGE92/ref=sr_1_7?qid=1578063610&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2796128011&s=hi&sr=1-7

[Piccaso]

I just use a respirator labeled for n95. I see no reason to go further than that for particulate issues. The reusable painting respirators work well also. Your eyes natural watering will wash away any dust unless a large amoutn gets blown in them. The stuff just floating in the air shouldn't be a issue unless you just not being careful as to how much introducing to it. Just spooning some from vessel to vessel shouldn't be a issue in my opinion. It is your body though and you are the one responsible for it so if this gives you peace of mind then it may be worth it to you.

Edited January 5, 2020 by Piccaso

[DavidSvennigsen]

Thanks for recommending this mask. I was finding some good masks. I'll try it.

[PyroCat]

New member but I've been reading here for years. What other PPE is recommended when emptying the ball mill of BP, and working with larger amounts of dry BP? I have been doing this hobby for a couple years but stopped a year ago due to safety concerns with my setup after hearing about a few accidents involving ball mills here. Now I want to get back into it safely but I am concerned about the safety of making black powder. Thanks for any help in advance. Mods- If this is not the appropriate place for this question then please move/remove this post. Thank you.

[Carbon796]

What is recommended and what is actually practiced can be two very distinct different practices. Based on individual comfort levels, and environmental awareness.

 

There have been the occasional BP/ballmill accidents. Most in hindsight, involved non standard mills and or non standard media. Don't try to skimp or get by when building a ballmill. Only use a tefc motor, only use hardened lead media.

 

Wear some eye protection, glasses or a full face shield. Which ever you choose, they should be adjusted or modified to fit well, and not be easily dislodged. Otherwise they will not protect you.

 

A really good dust mask or a respirator.

 

A long sleeve heavy weight cotton shirt, buttoned up fully. Preferably over a lighter, also cotton shirt. Don't wear any synthetic ( flamable/meltable ) based clothing/footwear.

 

Wear some gloves, heavy weight cotton, or leather.

 

If static electrical shock is an issue, be aware of it. Make sure you've grounded yourself, immediately before you handle your ballmill. Also a light misting of yourself and ballmill with an antistatic spray is farther protection.

 

Thats kinda a recommended minimum, I've seen some people wear much less, and others much more, to include. Full FD turnout gear, nomex undergarments, and full face motorcycle helmets.

[PyroCat]

Thank you for the helpful information for someone who is new to the hobby. What is the safest container to use for a ball mill? I was thinking a plastic container would have a potential static electricity risk for BP but not sure what else to use. I used the Thumblers tumbler before, but based on the design it seems dangerous, as it doesn't have a grounded plug and has metal threading for the 6 wing nuts to open it which could strip over time and get into the final BP. What's the safest container to cook charcoal in? I made it in steel paint cans before, but they would flake bits of steel into the charcoal when they heated up. Also seems very dangerous to have that potentially contaminating the BP. Sorry for derailing the thread but i'm still new to this forum so not sure where to ask this. Mods please move or delete if necessary. Thanks again

Edited August 7, 2020 by PyroCat

[Carbon796]

The thumblers/rebel 5qt rubber lined drums are the best in my opinion. They don't seem to clump as much, and are vastly quieter than pvc jars. I believe some people have changed out the studs in them to SS. Mostly due to corrosion in humid environments. I've personally had no issues with the stock ones. The stock thumbles tumbler is under powered and slow for an efficient mill, but can work with longer mill times. Most serious hobbyist will end up building a custom mill or buy one.

 

The paint cans are usually galvanized. You usually have to " burn them out " first, and clean them. Thats the galvanizing thats flaking off.

[BetICouldMake1]

If the studs on the barrel bug you you can easily cover them with caplugs. But I don't see lead breaking off chunks of steel.

 

I won't comment on PPE because I'm the guy dumping my barrel in shorts and a t shirt (not recommended). Just stay away from sources of sparks. And wear a mask.

[PyroCat]

Thanks for the helpful safety recommendations for a noob like me.

[Mumbles]

Some will run a magnet through their charcoal or run it through a chute with magnets to get anything ferrous. When cooking from wood of somewhat unknown sources there can be staples, nail, etc. in them. This may give you a little more piece of mind.

 

I've been through a BP accident. Any amount of skin coverage goes a long way. I'd recommend at least long cotton sleeves and pants. When emptying, some sort of breathing protection is also suggested as it can be pretty dusty. As Carbon765 alluded to, the best PPE is what you'll actually use.

[PyroCat]

Some will run a magnet through their charcoal or run it through a chute with magnets to get anything ferrous. When cooking from wood of somewhat unknown sources there can be staples, nail, etc. in them. This may give you a little more piece of mind.

 

I've been through a BP accident. Any amount of skin coverage goes a long way. I'd recommend at least long cotton sleeves and pants. When emptying, some sort of breathing protection is also suggested as it can be pretty dusty. As Carbon765 alluded to, the best PPE is what you'll actually use.

That's a great idea to use a magnet. I will do that to remove anything that comes off of the cooker because I will be using pure paulownia wood from my property so i'm not worried about contamination from the wood. I will wear long sleeve cotton shirt and pants with leather or cotton gloves. Then I will wear a thick cotton hoodie over that and also use a face shield. Do you know what caused the BP to ignite in your accident? When I saw what happened to you, dagabu, and burrito it made me stop pyro for awhile because I realized that BP is more sensitive than I thought. I should have read more on here but luckily nothing happened to me, but if it did, it would have been very bad the way I was doing it. Thank you for sharing your scary accidents on here because it probably saved me from the same injury or worse.

Edited August 10, 2020 by PyroCat

[zoey]

I wonder if using the oven at home is safe at all. I have a nephew who has taken to this hobby. He basically got interested after a chemistry class where fireworks were discussed. I worry that he might blow up my sister's kitchen or hurt himself. Sometimes the journey from a simple college textbook like Chemistry:Principles and Practice to taking on a hobby which involves chemicals in their many avatars is worrisome. I think he needs to spend time on a forum like this, before he starts using the kitchen oven.

[PyroCat]

 

I wonder if using the oven at home is safe at all. I have a nephew who has taken to this hobby. He basically got interested after a chemistry class where fireworks were discussed. I worry that he might blow up my sister's kitchen or hurt himself. Sometimes the journey from a simple college textbook like Chemistry:Principles and Practice to taking on a hobby which involves chemicals in their many avatars is worrisome. I think he needs to spend time on a forum like this, before he starts using the kitchen oven.

 

What is he even using the oven for with pyro anyway? Drying any pryo compositions in the oven is a recipe for disaster, injury, death, fire, and legal issues. He needs to really study up on all safety precautions for whatever chemicals/compositions he is using. You should refer him to the forum to study before even thinking about starting the hobby. You should also suggest that he join a local pyrotechnics club to learn how to do this hobby as safely as possible. However even the most experienced pyros have accidents sometimes so there is always some risk, although most can be mitigated by following proper safety precautions.

Edited August 25, 2020 by PyroCat

[BetICouldMake1]

Oven drying individual chemicals isn't unusual, but never a finished comp or device. That said, I still prefer using a toaster oven out in the yard for drying hygroscopic chems.

[Carbon796]

Some pyro's will use drying boxes, to speed up, or ensure an item/component is fully dry. Those are essentially purpose built ovens. If your cross linking phenolic bound comps, they essentially get cured in some kind of "oven" also.

 

But, no one should be using their cooking oven, inside their home, for such purposes.

[Smokelvr]

Some pyro's will use drying boxes, to speed up, or ensure an item/component is fully dry. Those are essentially purpose built ovens. If your cross linking phenolic bound comps, they essentially get cured in some kind of "oven" also.

 

But, no one should be using their cooking oven, inside their home, for such purposes.

There's a difference between a drying box, which designed to 'dry' the air, then circulate it, warming the air is one way to decrease humidity

and an oven, which if you bake, you understand the difficulty in regulating temperatures, esp. LOW (relative to baking) temps

 

(wonder if a dehumidifier piped into a box... probably an overkill, would you'd run the risk of ruining due to corrosion if you didn't have good filters to keep fines from reaching it)

 

NOW... would you like to talk about a 'loosely assembled' drying box, made of things like plywood or foam/foam core boards, which, in the worse case 'violently disassemble' (by blowing the 'set on' top, or a plug in side) in a manner which doesn't generate dangerous flying debris...

 

and a metal and glass oven...

Edited December 16, 2020 by Smokelvr