jaysgoh Posted February 23, 2018 Posted February 23, 2018 (edited) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lD9cGsTzek0 Good day everyone, I've attached a video regarding 3 inch shell that i made previously. Shell Info : Burst : 2FA, 1.2inch Cannule Time Fuse : Spolette 3.0sec Shell Weight : 310gram Flash/Booster : NONE, no access. Star Effect : D1 Glitter + Charcoal Streamer ( CUT ) Lift Charge : 2FA, 30gram Spiking Pattern : Normal, with additional loops Kraft Paper : 90-120lbs Shell Casing : 67mm, paste until it fit the mortar As you can see in the video, the lift for me is great, but is my shell fire a little bit to high? Or it looks small because of weak bp break, less symmetrical? Does spiking pattern matter to a better symmetrical burst? i've seen people using cut star can perform as symmetrical as ball shell, so i believe cut star are not really a problem for a better symmetrical burst. Please do judge on the video, appreciate much for the time to read these. Thank you in advance. Edited February 23, 2018 by gohjiejing
MadMat Posted February 23, 2018 Posted February 23, 2018 There are a few things that come to mind. How are you priming your stars. I say this because if all the stars do not light, it will ruin symmetry of the effect. Also what size are your stars? If your stars are too large for the size of the shell, it will lessen the effect simply because there aren't enough of them to fill the burst field. Just a couple thoughts.
memo Posted February 23, 2018 Posted February 23, 2018 Did you stack the stars or bulk fill, how many turns of of what paper did you use on the case and pasting. Standards spiking should do the trick. Lift was great , burst looked pretty good also. All in all that was a good shell
MadMat Posted February 23, 2018 Posted February 23, 2018 (edited) After taking a second look at your video, I will have to second what Memo said, it was a decent shell. After all, it was a 3". You aren't going to get the huge effect of a 6+ " shell if that's what you are expecting. Edited February 23, 2018 by MadMat
rogeryermaw Posted February 23, 2018 Posted February 23, 2018 i've seen worse...i've made worse! depends on the break pattern you are looking for. cylinders and balls can break very differently. also on shells this small, a lot of people use burst enhancement of one kind or another. there are more than just flash boosters you can look into. i may not be the best adviser on this but if you want a nice peony in a 3" shell, balls are easier...just my opinion. of course i am still just getting into cylinder shells. all in all, it wasn't too bad. and the glitter worked pretty well. keep at it...you're not that far off.
jaysgoh Posted February 25, 2018 Author Posted February 25, 2018 There are a few things that come to mind. How are you priming your stars. I say this because if all the stars do not light, it will ruin symmetry of the effect. Also what size are your stars? If your stars are too large for the size of the shell, it will lessen the effect simply because there aren't enough of them to fill the burst field. Just a couple thoughts.Sorry for the late reply, few celebration going on. I did not prime them, as i assume they are 'BP Base' star should be easy to light. Charcoal Streamer Star are quite easy to light on hand with soft flame. D1 Glitter took some time. I am using Cut Star, gonna make a star frame or a pump star if i had the time. My cut star usually don't have a standard size. They're cut by ruler in a circular paste shape, some star are smaller than each other when comes to the corner of the circular paste. Is Pump star great for Cylinder Shell? I only know they are good for stacking on the side of the shell. Thank you.
jaysgoh Posted February 25, 2018 Author Posted February 25, 2018 Did you stack the stars or bulk fill, how many turns of of what paper did you use on the case and pasting. Standards spiking should do the trick. Lift was great , burst looked pretty good also. All in all that was a good shell I don't stack them due to its a cut star, mostly in square shape, in other way, it's a bulk fill until it reach a height of the casing. I couldn't remember how many turns. For casing, i roll them on a 6.5cm cylinder former, probably a height of a kraft paper where i bought em by per piece. ( I cut along the line ).For Pasting, i use the same kraft paper, also, by the height of the kraft paper that i bought, layer by layer of kraft paper that i soak in glue. As long as it fit in the mortar snugly then I will stop pasting them. I don't really able to look for cotton twine that suitable for Black match and spiking shell, perhaps is either i bought it too thin ( for BM ) or i bought it too thick that people use it for 'spiking' their meat that going to be bake. I realize after i spike it real tight, when i press it into the casing, i don't feel its a rock solid, where it still quite compressible. Note, i did hit a few time to ensure all star and the gap are fill with meal powder/tiny granule bp , compress it hard before I glue the top cap for casing. Is my shell normal where it reach the highest point, it tend to bank left. Just wonder is my lift problem or my time fuse where my shell tend to explode after it reach the highest point. Thank you.
jaysgoh Posted February 25, 2018 Author Posted February 25, 2018 After taking a second look at your video, I will have to second what Memo said, it was a decent shell. After all, it was a 3". You aren't going to get the huge effect of a 6+ " shell if that's what you are expecting.Thank you, i will take that as compliment. Maybe my friends are comparing mine with commercial 3 inch shell where they explode hard and wide. That's really put me down. Aren't homemade ones are better and bigger, said my friends.
jaysgoh Posted February 25, 2018 Author Posted February 25, 2018 i've seen worse...i've made worse! depends on the break pattern you are looking for. cylinders and balls can break very differently. also on shells this small, a lot of people use burst enhancement of one kind or another. there are more than just flash boosters you can look into. i may not be the best adviser on this but if you want a nice peony in a 3" shell, balls are easier...just my opinion. of course i am still just getting into cylinder shells. all in all, it wasn't too bad. and the glitter worked pretty well. keep at it...you're not that far off.So according to what you said, as I can't access to FP/Booster. I tend to work hard on my BP to ensure they are the best quality i can get it from. Getting a peony on 3 inch shell without FP/Booster is always my dream. But i hope people can prove me wrong, it can be made without uses of booster. But still, i am quite proud of what i able to achieve for now. Living in a firework illegal country, i made everything from scratch. Non of the materials are bought off the shelve. Thank you.
jaysgoh Posted February 25, 2018 Author Posted February 25, 2018 Another shell from the stash. https://youtu.be/SCer2El27tY Shell Info :Burst : 2FA, 1.2inch Cannule Time Fuse : Spolette 3.0secShell Weight : 296 gramFlash/Booster : NONE, no access.Star Effect : D1 Glitter + Charcoal Streamer ( CUT )Lift Charge : 2FA, 30gramSpiking Pattern : Normal, with additional loops ( Thicker Cotton Twine )Kraft Paper : 90-120lbsShell Casing : 67mm, paste until it fit the mortar 1
kingkama Posted February 25, 2018 Posted February 25, 2018 This is a good shell, for me the problem is in the power of lift, too much, the shell breaks at his apogee it had not the time to start falling.
MadMat Posted February 28, 2018 Posted February 28, 2018 (edited) That was a nice shell. Getting that big peony look in a 3" shell is going to be very difficult without some type of boost to the burst charge. Edited February 28, 2018 by MadMat
jaysgoh Posted March 2, 2018 Author Posted March 2, 2018 Thank you for the advise, i will make sure by next year i will improve a lot.
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