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Posted
Ok, anyone know if I can up the power on this to burn levels? HeNe Laser

You need to read, grasshopper. Understand how HeNe lasers pump, and then figure it out yourself.

 

Sam's Laser FAQ - Helium Neon Lasers

Yes master... Please forgive my blind ambition.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hey, quick note-- Woudn't this work:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/100mW-Red-Laser-Diode-...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

Thats a 100mW Diode. You would need a collimating lens, but you can use something from a cheapo laser pointer, right? Just replace the 5mW diode.

 

Or:

http://cgi.ebay.com/808nm-150mW-laser-modu...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

That would work too, probably better. Just need a switch, and batteries. Lots cheaper than a 200+ one from even LucentOptics, eh?

 

I will probably get one, with help from my brother. Shoudn't have spent 40 bucks on a dvd drive, dangit! (got the diode out fine, and MAN is it bright, but its really only about 25mW.

 

 

And yeah, mostly for that problem with the breeze-- but also the though of lighting off flash unconfined without fuse, I personally am as much entertained with 1g of flash at 25 feet away as I am with 50 at 250 feet away.

 

 

 

 

PS: My GOSH! If you could swap this one out reliably...

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/1000mw-808nm-laser-dio...1QQcmdZViewItem

Posted
Hey, quick note-- Woudn't this work:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/100mW-Red-Laser-Diode-...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

Thats a 100mW Diode. You would need a collimating lens, but you can use something from a cheapo laser pointer, right? Just replace the 5mW diode.

 

Or:

http://cgi.ebay.com/808nm-150mW-laser-modu...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

That would work too, probably better. Just need a switch, and batteries. Lots cheaper than a 200+ one from even LucentOptics, eh?

 

I will probably get one, with help from my brother. Shoudn't have spent 40 bucks on a dvd drive, dangit! (got the diode out fine, and MAN is it bright, but its really only about 25mW.

 

 

And yeah, mostly for that problem with the breeze-- but also the though of lighting off flash unconfined without fuse, I personally am as much entertained with 1g of flash at 25 feet away as I am with 50 at 250 feet away.

 

 

 

 

PS: My GOSH! If you could swap this one out reliably...

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/1000mw-808nm-laser-dio...1QQcmdZViewItem

Yea, I saw those too, not sure about em. I just ordered an 80mW laser for $100 bucks with shipping with a rechargeable battery too so I'm excited. I also got a 100kW powersupply with potentiometer designed for tesla experiments, but will also work for my CO2 laser tube whenever I get that. I would love to put that whole setup on a tripod, load some flash solutes in clear bottles and set them out at differing distances and see how far out I can set them off with just the laser... :-)

Posted

Personally, I would get the laser 'module', the 150mW one. Granted, any end product will be ghetto in comparison to whatever your getting, but I don't mind personally :ph34r: :ph34r:

 

As long as it produces enough heat to light BP, fuse, and flash, I am happy. And paper would be nice too.

 

 

PS: Anyone here have a Fresnel lens? :lol: B) :lol:

I have a 395mm lens ATM, it melts plastic instantly, creates a jet of flame in 2x4's within 1/2 a second, and even Zinc (Post '87, IIRC) pennies... Powerful enough to cut them in half clean! :blink: :lol: Unfortunately, its a pain to position.

 

PSS: It roxorz with marshmallows, just be careful cause once they turn brown, they heat up 3x faster, and usually tend to not-so-spontaneously ignite really really fast. I got my Fresnel for 42 bucks total, a long time ago. (4 months?)

  • 11 months later...
Posted
For your origional question and for your question on gas burning lasers (like co2) there is a book that tells you how to make a handheld burning diode laser. Its going to cost between 100 and 300 bucks tho depending on what parts youve got. Books called Electronic Gadgets for the Evil Genius and its on pg 85. Also, this site is helpful for parts and plans- especially the gas burning ones. http://amazing1.com/laser-plans.htm .
  • 4 months later...
Posted
You can also check our store : (LINK REMOVED) , high power green laser pointers .

 

beamq,

 

This isn't the thread to promote your store.

 

Since it's your first post, AND a violation of the rules which you obviously haven't read, it's being deleted. You're back in the New Member Group as well, since you now have zero posts. If you follow the rules you'll be welcomed here, as would be anyone.

Posted

Old thread, but lasers ARE cool. I'm not up on diode laser theory, but the question I have is more simply physics-related. If you've got a handheld laser with a single AAA battery, no matter how much modding you do, you're still asking that dinky battery to supply energy that it is not capable of doing. Energy is energy, and to get a lot at the beam, requires a lot at the input of the device. I am guessing any serious mod to a handheld device would require extensive power supply mods, no?

 

I looked for a LONG time at 10 watt or so sealed CO2 laser tubes as the most practical high-powered laser for a home CNC gantry rig, to cut sheet balsa and other parts. Ultimately the complexity and cost caused me to drop the project. But it would definitely be interesting.

Posted

Swede, I'm not sure how much wattage people have been able to wring out of a small battery-powered laser, but I'm betting it's still in the milliwatt range. (I'm no expert, though, so I'll defer to anyone with more knowledge.)

 

And many years ago, a friend of mine inherited a 1 or 2-watt laser from the Lab of a company that went out of business. It was powered by a 110v supply and as large as a breadbox. Wouldn't cut much more than a single sheet of paper.

 

It was fun to play with for a while but in the end proved fairly worthless, because it had a defect on the back mirror which allowed the beam to escape in both directions after it heated up a bit. Nothing like a backwards-firing laser!

  • 11 months later...
Posted
Ok, I've got a new infatuation with lasers and being able to use it to melt things or ignite matches. So far as I understand any laser 200mW or higher will do this. I've done some reading and supposedly it is possible to convert various types of laser pointers to high power by simply removing resistors or simply finding the right laser. Much information is a little hard to come by, this is the best info I've found DVD Drive to High Power Laser I tried this but I must have damaged the laser whilst removing it. My question is can I get a cheap laser pointer and change it to high power (IE burning things quality) and how? My main goal really is to make one that can ignite fuse, thus eliminating the need for a lighter and no more breezy day hassles. Anyone help?

 

Hello! First post here.. I come from laserpointerforums.com

 

I have a bit of experience with what you are asking... Get used to your new infatuation because its actually a permanent addiction! The modifications you are asking about is generally referred to as pot modding. Its always a bad idea. Increasing the current to a Laser diode does increase it output, but does shorten its life span from about 10,000 hours, to about 5 min of use. You don't have to buy a DVD drive to take out the LD. You can go a cheaper route and buy the components that are already removed, and pressed into a focusing module for you! This is good news, because laser diode are extremely fragile components..

 

Now, a typical red laser pointer puts out about 5mw.. the laser that built from a 22X DVD burner drive puts out about 250mw of power. I use this laser to light fireworks every year, yes it can light matches and burn through electrical tape. Go to LPF and register, and PM me if you have many more questions.

 

Don't forget to do a search on laser driver circuits..

 

and go here to buy laser modules.. burning red or burning violet.

 

http://modwerx.com/shop/preinstalled-laser-diodes-c-9.html

 

Hope this helps a bit!

Posted

Cool, when I go to the tip tomorrow I'll try find an old PC or dvd (burner)..

 

Any reccomendations on minimum write X for a laser that will light BP etc.

Posted
Or one could just use a windproof gas lighter to conquer those breezy day hassles :rolleyes:

 

Or a good blowtorch. -_-

Posted
Or taco bell's volcano nachos :P
  • Like 1
Posted

If anyone complained of eyesight damage on a firing site where you were using a 250mW laser hand held, your insurers would instantly disclaim all liability as it's not a firework activity. The trouble with a high power laser is that they can spread damage over a great radius. A laser really emiting 250mW will risk retinal burns at 500metres. Be VERY careful.

 

Better lighting tools include the Bernzomatic trigger ignition blowtorches -one button sends a blue flame exactly where you put it and the flame goes out when you release the button.

Posted
Thats exactly what I use. Bernzomatic Torches :D MMMMMMM
  • 1 month later...
Posted
E-matches......or is it THAT windy????
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Could do a portable TV flyback transformer that's driven,

I had one and it would light a fuse,

you could burn stuff and such.

It was like 20KV,

high frequency(picture a solid state tesla coil) so if you get shocked you won't be yelling,

don't feel it(but it's not something to be shocked with), but if it was made small enough and used lipos it could light them easily, and last for a long time on one charge.

http://www.powerlabs.org/flybackdriver.htm

 

From what I remember you didn't need to ground anything,

it would just make an arc to the fuse.

If you limited the power or just made a quick burst to light it I think the batteries would last.

Edited by jm82792
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
Could do a portable TV flyback transformer that's driven,

I had one and it would light a fuse,

you could burn stuff and such.

It was like 20KV,

high frequency(picture a solid state tesla coil) so if you get shocked you won't be yelling,

don't feel it(but it's not something to be shocked with), but if it was made small enough and used lipos it could light them easily, and last for a long time on one charge.

http://www.powerlabs.org/flybackdriver.htm

 

From what I remember you didn't need to ground anything,

it would just make an arc to the fuse.

If you limited the power or just made a quick burst to light it I think the batteries would last.

 

 

You know... thats not a half bad idea... I did some minor testing a while back using a NiCad battery from a remote control, placed a staple (yes the kind you stick papers together with) connecting the anode and cathode to complete the circuit. That staple got red hot, probly would have lit a fuse just fine... I bet you could rig up a bbq lighter, something like this with a NiCad, a switch in place of the pizzo, some high gauge wire, and a small filament at the end... Be a little bulky, but I bet it would work... Not quite as cool as a laser though... ;-)

Posted (edited)

That sounds like a good idea,

however I would totally DIY it.

I've done tons of electronics projects,

tesla coils to micro controllers......

 

Utilizing a cheapo RC nicad or preferably NIMH since you don't have as many "memory issues" with the batters.

 

Then choose a thin gauge of nichrome wire,

somehow find out what gauge to use so it won't melt yet gets red hot while it won't suck large amount of electricity from the batteries.

A basic momentary switch would work well and it should get red hot within a second.

 

You could go further,

a chea indicator dial that tells you the voltage,

thus letting you know how much juice you have left.

It would come one with a separate switch since they do some current drain.

More on other ways to monitor you're voltage later....

 

NIMH is better also since you don't have to fulyl discharge it,

with NICAD you have to do so or you'll get issues.

 

I'm not sure what type of curve of usability and battery voltage is correlated,

you might be half way done with the battery and have to recharge it(since it might not get hot enough),

you'd have to fully discharge NICAD while NIMH can be charged no matter how discharged the battery is.

 

You can get nichrome wire on ebay on the cheap($5 shipped),

there has to be calculators for what gauge you need,

for now you can use NICAD but buying a NIMH battery pack with a charge and a connector(so you can hook i up to you project) would be a good idea, a couple bucks on eBay can get you a couple decent switches and lastly a voltage indicator of some sort can be done in a variety of ways......

 

 

If you have some interest I can elaborate ,

I'm sorta out of time right now :)

Edited by jm82792
Posted (edited)

I would do this.... except I lost my battery charger... just bought a house, and am in the process of setting up my shop. I don't even have my mill right now.. :-( Got my priorities... ;-)

 

If this goes anywhere it should probably be moved to a new thread as it has nothing to do with lasers.

Edited by ActionTekJackson
Posted

I agree, new thread.

i would have to dream to have enough fireworks to the point that I'd need something that good to ignite them,

but I'm willing to give out help...

Posted

Sorry, but the whole thread is pure crap.

 

Lasers are cool to light stuff up, but impractical. A green laser powerfull enough to light a fuse will also blind you temporely due to the light scatter (it really hurts the eyes if you look on the "spot" of a 100 mW laser). In the dark it would be much worse.

The best would be a 808 nm laser, 500 mW (look on youtube of what they can do). BUT all these lasers are able to blind you instantly if wrongly used. Geek you may look lighting up the fuse with a laser, but stupid too when you blind yourself/someone else. Not worth the risk imo.

 

The best solution is one of these butane lighters, electrically ignited (with a spark). They can't be put down by the worst wind, they are practical and cheaper then lasers capable of lighting stuff. Actually even Conkling uses one in a video demonstration I saw on NG chanell. If he can use it, I don't see why you can't.

 

As about the electrical discharges, forget it unless you have too much time to spend.

Posted

Forgive me, but I think you're missing the point. Yes... there is danger, but would any of us be into the pyro hobby if we weren't willing to take some risk. Obviously precautions should be taken. The biggest thing you're missing, is the fun factor. All I get from your post is that you don't find lasers that fun, or at least not in the same application as some of us do. That's fine for you, but the rest of us aren't stupid because we like to light things on fire with a fricken beam of light. I believe I stated at the beginning of this thread that the biggest driving factor of wanting to be able to light a fuse with a laser is how cool it would be. You did give me an idea for protecting yourself and others from light scatter, though keep in mind most light scatter off of a fuse is not going to be near the same as the beam itself.

 

As far as practicality goes, yes you are correct.

 

For the filament ignition, might seem like a waste of time, but everyone thought that about the light bulb.

 

Lastly, forgive me if this comes across as a flame, albeit it'd be a weak ass flame, that is not my intention. I merely mean to say, your way is not the only way, and just because a well respected person uses a particular item does not mean that I have to. In short, your post came across (to me anyway) a little rude.

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