usapyro Posted September 29, 2017 Posted September 29, 2017 Anyone here press End Burners with whistle instead of BP? Curious if its finnicky pressure response wise, and the percent increase in power approx. Im not sure its much better, because of the amount of oil you have to add.
usapyro Posted September 29, 2017 Author Posted September 29, 2017 Been considering investing in a press... Need to see if its worth it.
dagabu Posted October 6, 2017 Posted October 6, 2017 Gotta press whistle, and yes, many, many whistle end burners. No sound, just a lot more thrust.
dynomike1 Posted October 6, 2017 Posted October 6, 2017 I press whistle in a 9/16 open choke and get a lot of whistle, but i havent tried an end burner yet. You got to have good Perchlorate.
usapyro Posted October 6, 2017 Author Posted October 6, 2017 I press whistle in a 9/16 open choke and get a lot of whistle, but i havent tried an end burner yet. You got to have good Perchlorate. I got good perc.
dagabu Posted October 20, 2017 Posted October 20, 2017 Even crappy perc burns hot. For good whistle, yes good perc but for power? Nah...
dynomike1 Posted October 22, 2017 Posted October 22, 2017 (edited) I have had whistle fail after being stored for a period of time. Supposed to be due to chinese Perchlorate. Edited October 22, 2017 by dynomike1
Mumbles Posted October 22, 2017 Posted October 22, 2017 Fail in what way? I'd suspect moisture absorption of the fuel more than perchlorate going bad or something like that.
Maserface Posted October 23, 2017 Posted October 23, 2017 "Good perc" is kind of a pet peeve of mine, I've used "good" perc before and found it no better than cheap Chinese "green drum" perc, for 10% the price. And for what it's worth almost all of the winning competitive whistle rockets are using Chinese perc.. You can use whistle without a nozzle in an end burner, they don't lift much but work well in girandolas.. If your rockets fail in storage it's almost certainly a physical failure due to moisture fluctuations causing either cracks in the propellant grain, or cracks at the border between tube and propellant. I've stored very fast core burning whistles in ambient temperatures (TD of nearly 80 degrees), with wildly fluctuations of humidity (at one point the propellant would smear on my finger like Chapstick), and in the spring all 22 of them flew successfully. I wax my tubes, which seemingly prevents one type of propellant failure.
dynomike1 Posted October 23, 2017 Posted October 23, 2017 I stored some in stainless ant it flew fine just no whistle. Last i heard it was due to the P.H. of the Perchlorate.
dagabu Posted October 23, 2017 Posted October 23, 2017 My experiences are the same as Masons, crappy perc works just fine for me and I do spin up all my girandolas with open-ended whistles.
dynomike1 Posted October 24, 2017 Posted October 24, 2017 (edited) What is the PH of your perchlorate?Don't know. I dont have anymore of that anyway. How long did y'all store whistle before you used it? Here is where i got it from. https://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/topic/12100-shelf-life-of-whistle-motors/?hl=serpents Edited October 24, 2017 by dynomike1
Seymour Posted January 28, 2018 Posted January 28, 2018 I know this topic is kinda old... but my experience with whistle end burners with clay nozzles in the 19mm ID size they flew well with a 5.5mm hole, reliably and very well with a 4mm hole in the nozzle, and sometimes flew sometimes exploded with a 3.5mm hole.I was using KP + Ball milled Sodium Benzoate + Wax + CuO + Fe2O3. Slightly hotter than 70/30, about 2.5%wax and 0.5% of each catalyst. Obviously what you can do will vary greatly on your particular whistle mix, but as has been said already, lots of thrust!
calebkessinger Posted January 28, 2018 Posted January 28, 2018 The Duke uses up to 3 to 1 sali whistle / bp. I've gotten them to fly 50/50 also have seen the straight benny whistle ones. Man they are fast. amazing what nice solid fuel grain consolidation and a good nozzle can do.
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