BP rice hulls

[Jordan123]

Hi everybody

 

I'm asking about the kind of Black powder you need to use for coated rice hulls.

Normally, i think you use a bp meal, which was grinded by ball mill.

 

But in order to ignite all of stars and other stuff in your shell which sort of BP is better ?

I think BP who is not ball milled for many hours is not good to used for our rice hulls, the explosion failled probably.

 

So i don't know...

For mesuring the differences, in your own method do you use a grade of BP grinded equivalent for BP lift and rice hulls ?

 

 

I found some solution to have a 100% ignite of my stars because it's a problem for me

[OldMarine]

I use ball-mill dust in a 75-15-10+ 3% dextrin mix to coat my rice hulls at a 7:1 ratio and have found it to be of very good performance. You cannot use powder that has been granulated for this.

[AzoMittle]

I do the same as OM, ball milled for about 3-4 hours (chems are pretty fine to begin with)

[Jordan123]

Thanks for the answers, me too i use the same

Anyone have test rice hulls coated by green mix ?

[Sulphurstan]

Yep, green mix (kn ballmilled 1 night, willow and sulfur also ballmilled, then screened together), and making 7:1 coated wood little chips: Until now i'm happy with my breaks and ignition rate. Edited October 11, 2017 by Sulphurstan

[pyrojig]

If anything , your goal is to use the hottest milled powder to coat your hullls with . Otherwise your going to resort to using boosters like flash or whistle to get decent breaks . With really hot bp you may get good breaks , assuming your pasting is good. I use 5-1 and hot bp . it gets the job done nicely. I use the 5 gal bucket method to mix the hulls , usually 10+#'s at a time this way. last bp coat has not binder in it , but one can use the standard 5% dextrinated bp meal powder to obtain good results for a last coat .

[Jordan123]

Why you last coat has no binder, the binder change something ?

[OldMarine]

Dextrin or other binders slow the powder down a bit. An added coat of dry powder helps the hulls catch and spread fire a bit quicker. I quit bothering with the extra step once I figured out most of the unbound powder was ending up in the bottom of the container.

[Jordan123]

Haha ! Ok so i don't try to use a last layer without dextin

I have ever heard and believe than binder slow the powder it's true.

[Mumbles]

A final layer without a binder also helps to prevent clumping to some degree.

[MrB]

Final layer without it's own sticky agent, shouldn't really be a problem. It's going on to a sticky surface. It's not going to build much of a layer, but it should coat the stars nicely, and stay there.

[braddsn]

Use the hottest bp that you can, and use as little moisture as possible on your hulls to avoid clumping, etc. I soak my hulls in water, then swing them in a pillowcase to shed excess moisture, then I pour them out onto a towel so that the towel absorbs even more moisture. Then I put the hulls inside a large bowl, pour the bp in, then put a lid on the bowl and shake shake shake!

[Sulphurstan]

Use the hottest bp that you can, and use as little moisture as possible on your hulls to avoid clumping, etc. I soak my hulls in water, then swing them in a pillowcase to shed excess moisture, then I pour them out onto a towel so that the towel absorbs even more moisture. Then I put the hulls inside a large bowl, pour the bp in, then put a lid on the bowl and shake shake shake!

 

EXACTLY the same way! I add my hot greenmix in several times, until the hulls all look "dry". I believe that as long as the last coat is matt and kind of rough, the hulls will catch fire very well and very quick. Personnally, i also coat the last layer with dextrinated green mix because i came to the same conclusion as OM did.

[OldMarine]

I'm using BP coated hulls in my 4" shells (ball and cylinder) and need to up the burst power a bit. I've thought of adding KP burst to start before moving to whistle and flash but I'm wondering if I should diaper it into the bulk of the hulls or simply sprinkle it in as I fill the shell. I'm leaning toward the latter simply because I'll have no wasted material and can use it again rather than having to burn the excess.

[chuckufarley]

Unless you have your breaks really dialed in, I would think you would want to add burst on a shell by shell basis.

Now if your talking about dusting the bulk rice hulls needed to fill the one shell, or adding it as you go, Im not sure. I would think that dusting the entire burst charge evenly would give a more consistent break, but Im not sure how much it would really make a difference

[OldMarine]

I guess I'm going to have to get my star production ramped up if I'm going to do any meaningful experiments. Hard to keep things in order if every three shells have a different batch of stars. Adds one too many variables.

May have to build a star roller soon.

[braddsn]

I suggest keeping it simple Oldmarine, add 70/30 to increase break power, to your liking. I use a max of 6g in a 3 inch shell, 9 grams in a 4, and so on. Sprinkle it into the shell on the burst before you close it up. Half in each hemi.