best way to affix 2 or more ball shells i.e penut shell

[RiderX]

whats the best way to affix 2x 2.5 or 3 inch ball shells together i know ill have a time fuse on both top and bottom of the lower shell

But on the hemi that shares the tf between the bottom and top shell what should i do?

 

i figure i could hot glue in the tf in both hemi halves as normal ( Hot glue on the outside of the hemi) , and then place the second shells hemi down over the time fuse sticking out from the bottom shell and hot glue it from the inside of the hemi.

 

Once that is dont a bead of hot glue between the 2 hemi halves to hold them together better ?

 

or would i be better using a piece of 3mm visco wraped in tape between the top and bottom shell since the timing between the 2 going off will be very short .5-1 seconds or so

 

my other thought was to Hot glue both shells together and have a TF in the top shell on the top of it and Tf in the bottom shell above the lift charge as usual and use the quick match to light the top shells TF and also the lift charge thus igniting the bottoms shells TF

Edited August 3, 2017 by RiderX

[OldMarine]

Has MTM hijacked your account? That's incomprehensible to me.

[RiderX]

Has MTM hijacked your account? That's incomprehensible to me

lmao dam auto correct let me go back and fix some stuff

[OldMarine]

After getting Ellie Mae the Wonder Dog to translate:

You should fuse each break individually just as with any multi-break shell. Punch a hole opposite the time fuse on the first break and insert the fuse of the next into that opening. I run a bead of hot glue around the joint and hold until securely stuck. Continue with following breaks and finish with a twisted paste wrap and lift cup.

Hope I got the answer to your question.

[RiderX]

After getting Ellie Mae the Wonder Dog to translate:

You should fuse each break individually just as with any multi-break shell. Punch a hole opposite the time fuse on the first break and insert the fuse of the next into that opening. I run a bead of hot glue around the joint and hold until securely stuck. Continue with following breaks and finish with a twisted paste wrap and lift cup.

Hope I got the answer to your question.

You got it thank you, i wasnt sure if i should use the bottom shells burst to ignite the top shells TF or not

[Mumbles]

You can do it either way. I tend to see more individually fused peanut ball shells than ones that light the next break.

[Arthur]

The peanuts I'm aware of use the lift charge to light both time fuses, the top shell simply being placed in the paper cover alongside the bottom shell and it's lift.

[dynomike1]

I basically do ball shells this way, as far as fusing and glueing together.

http://www.skylighter.com/fireworks/how-to-make/2-inch-canister-shells.asp

[Xtreme Pyro]

I agree with what Arthur said, DO NOT fuse the two shells together! Not only is that WAY more work than you need to be doing, but that's a great way to blow out a timefuse after the first break and end up with a round trip. Work smarter, not harder as they say

Build both shells as normal, but add +1-1.5 second(s) to the second break, and fine tune it from there. Cut yourself a small section of tube for a spacer, I use a toilet paper roll for 4" peanuts for example. Glue the spacer ontop of the FIRST break (bottom shell), and then put the second break on TOP of that spacer slightly offseting the timefuse on the top break so it's on the side of the first break. Weigh your shell, add lift + leader baggie and wrap the whole thing in a couple turns of craft paper to keep everything contained. I do like to run my time fuse beside the offset time fuse on the side break before wrapping in paper for extra insurance, but it shouldn't be necessary as it will light just as easily as a rising tail. I've attached a picture to illustrate what I mean..

Another thing, when making your spacer make sure there is not much room between the two shells.. They should almost be touching.

Shell with spacer:

Completed, wrapped shell:

Edited August 4, 2017 by Xtreme Pyro

[OldMarine]

I like that. I've found little info and was just going from what I could glean from forum threads and video. Just remembered there is a tute on SL that I should rewatch before it's gone....

[RiderX]

awesome thank you for the pictures huge help, now that brings up another question , if i do make one i wanna start small , so 2.5 shells , my tubes are 15 inch long with a 1 inch plug iirc tube long enough to fire a peanut shell ? My 3 inch are 18 inch long

Edited August 5, 2017 by RiderX

[Xtreme Pyro]

I like that. I've found little info and was just going from what I could glean from forum threads and video. Just remembered there is a tute on SL that I should rewatch before it's gone....

 

No worries! I started out using the method you outlined above, it seemed to work fine on the 1.75" shells, but once I started getting into 2.5"+.. It became very unreliable. Seemed the burst was too strong for the fuse/glue joint on my boosted shells, either that or the first break ruptured the second shell. Just trying to save everyone some headache. The method I showed is the same way commercial peanuts are manufactured (1.3g shells I mean, consumer are a different story).

 

I intend on doing a 16" peanut in February of next year.. Should be good

 

 

awesome thank you for the pictures huge help, now that brings up another question , if i do make one i wanna start small , so 2.5 shells , my tubes are 15 inch long with a 1 inch plug iirc tube long enough to fire a peanut shell ? My 3 inch are 18 inch long

No problem! Happy to help, the first picture I posted is actually a 2.5" shell. I just measured my mortars and they are all 15". I was able to fire that peanut just fine.. If you're concerned just use a little extra lift .

Edited August 5, 2017 by Xtreme Pyro

[Wiley]

A 16" peanut? Sounds like 120 pounds of awesome!

 

Will they both be kamuro, or something different? Do you plan on allowing several seconds between the bursts, or have them go almost simultaneously? Lots of possibilities with this one!

 

Be sure to get video!

Edited August 7, 2017 by Wiley

[Arthur]

In the UK a peanut shell with separate time fuses is classified by the diameter of each ball shell, BUT a shell where one ball fires the other is classified by the height of the peanut, so a 4" peanut would be 8" high and classified as 1.1 which makes storage and transport more challenging. Hence we prefer the separately fused peanut where we have them.

 

Having seen the plug blown out of a 16" mortar with a 25Kilo shell I'd hate to see the damage from a failure of a 16" peanut. Consider digging the mortar well into the ground.

[Wiley]

Xtreme has a very good track record with building these larger shells. I'm sure this one will be gorgeous.

 

I'd be surprised if a 16" shell burst in the gun and only pushed the plug out. Typically that turns an HDPE gun into spaghetti.