Where to get NC Lacquer (powder)

[OblivionFall]

I'm following the guide of what I believe to be Ned Gorski or some other pyro veteran's method to making NC Lacquer. I'm trying to granulate a mixture involving TPA for a more clean handling and loading of the mixture and, of course, less chance of accident from stray dust. Of course this isn't completely necessary so if there's no easy way to get a hold of this "NC Lacquer" powder stuff then I probably won't bother. But any way to improve the safety of the compounds that I'm working with that doesn't "cost an arm and a leg" is important to me.

 

I'm wondering where you guys get your NC Lacquer, and where I can get my own Lacquer, specifically in Canada?

 

I'm open to suggestions for other suitable binders.

 

Also on a sidenote, I haven't had access to fireworking.com (where I got the information about this TPA mixture) for some time now and I'm just getting back into pyro so I can build some stuff up at my new ranch so I have "forgotten" a bit of information. To ignite this mixture, will a standard BP visco fuse require to be primed or not? If this is the case then I assume the fuse needs more heat at the end, would that mean that I could simply tie a knot in the end of the fuse instead as a similar means to increase heat for the ignition of this compound?

 

Cheers

[Mumbles]

A majority of people make their own NC Lacquer. Acetone and smokeless powder for reloading is the most common source. Nitrocellulose based ping-pong balls are occasionally used, but contain substantial amounts of camphor and some other fillers. They're not all NC based for what it's worth. There are products also made from cellulose acetate as well as a terrible version made from polyethylene. There are sources of pre-made lacquer used for sealing wood. I often see the stuff cited for guitar finishing as having less plasticizers and other additives in it.

[davidh]

firefox-fx.com caries nitrocellulose and NC lacquer.

[rogeryermaw]

check ebay for guitar paint. many of these are nitrocellulose...may be of a lower nitration but should be ok for pyro purposes. many nail polishes are also nitro based. also, many guitar picks are nitro. you can tell by burning one. they are dirt cheap so get several of one kind. burn one. if it leaves little to no ash, it is nitro based.

[OldMarine]

There's a thread on FW going on now recommending granulating using Dextrin/water or phenolic/alcohol if NC lacquer isn't available. People are reporting good results.

[OblivionFall]

There's a thread on FW going on now recommending granulating using Dextrin/water or phenolic/alcohol if NC lacquer isn't available. People are reporting good results.

Great! I made a bunch of dextrin from corn starch so I'll have to put it to use.

[dagabu]

THIS is very close to what I sell to a local Luthier.

[Greg]

This is what I use for making dragon eggs. Just mix with acetone and it is ready to use. I use about 10% prills and 90% acetone by weight. Can be stored in a airtight bottle once mixed. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/200g-Nitrocellulose-Prills-High-Grade-Dissolves-easily-for-making-lacquer-/252963792195?hash=item3ae5d12543%3Ag%3AaigAAOSw%7EFJZLDYu&_trkparms=pageci%253A392718d9-7c2f-11e7-a98b-74dbd180a2e8%257Cparentrq%253Ac1aaf1ee15d0ab19f22dde3bfffffdfa%257Ciid%253A2

[FlaMtnBkr]

I pushed the use of TPA in flash for a few years before anyone else really picked up on it and tried it and it looks like it's finally gaining some popularity. I discussed it quite a bit on all of the big 3 pyro forums so if you do some searching here you will likely find quite a bit of info on it.

 

As for how easily it ignites, that basically depends on the forumula you use and how much TPA is added. I like the way the 71/17/12 formula works and a piece of 1/8" hot visco has always been reliable for me. Though the TPA does make it a little harder to light that without it so if you have a quick way of priming your fuse it certainly can't hurt anything. If you use a higher percentage of TPA or a small diameter fuse then I would suggest doing something to make things a bit hotter. Some NC lacquer with a good amount of BP mixed in with maybe even 1 or 2 percent of atomized aluminum, should make a quick and effective prime.

 

I'm a bit surprised people are using water to granulate flash but I imagine you are more likely to degrade performance than an actual safety concern. I granulated it a few times and it just wasn't worth the added effort personally. If I was filling small timed inserts that might be another story but for most other things I never had a problem with using a powder. And if I could binary mix I didn't even bother with the TPA because once it is sealed in a container where pressure can build the safety aspect is gone.

 

Be safe and feel free to ask any questions. I have experimented and used a lot of TPA flash over the years and will try to answer anything I can.

[Mumbles]

Have you ever tried timed effects with it? A member on Fireworking, well experienced with cylinder shells and inserts was recently experimenting with it. He reported poor timing, and inconsistent ignition from timefuse.