memo Posted January 6, 2017 Posted January 6, 2017 boy, your guess is as good as mine, i can see a lot of trial and error sorting that one out. if it works it would be cool
Pyrodood Posted January 28, 2017 Posted January 28, 2017 I tried to achieve that swimming effect by coating Shimizus 'Brilliant Core" formula with a comp that contained carbonates, (Shimizus KP Blue #1) in hopes that the burned out shell would provide some containment and produce the desired effect. They were nice, but didn't 'swim' like I'd hoped they would. Video here:
Mia Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 Star mine test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aqG2RjRQZ5I
memo Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 mia those move real nice, go getters ? or swimming stars ? memo
Mia Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 Hi Memo they are rolled swimming stars, if I remember I rolled them to 10-12 mm, I published the yellow in AFN they are PVB bound, the trick is the delay prime that’s where you get the jetting effect from, I have got them to hum before, the video does not do them justice.
Mia Posted January 31, 2017 Posted January 31, 2017 Thank you I will be going public on the subject very soon on Pyro gear
carbonhalo Posted February 1, 2017 Posted February 1, 2017 I am a little perplexed that these swimmers travel in a straight line. All my go-getters and unsticked payload motors always corkscrew.
Zingy Posted February 1, 2017 Posted February 1, 2017 (edited) There was a gentleman at PGI this past Summer, in Laporte's trade show, who was selling, go-getter tooling and tubes. Instead of using a end cap, at the sealed end, of his go-getters, he used high temperature furnace paint. I would imagine, high temperature furnace paint would work, for swimming star cores. Edited February 1, 2017 by Zingy
lloyd Posted February 1, 2017 Posted February 1, 2017 Even a healthy multi-coat dose of regular Wal-Mart cheapy spray paint will inhibit them fairly well. BTDT. I eventually went to an application-specific engineered coating for my crossettes (which were NOT pasted-in), but this was for the purpose of processing time. Paint takes too long to dry in a high-volume commercial setting. I'll bet any paint that leaves a thick, pigment-filled coat (mostly TiOx) on the stars would probably work. Heavy 'flat' enamels come to mind -- and they're available in spray cans. Lloyd 1
Boophoenix Posted February 2, 2017 Posted February 2, 2017 Nice Mia!!! You may just have as many names as I do in web presence as I do in real life, lol.
pyrokid Posted February 4, 2017 Posted February 4, 2017 Even a healthy multi-coat dose of regular Wal-Mart cheapy spray paint will inhibit them fairly well. BTDT. I eventually went to an application-specific engineered coating for my crossettes (which were NOT pasted-in), but this was for the purpose of processing time. Paint takes too long to dry in a high-volume commercial setting. I'll bet any paint that leaves a thick, pigment-filled coat (mostly TiOx) on the stars would probably work. Heavy 'flat' enamels come to mind -- and they're available in spray cans. LloydHey Lloyd, are you able to give us a starting point regarding the dip coating method for the crossettes?
memo Posted February 5, 2017 Posted February 5, 2017 PIANT GETS A LITTLE SPENDS clay is almost free, depends on the smell
NeighborJ Posted February 5, 2017 Posted February 5, 2017 (edited) I bet a thin coating of epoxy would set fast and work well as an inhibitor as long as it is cut with enough cabosil. Just a quick dip and cured in 5 minutes. It should be easy enough to roll other comps over it as well. On another note, when memo made his getters he primed the stars before coating them with clay. I really don't see the purpose of doing this, they will be lit easily enough from the comp rolled over top. The inner comp is an aggressive burning fuel so it should be chosen from list of easily ignited comps. Edited February 5, 2017 by NeighborJ
wildcherryxoxo Posted February 5, 2017 Posted February 5, 2017 I bet a thin coating of epoxy would set fast and work well as an inhibitor as long as it is cut with enough cabosil. Just a quick dip and cured in 5 minutes. It should be easy enough to roll other comps over it as well. On another note, when memo made his getters he primed the stars before coating them with clay. I really don't see the purpose of doing this, they will be lit easily enough from the comp rolled over top. The inner comp is an aggressive burning fuel so it should be chosen from list of easily ignited comps.I get a pretty stiff pucker when I think about belt sanding a color comp (especially bright metal fueled types). A layer of 'black powder' would make me personally feel better about that. 1
NeighborJ Posted February 5, 2017 Posted February 5, 2017 (edited) Good point Cherry, I would think that method would be better suited for organic formulas. I'd think the prime layer could burn faster than the inner comp which could cause it to pop the shell. I have a hunch that it wouldn't benefit by using a metal fueled core because the extra light generated would be shielded by the shell. Most of the light needs to be emitted from its tail. I don't think I'd use a belt sander anyhow, I think a gentle stroke along a bastard file would remove the shell. Edited February 5, 2017 by NeighborJ
schroedinger Posted February 7, 2017 Posted February 7, 2017 Maybe also worth a shot, to modify the process descibed in FAST for the white smoke streamer stars. Take a deep frying strainer, make all stars one size, submerge them about 3/4 into wheat paste, let drip of for about 1 min, roll in gypsum and then prime. The way using a hot cube core like 5 KNO3 3 dark AL, 2 Sulfur 1 Red Gum and covering works good and is easy.
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