dynomike1 Posted November 13, 2016 Posted November 13, 2016 Does anyone maybe have a Nitrate Aqua formula that they wouldn't mind sharing? I think i have looked at all the sources that i have, and i cant find aqua.
NeighborJ Posted November 14, 2016 Posted November 14, 2016 Dynomike, the only one I know of is a Granite star. However it is quite pale but a nice beautiful one. After searching myself, I found a turquoise star in pyrodata.com It's misspelled as torquose and it still uses 10% KClO3. I haven't tried it.
Mumbles Posted November 14, 2016 Posted November 14, 2016 Here's one I developed that I like. It was inspired by Independence Tangerine. There's still some perchlorate in it, but you could try with all nitrate. It should work with all saran or parlon too. There is another formula from JOPETES that is listed as turquoise that is rather similar and will probably be good too. BaNO3 42MgAl (-200) 12Parlon 9Saran 9Red Gum 8Potassium Perchlorate 10Copper Oxide 10Dextrin + 5
dynomike1 Posted November 14, 2016 Author Posted November 14, 2016 Thanks Mum. I guess what i meant is i try to stay from Chlorate, perchlorate i have. I have tried JOPETES it was more green with the copper oxide on the low side , i haven't tried to adjust it yet. I don't have saran though. I wonder how it would work without it? I will probably try Phenolic in place of red gum.
braddsn Posted November 16, 2016 Posted November 16, 2016 Mike, the JOPETES aqua is quite green unless you bump the CuO up to 11. Then it becomes the color that you are probably looking for. I know on the PDF it says to only go up to 10, but I like the color that 11CuO makes. Also, if you have any titanium (NOT FeTi), add 2% and it REALLY looks nice..... like this: 1
braddsn Posted November 16, 2016 Posted November 16, 2016 The JOPETES turquoise with just 6 CuO looks like this.. quite greenish... https://youtu.be/y4f9UNyPfDc?t=6s
dynomike1 Posted November 16, 2016 Author Posted November 16, 2016 (edited) I am at 7 right now on JOPETES. They are so bright it's hard to tell. It may be the camera, but the first one looks blue. Edited November 16, 2016 by dynomike1
JOPETES Posted November 16, 2016 Posted November 16, 2016 (edited) The turquoise color has different shades, each person likes one or the other. This has 7% black copper oxide.I do not recommend adding more than 9 or 10% to the composition, otherwise you can start to slightly fade the color and generate some slag or a slight tail in the flight. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HabhQnC6yRE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3cq9rfxBBI&feature=youtu.be First of all, I want to make clear that these aeriall shells have been built by two great comrades with very good skill in fireworks, freakdutschman and fredhappy, the colors are pdf jopetes. Edited November 16, 2016 by JOPETES
Mumbles Posted November 16, 2016 Posted November 16, 2016 I generally consider turquoise and aqua to be two sides of the same coin. Turquoise to be on the green side, and aqua to be on the blue. The one I posted above is bluer than the 7% CuO video and it's hard to tell compared to Brad's. True aquas are actually sort of hard for metallic stars. The organic ones are around but tend to be chlorate based or have hard to find components like HCB. I think the biggest factor is the metal decomposing the blue species faster than the green. It's easy to forget that you still need to pay attention to that when the color still looks fine, even if not exactly what you want. Via dumb luck I think I escape that somewhat by the high chlorine donor content of the star I posted above.
NeighborJ Posted November 16, 2016 Posted November 16, 2016 I've made a good aqua from a modified version of Weingarts granite formula. My goal was to try to eliminate the yellow charcoal flame so the metal color can show more, it is also a nitrate star. 61-Zn, 22-KNO3, 3-charcoal, 9-phenolic, 4 sulfur. I disolved it with acetone only, and without the need for hexamine because it too burns with a yellow flame. The Phenolic content is high enough that it doesn't need the curing process. If weather permits I'll try to do a comparison test between this and the original formula tonight. modified granite.mp4
dynomike1 Posted November 16, 2016 Author Posted November 16, 2016 (edited) Here is mine with black copper oxide @ 7 + Phenolic. Waiting on prime to finish drying. It looks a little greener on the video. I should be able to put them in a mine tomorrow night. Edited November 16, 2016 by dynomike1
NeighborJ Posted November 16, 2016 Posted November 16, 2016 Nice, it will certainly be brighter than the zinc star and without dropping any slag too.
braddsn Posted November 17, 2016 Posted November 17, 2016 Mike, if they are too green for ya, bump the CuO up to 10, I bet you will like it. Mumbles, I am gonna give the formula you posted above a try!
dynomike1 Posted November 18, 2016 Author Posted November 18, 2016 Well my wife said it looked good enough, ill put it in the air tonight if it's not raining. Last night was to windy.
braddsn Posted November 19, 2016 Posted November 19, 2016 Yeah Mike this big cold front moving through is making some serious wind at my place. Gusted 30-35mph all day today. Winter is here!
dynomike1 Posted November 19, 2016 Author Posted November 19, 2016 (edited) Yea and i need to roll some stars and granulate some powder. Maybe i will get to put some Aqua in the air tonight, after this .6" rain.Jopetes have you tried any with Copper Oxychloride? I seem to have a lot of that, after i ordered some and then found some i had hid.freakdutschman? I have seen some of there videos. They like Salutes. Edited November 19, 2016 by dynomike1
JOPETES Posted November 19, 2016 Posted November 19, 2016 Yea and i need to roll some stars and granulate some powder. Maybe i will get to put some Aqua in the air tonight, after this .6" rain.Jopetes have you tried any with Copper Oxychloride? I seem to have a lot of that, after i ordered some and then found some i had hid.freakdutschman? I have seen some of there videos. They like Salutes. Yes, for a long time I used copper oxychloride and I have always observed, in my point of view a slightly better blue color than black copper oxide, but I observed in my tests with stargun and in air shells that with strong openings, At high speed, the stars had more difficult to ignite and I began to use the copper oxide that produces a pretty decent blue and the stars light much better. Copper oxychloride has two good things, the first is that it contains chlorine, which in the blue composition requires a less contribution of parlon or pvc and so the color is less dirty, a purer blue is perceived and also the copper oxychloride Comes from ultrafine powder factory and mixes better in the composition than with copper oxide. This is my experience with copper oxychloride. Anyway, from my experience and from my point of view with the blue colors, the search for an ideal or almost ideal blue color is absurd, is to break the head in vain. Today, there are very decent blue colors with simple formulas. Always try the blue stars in the air and at some distance because the ground tests cheat in sight !.We have to observe how it illuminates the environment surrounding the center of the flame, if it is a good blue, perfect, but if it is a washed blue that formula is not fit. José
dynomike1 Posted November 19, 2016 Author Posted November 19, 2016 (edited) But these were not with Phenolic. From what i have observed with Phenolic they light easier and burn faster, of course this is ground testing. ThanksMIKE Edited November 19, 2016 by dynomike1
dynomike1 Posted November 20, 2016 Author Posted November 20, 2016 (edited) I finally got something in the air. Lets see what yall think. These were 1/2" stars bound with Phenolic with +7 Cuo. Edited November 20, 2016 by dynomike1
OldMarine Posted November 20, 2016 Posted November 20, 2016 I finally got something in the air. Lets see what yall think. Those of us on mobile devices can't watch 4k video without going broke.
NeighborJ Posted November 20, 2016 Posted November 20, 2016 Looking good Mike, if I didn't know any better, I'd say those were zinc stars. No orange fire fly thou. They sure are bright, I wonder how it'd look with less metal? You may need the metal in a shell.
braddsn Posted November 20, 2016 Posted November 20, 2016 Those look good Mike, although it's hard to tell by a video on my phone.. haha. I quickly noticed that the phenolic bound stars light much easier. Did you find the same?
JOPETES Posted November 20, 2016 Posted November 20, 2016 I finally got something in the air. Lets see what yall think. These were 1/2" stars bound with Phenolic with +7 Cuo. Mike, the color and the shine very well, it is a very nice turquoise but the color is best seen in an aerial shell. I think the combustion time of the star is a bit short to be almost 13mm in diameter. Should be around 3 seconds minimum. In pyrotechnics half a second is like gold. I imagine it will be because of the phenolic resin. José
dynomike1 Posted November 20, 2016 Author Posted November 20, 2016 I agree Jose, that may create a problem using Phenolic. These 1/2" pumped stars will probably go in a 4 or 5" ring shell. 3/8" might work in a 3" shell, but i fear they might burn to fast and may have to go back to Dextrin on the smaller stars. I am pondering on making 3/8 or 1/2". I am not sure how i can adjust the burn time with Phenolic in them. When i start building shells next month i will probably test one of the Aqua and Pink. I might try a pink in a mine tonight.Brad i did find they light faster and burn fasterJ those aren't bright. If you want to see bright, make some Blesser white strobe with phenolic in them.
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