Arw Posted November 4, 2016 Posted November 4, 2016 (edited) Hey AllHow can I make my Mg/Al fine?Can I mill that by glass media?If not so what can i do?tnx Edited November 4, 2016 by Arw
August Posted November 4, 2016 Posted November 4, 2016 First you will need to reduce it to under 30 mesh, I use a ninja ultimate blender, about $300. Then either a true hammer mill, I have micro bantom, or ball mill with stainless steel media, which I also have. Don't use glass, I doubt it will survive, it was chipping my ceramic media. Will also need screens to classify it. I have the blender $300, micro bantom $2500 (used), 52 lbs of stainless steel media $600 (was really good deal), sieve shaker $300 (used), replace screens $400, need to be dedicated screens. Or if you're in the US, just buy it from me for $12/lb. Have everything from 8-20 to flash grade. If you decide to ball mill, be careful with extended milling times. After about 24 hours it can become reactive and heat up when dumped out.
Sparx88 Posted November 4, 2016 Posted November 4, 2016 Yah just buy it, your a long way off from being able to process it yourself. Just the job of creating an alloy of the two is out of reach for most. And like August said, to process it further is expensive and dangerous. Not worth it if all you need is a couple pounds here and there. 1
memo Posted November 4, 2016 Posted November 4, 2016 I can't buy mag/al here, made a 400 gram batch today. turned out great. now if I could make antimony tri sulfied and strontium it would help a bunch
austar Posted November 5, 2016 Posted November 5, 2016 I have been making magnesium powder and mixing with aluminum powder 50/50 by weight with great results. Can anybody tell me what the difference is from use a true alloy of both???I work in an aluminum casting factory and will be making my own alloy. But mixing the individual powders is easier and safer. So what is the difference? Can anybody actually give a true account? ( thinking mumbles will step in here lol)
OldMarine Posted November 5, 2016 Posted November 5, 2016 (edited) In the alloy, the aluminum forms an oxide coating that reduces the reactivity of the mg, making it a bit safer to use in comps. If used as separate metals the mg will need to be treated to protect it.I'm sure the action in comps will differ as well but as you said, Mumbles will probably have to answer that part. Edited November 5, 2016 by OldMarine
memo Posted November 5, 2016 Posted November 5, 2016 magnalium is a alloy, after you make the mg/al alloy then you pulverize it. from what I understand a 50/50 mix is the best and safest. I clean my al to get it to pretty pure. the magnesium I am not sure of the %. I would need to buy ingots to know. been using turnings that were free bee perks from skylighter, memo
Seymour Posted November 6, 2016 Posted November 6, 2016 Not only does the alloy have a lot more corrosion resistance than Magnesium, but it burns a lot more cleanly than Aluminium, although very fine flake Aluminium is not too far behind. Depending on what grade of Aluminium you are using (specifically particle size and shape) you'll have something between a moderate improvement and a huge improvement in coloured compositions using either pure Mg or the alloy, compared to simply mixing Al and Mg. What Aluminium are you using?
austar Posted November 6, 2016 Posted November 6, 2016 In our factory we use many different aluminum alloys. A lot we smelt from scratch. Ea is the most common often with strontium added for strength. We have barrels full of magnesium as well.All depends on whst we are casting and the different properties needed.
Arw Posted November 6, 2016 Author Posted November 6, 2016 First you will need to reduce it to under 30 mesh, I use a ninja ultimate blender, about $300. Then either a true hammer mill, I have micro bantom, or ball mill with stainless steel media, which I also have. Don't use glass, I doubt it will survive, it was chipping my ceramic media. Will also need screens to classify it. I have the blender $300, micro bantom $2500 (used), 52 lbs of stainless steel media $600 (was really good deal), sieve shaker $300 (used), replace screens $400, need to be dedicated screens. Or if you're in the US, just buy it from me for $12/lb. Have everything from 8-20 to flash grade. If you decide to ball mill, be careful with extended milling times. After about 24 hours it can become reactive and heat up when dumped out.I can't buy and I have to make it.:-/please explain to me what kind of blender and micro bantom I need
August Posted November 7, 2016 Posted November 7, 2016 Google ninja ultimate blender, not the pro or any cheaper varieties they carry or get a vitamix. I blend for a minute per load then screen. If I'm looking for more fines, I run it through my bantom. Otherwise put it in sieve shaker.
Seymour Posted November 8, 2016 Posted November 8, 2016 (edited) Particle shape and size are more what I am asking, rather than the alloy. The only Aluminium I've tried in coloured compositions that I've found to be close to as good as MgAl is Dark flake, but even then I prefer MgAl. Edited November 8, 2016 by Seymour
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