Aspirina Posted October 1, 2016 Posted October 1, 2016 (edited) I share here the first shells I do with this top fuse system. After the failure in "San Juan", I decided to try again this time with better results. 2" Salute20g Flash powder36g Total4g Lift charge http://oi67.tinypic.com/296owgn.jpg http://oi64.tinypic.com/2e2jdzs.jpg Video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcW7JcOsnao 3" ShellStars mix - Tiger Tail - CuCO3 Blue stars - Kno3+AL White stars98g Total10g Lift charge http://oi68.tinypic.com/23uq8mv.jpg http://oi63.tinypic.com/vyqzjm.jpg http://oi63.tinypic.com/n4a3jc.jpg http://oi64.tinypic.com/2is9tv5.jpg http://oi67.tinypic.com/ehnle9.jpg Video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5KmlYrNPp8 This is all guys, I take this post to ask if someone can recommend me some white glitter with mg/al to know that give good results? pd: sry for the bad filming Greetings Edited October 1, 2016 by Aspirina
OldMarine Posted October 2, 2016 Posted October 2, 2016 video is private, cant watch itI hate it when this happens.
Merlin Posted October 2, 2016 Posted October 2, 2016 This is a personal weakness on my part. I do top fuse but instead of sending fire to the fuse and then to the lift charge I send fire to the lift charge first a then let the lift charge ignite fast fuse to the time fuse/ spolettes. I suspect this is not conventional but if the time fuse lights and then then quick match fails to light the lift charge....Anyone else do this?
pyrojig Posted October 2, 2016 Posted October 2, 2016 Id rather it fail in the gun that fall out of the sky ... just my two cents lolI prefer staying with traditional methods , believing safety and ignition of the device is more the concern.
Merlin Posted October 2, 2016 Posted October 2, 2016 (edited) Id rather it fail in the gun that fall out of the sky ... just my two cents lolI prefer staying with traditional methods , believing safety and ignition of the device is more the concern. perhaps you are right. just seems like the burst charge exploding in the mortar along with the lift charge would be pretty bad. I fire mine so the only victims front a falling shell might be a cow. I have never had one fail to burst but I did have one where the leader got choked off so nothing happened at all. Edited October 2, 2016 by Mumbles fixed quote
OldMarine Posted October 2, 2016 Posted October 2, 2016 Long visco is the secret to long hair and life retention. I put enough visco on my devices that I can crawl away with only 1 arm dragging my fat ass away. 1
Merlin Posted October 2, 2016 Posted October 2, 2016 Long visco is the secret to long hair and life retention. I put enough visco on my devices that I can crawl away with only 1 arm dragging my fat ass away.I use a good length of visco too. But seriously do most people fuse to spolette first then to lift charge?
Aspirina Posted October 2, 2016 Author Posted October 2, 2016 (edited) I always fire my shells with the shoot of mortar, antler several users told me to fire first the fuse and then the lift charge. I have been informing me and I have seen that it is common to do it this way, right? Edited October 2, 2016 by Aspirina
Bangkokpyro Posted October 2, 2016 Posted October 2, 2016 Top fused shells should always be fused directly to the Spolette or time fuse then a Passfire to direct fire to the lift. If you are worried about choking off the fire to the lift or for some other reason the fuse lighting but not he lift then this is my way of ensuring foolproof ignition of both. part 1 part 2 part 3
memo Posted October 2, 2016 Posted October 2, 2016 Aspirina, the best advise I can give you is to watch all of Bangkok pyros videos and Ned Gorskis Youtube videos. And get the books Pyrotechnica IX and XI . That will give you all the info you need to really get going doing it right. or at least help. that shell looked good, I wish I could have seen more of it. memo
Merlin Posted October 3, 2016 Posted October 3, 2016 (edited) Top fused shells should always be fused directly to the Spolette or time fuse then a Passfire to direct fire to the lift.If you are worried about choking off the fire to the lift or for some other reason the fuse lighting but not he lift thenthis is my way of ensuring foolproof ignition of both. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMTUS8j6Vuw part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-C0icDA5X8 part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMXa0m2-IT0 part 3n Respect for Bangkok pyro!! best video I have seen on fusing! excellent workshop and explanation superb. very professional.I suppose with adequate closure I could bottom fuse with timefuse as I only make 3&4" single breaks. very informational effective videos. Thanks for sharing! where are you located? Edited October 3, 2016 by Merlin
Bangkokpyro Posted October 3, 2016 Posted October 3, 2016 Thank you Merlin. I live in Bangkok but my workshop is located in Sakgeow province near to the Cambodian border. Yes you can bottom fuse smaller (3 and 4 inch single breaks) shells with time fuse and though some people say it should not be done be done I have never had a failure with any I have constructed. I would not bottom fuse with a Spolette though; the force of the lift charge could push the powder core out of the Spolette into the shell setting it off in the gun. The powder core on a time fuse is far smaller and is not going to be forced out. Just make sure the time fuse is well sealed with hide glue and your pasted paper layer laps up around the fuse. I always insert time fuse into a 1/4 ID tube. It gives space to paste up the side of the tube and also protects the fuse from moisture.
Aspirina Posted October 4, 2016 Author Posted October 4, 2016 Thanks for the answers I know the videos of bangkokpyro, your job is very perfect, thank you for share with me your videos, it is fortunate that pro pyrotechnic answer to messages from new people that start in this world. very good information of top fusing, I will try to apply it in the next few shells. I take the opportunity to ask again: someone recommended me some glitter that give good results? I would also like to ask if anyone tried to make charcoal in electric stove? it works? pd: I will find Pyrotechnica IX and XI
NeighborJ Posted October 4, 2016 Posted October 4, 2016 Aspirina, I'm not so sure that cooking charcoal in an oven is a good idea. It may be possible but you would need to do it outside and still require a retort. The likelihood of a flare up is very huge and could destroy your oven. Doing it indoors would be asking for trouble.
Mumbles Posted October 4, 2016 Posted October 4, 2016 I have made small batches of charcoal on an electric hot plate before. The charcoal was good, but it took several hours to fully cook even for very small batches. I don't really think of it as a feasible method. Doing it in over a small fire is best so you get heat all around the retort. TLUD is another popular technique, and it is quite quick. As NeighborJ said, it goes without saying that this shouldn't be done indoors under any circumstances The gases that come off while cooking are toxic, flammable, and pretty irritating.
Merlin Posted October 4, 2016 Posted October 4, 2016 At first I bought charcoal. Not real practical as you need fast for BP and pine for sparks in some comps and plain old commercial AF in other applications. So I began to retort a gallon paint can then used a 5 gal retort. But for a heat source a large propane burner and a lot of expensive propane. I would have to burn for about a hour at full on-line a lot of propane. I couldn't comprehend how a TLUD worked to make charcoal but I finally gave in and made one and I have no special skills at all building things. A 5 gal bucket and a lid with simple 6" stove pipe and another solid lid to seal at end of burn. I lie not 5 gal of excellent ERC pet bedding in 10-12 minutes and no fuel to buy!! Then I split some white pine boards filled the TLUD and to my surprise in 20 minutes done. Extinguished with water at end of burn and spread out to dry in sun. Excellent charcoal!You CAN build TLUD easily and have a endless supply of custom charcoal. Where you live there are bound to be suitable wood to use and it produces very little smoke. TLUD are used world over for cook stoves and making biochar. It is the way to go!
schroedinger Posted October 6, 2016 Posted October 6, 2016 Yes you can make superior charcoal in an electric oven, because you have a really good temperature controll, but for real application you have several drawbacks, first aou need an oven that can cook 400ºC over a long time. Most ovens with these temperatures are quite small, most TLUD's are of bigger sizes. Then you havento pay for electricity and the process takes several hours. A 5 gallon TLUD take 30 min for shaving or 2 hours for pellets, the charcoal at 400ºC took nearly 15 hours. The resulting charcoal is of nearly the same quality (i got 0.2s more flight time on a test)0, compared to the average of TLUD batches). So it just isn't worth it. Also a TLUD cooker cost nothing if you got a couple old cans. For Glitter read up the Chapter of Shimizu FAST on firedust. D1, Firefly, Kamuro, Yankees and Winokur formulas are good glitters/flitters, but very different. E.g. D1 is a quite sparse golden glitter, Kamuro formulas are very bright and intense metall gliters.
Aspirina Posted October 8, 2016 Author Posted October 8, 2016 forgive for taking too long time to respond. I never did charcoal with TLUD system, I'll have to try it. so the electric stove I think it will not work. Schroedinger as always, very precise with your answers, I going to try to do some winokur and of course I will share with all of you thanks guys
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