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does anyone use freezer paper ?


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Posted

i use wax paper under my mesh screens

 

but can only find it in 12" wide rolls

 

& with 12" screens there's always something spilling over the edge

 

i found some freezer paper that's 18" wide, but it's plastic coated

 

can this plastic coating cause static

 

 

Posted

Jake,

It is no more likely to create static than waxed. They're both about the same, in terms of tribo-electric qualities.

 

If it's in contact with the screen, and the screen is grounded (say, with a clip to ground), there would be NO tendency for the paper to accumulate a charge, because it would drain off to the screen continually.

 

LLoyd

Posted

Static build-up is VERY dependent upon the humidity as well. If the humidity is high, nothing generates a static charge. But if it's extremely dry, be careful with things that are usually fairly safe

Posted

I use red rosin paper from the local building supply store. Comes in a 36" wide roll x 160' for about $12.

 

Kevin

Posted (edited)

You could just use a little masking tape and use 2 sheets in the meantime. Most regular masking tape is essentially just paper and glue. Some of the specialty tapes with designs and colors may contain a little polyester or vinyl, but for the most part you'll be able to easily identify these. Just plain ol white masking tape is what you you're looking for.

Edited by PhoenixRising
Posted

I've used freezer paper, waxed paper, butcher's paper, newspaper, and brown kraft paper equivalent of Nessalco's rosin paper. They've all worked fine for me, the wax/freezer paper left least dust behind, the giant 120-200' of kraft paper found in the painting section is the cheapest (except for the free leftover newspaper). I cannot comment on the safety of any of them.

Posted

In general, if there's any sort of "coating" in or on the paper, it's going to be MORE static-generating than without, because the resins used to waterproof or stiffen paper are usually very good insulators. If you'll recall basic science class a rod of rosin or amber (fossilized rosin) rubbed with a silken kerchief will generate static. Rosin is used in - um... - "red rosin paper". <G>

 

But... if you control your humidity properly, not a bit of this is much worry. In any RH greater than about 60%, you're really pretty safe. (The US Military goes even lower -- WAY lower. But I don't trust that. I think it was 'allowed' to increase production rates at the risk of ignitions.)

 

LLoyd

  • Like 1
Posted

Dew point 42F+ for me ;)

 

Never really thought about static and the rosin paper. Thanks for the reminder, Lloyd.

 

Kevin

Posted

In general, if there's any sort of "coating" in or on the paper, it's going to be MORE static-generating than without, because the resins used to waterproof or stiffen paper are usually very good insulators. If you'll recall basic science class a rod of rosin or amber (fossilized rosin) rubbed with a silken kerchief wsoakill generate static. Rosin is used in - um... - "red rosin paper". <G>

 

But... if you control your humidity properly, not a bit of this is much worry. In any RH greater than about 60%, you're really pretty safe. (The US Military goes even lower -- WAY lower. But I don't trust that. I think it was 'allowed' to increase production rates at the risk of ignitions.)

 

LLoyd

 

Lloyd, I'm curious as to what other comps other than flash would be dangerous on rosin paper. What else is very static sensitive? Is it safe for granulating BP? I've used it because it's free and doesn't soak up my moisture ergo nitrate if I add a tad too much liquid. It's so humid here right now you have to chew the air up before breathing but there's always winter....

Posted

Patrick,

Don't take what I said as a "caution". I was only describing the character of the materials.

 

If you are working in an atmosphere of enough humidity to be safe with flash (on _any_ surface), then the rosin paper is not a problem that will exacerbate that condition.

 

My only point was, it's MORE insulative (thus, more "static prone") than just 'plain paper' because of the rosin content. At 'marginal' humidities, it could become a problem.

 

LLoyd

Posted

Patrick,

Don't take what I said as a "caution". I was only describing the character of the materials.

 

If you are working in an atmosphere of enough humidity to be safe with flash (on _any_ surface), then the rosin paper is not a problem that will exacerbate that condition.

 

My only point was, it's MORE insulative (thus, more "static prone") than just 'plain paper' because of the rosin content. At 'marginal' humidities, it could become a problem.

 

LLoyd

 

No Lloyd, static is a winter problem here and I'll be doing a bit indoors (not flash) indoors I'm sure. I'd like to know if any common comps are more sensitive than others. I loooove my doggone fingers!

Posted

Patrick, a simple (and very low-cost) ultrasonic 'vaporizer', designed to put out "cool mist vapor" into a sick-room can solve your winter static problems once and for all!

 

Knowing your trade, I don't think it would be all THAT difficult to hook one up to a humidity sensor and a relay to turn the power on and off as necessary!

 

Hmmm????

 

LLoyd

Posted

Hehe, yeah Lloyd I have all that for the NEW shop but this is the shed at my house.

Posted

Patrick! The tool is the same for either environment! Just build it -- then move it to the "new shop" once you build THAT. <duh!>

 

LLoyd

Posted

Patrick! The tool is the same for either environment! Just build it -- then move it to the "new shop" once you build THAT. <duh!>

 

LLoyd

1500 square feet of difference in floor space!

Posted

So, you run the humidifier longer! I have an 8K sq.ft. barn. I have some "large areas" to condition (although it's not ALL enclosed). so... you just DO!

 

Which is more important, four extra bucks of electricity a month, or some reasonable semblance of safety? <shrug>

 

Lloyd

Posted

I remember one of the guys here simply gave the workshop floor a generous mopping and a 20 minute rest before proceeding. Very simple and I'd think eminently effective.

Posted

I remember one of the guys here simply gave the workshop floor a generous mopping and a 20 minute rest before proceeding. Very simple and I'd think eminently effective.

 

Brilliant!

Posted

That IS brilliant... if you can afford the time and physical effort.

 

If you must walk into your shop and start work, then you need to "control" the humdity, not merely 'mitigate' it.

 

So... you want to MOP, boy, or you want to make shells? Your choice! I can see a frustrated "swabbie" a mile away, Patrick!

 

Lloyd

Posted (edited)

Lloyd, you know I was a Marine. All you swabbies wanted to do was watch us "swab the decks". I ain't immune to swabbing floors and that's a brilliant suggestion!

 

My home shed floor is broomed concrete which will hold water for hours. I hose it down regularly but didn't make the connection.

Edited by OldMarine
Posted

BINGO! Now that the connection is made, you no longer HAVE a static problem in the shop, Bro!

 

Lloyd

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