Merlin Posted April 7, 2016 Posted April 7, 2016 (edited) I have read that adding mineral oil to BP helps it consolidate better and be more uniform and prevents stress cracks which lead to cato.My question is should you add mineral oil by dissolving it in lacquer thinner then wetting the BP and granulating or add mineral oil directly to the ball mill in the last 15 minutes of milling? The latter seems a little easier but seems the mineral oil would coat the ball mill and media and leave a big mess. I want to make end burners for use in estes models. Also, I want to press rather than ram these so I am wondering if any of you use the pressure gauges that fit in the press inline with the rocket tooling. Caleb and Wolter sell them- they are a bit pricey but adding a pressure gauge to the bottle jack directly isnt for me as I have close to zero mechanical skills. I know it is simple. Take down the jack, drain the fluid and drill and tap. I am not so good drilling straight with a hand drill. Edited April 7, 2016 by Merlin
OldMarine Posted April 7, 2016 Posted April 7, 2016 I can't comment as to the oil/BP treatment but I highly recommend Caleb's PtoF. It had a true 1" piston which simplifies calculations. I have a gauge on my press but...ya know...math.
Col Posted April 7, 2016 Posted April 7, 2016 (edited) mineral oil will slow the bp down, you shouldn`t need it or have any problem with consolidation when pressing You can knock up a P-to-F inside 10 minutes using a 10T short bodied hydraulic ram ($40) and a pressure gauge. Edited April 7, 2016 by Col
schroedinger Posted April 7, 2016 Posted April 7, 2016 For an end burner there is no reasonnto use mineral oil. If you use it, dissolve it in some acetone or other solvent. Then rice the fuel with it. Look over at the skylighter.com tutorials for how to construct the short bodied ram gauge. It's point and click.
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